Average labor rate for HVAC repair?
dusty1959
14 years ago
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zl700
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Summer is coming -- HVAC repair or replace?
Comments (12)Thanks all! I am learning a lot. The reason I am thinking it is coil that is leaking is because the AC guy who performed initial diagnostic last Spring used some kind of a device which looked to me like "electronic leak detector", according to the posted description. At this time, I don't have a reason to believe he did a bad job last year. He poked his instrument in different places. One of the places that (according to him) showed the "leak" was the coil (which was, by the way, located inside the furnace cabinet in the basement, not outside.) The reason I am not completely sure about the diagnostic is the following. He said that according to his instrument's reading the leak was pretty minor. That's probably why he recommended simply recharging puron. However, the puron he put back into the system apparently leaked out over the course of last summer. So maybe the leak at the coil was not so minor in the first place? Or it could be because there was more than one place where the system has a leak? Anyway, I am going to call a different company this time. Based on the info I have so far, the coil might be only part of the problem. That's why I try to keep an open mind and consider alternatives. Yes, I read that 16 SEER is a minimum rating to qualify for tax credit. My concern is that I already replaced the gas furnace not so long ago. Can I pair my furnace (Carrier 58CVA110-20) with another modern Carrier AC unit of 16 SEER or higher so that they work seamlessly together? If yes, what model would match my Carrier furnace? If a new (comprehensive) test confirms that the leaking coil is the only problem, how much I should be prepared to spend on fixing it? The company that quoted me the price of ~$1600 last Fall told me that they would have to first evacuate the puron from the system (which is expensive), then replace the coil, and then put another load of puron into the system. That's why it is so expensive, they told me. Does it sound right? I've seen quotes for complete AC system installs at around $6K. Considering what I have to spend on diagnostics and repairs anyway, plus accounting for $1500 tax credit, I figured I will end up only couple of $thousands short of being able to replace the whole AC system... Or am I missing something and the difference between repairs and replacement is actually a lot more?...See MoreHelp with HVAC estimates
Comments (2)Here are the load calculations that I did on loadcalc.net (thanks for the tip, garden webber) for a Below Average construction regarding tightness (R30 in attic, brick exterior walls w/o insulation, single pane windows with storms) Total BTU's Cooling: 37006 Total BTU's Heating: 43690 Sensible Load: 33364 Laten Load: 3642 See original posting on 9/6/12 for estimates received, I am also waiting for an American Standard certified installer for a quote, any recommendations are appreciate. My house always smells stale and I noticed there are air filtrations system, however, I am on a budget and don't plan to stay in the house more than three years. Thanks in advance for any suggestions....See MoreI'm back. This time better prepared. Please help me choose HVAC.
Comments (9)Welcome back April. I am glad to see you have done some more homework. I own Carrier Infinity equipment, so I know it will keep you comfortable in the cold Michigan winters. I have heard mixed opinions about Lennox, but I have no direct experience. I am going assume Contractor #3 is a competent installer and he has sized your equipment properly. I am glad to see he is offering the Carrier rebates. Here are my comments for the Contractor #3 options: Furnaces: Option 1: I would not recommend an 80% AFUE furnace for your winters. Option 2: This is the two-stage Infinity furnace. It is a good furace and will work with the Infinity controller. Option 3: For $300 more you get a three-stage furnace. This would be my recommendation with the Infinity controller. Air Conditioning: Option 1: This is a single stage compressor. I think 4 tons is oversized for your climate. Option 2: This is the two-stage compressor. This is the AC to get if you have humid summers. This AC will work with the Infinity controller. I believe this AC with the 58MVC furnace will qualify for the $1000 Carrier rebate. Option 3: This AC in my opinion is over kill for your climate. It is not worth the money. Ask contractor #3 how much a 10 Carrier labor warranty would cost. You should consider getting this warranty for peace of mind for the next 10 years. I would also want to upgrade to a 4 inch media filter. This should not be a costly upgrade assuming you have to room to fit it. You should also qualify for the $500 tax credit if you haven't already used it....See MoreHelp with Replacement HVAC Proposals
Comments (23)Tigerdunes brought up demand defrost versus timed defrost. For the past 18 years, I have dealt with my Lennox defrost scheme. The only times I heard it go into defrost mode were when the unit was first running in heat mode. The unit would switch over from heat to defrost, the defrost cycle would complete and everything would turn off. I never heard it run a defrost cycle when it was not first heating. I rarely heard it go into defrost. I never heard it defrost on a fixed cycle such as every 90 minutes. Am I to understand that a Carrier will just go into defrost mode every X minutes whether it needs it or not and is not in a heating cycle; just turn on and defrost itself? I found this information in the Carrier 25HNB6 heat pump installation instructions: AUTO defrost adjusts the defrost interval time based on the last defrost time as follows: When defrost time When defrost time 3-5 minutes, the next defrost interval=90 minutes. When defrost time 5-7 minutes, the next defrost interval=60 minutes. When defrost time >7 minutes, the next defrost interval=30 minutes. The control board accumulates compressor run time. As the accumulated run time approaches the selected defrost interval time, the control board monitors the coil temperature sensor for a defrost demand. If a defrost demand exists, a defrost cycle will be initiated at the end of the selected time interval. A defrost demand exists when the coil temperature is at or below 32_F (0_C) for 4 minutes during the interval. From that description, if the time interval elapses and the coil is not at 32 degress, then no defrost will take place. That, to me, sounds like a form of demand defrost. Is Baldloonie saying that the coil could be at 32 degrees or less without frost and, therefore, a defrost cycle would be unnecessary? What kind of ambient sensor detects presence or absence of frost? Neohioheatpump asked, "When your old A/C would run, was it producing water?" It was producing water and I saw it dripping from the condensate drain. One weekend I went out of town and came back to find water on the floor around the return box that the fan coil sits on. I opened up the access and found the interior insulation of that box soaked. Turns out the condensate line was plugged. Took awhile for that to dry out. On the other hand, this past summer I did not see water dripping from the condensate drain. The drain line was not plugged and the drip pan seemed dry. I thought it was because I had dried out the air so much with the two dehumidifiers that there wasn't enough remaining for the A/C to remove. Cooling was normal. Running the fan on manual started with the installation of the Lennox and an associated Honeywell Electronic Air Cleaner. The house suddenly became dusty and I blamed the EAC for not doing its job. The Honeywell zone representative came to my house, sized up the situation, and told me to run the fan on manual so that the dust would remain suspended in the air and available to be captured by the EAC. I did that and it was of no help for the dust situation but it did help reduce the temperature differential between the first and second floors during cooling so I kept doing it as a matter of routine. Thus, I cannot say that not running the fan reduced the humidity. Though I complained about humidity, the heat pump contractor never told me that I was humidifying the house by running the fan (on orders from the Honeywell rep). I will continue to run at least one dehumidifier in the completely below grade basement during the summer because I want that area to be warm and dry to avoid mold and mildew. I've been in the basements of other houses in the area that don't use dehumidifiers and they stink. Mike Home said, "You stated in an earlier post that you run the fan in the summer because the upper floor is 2-3 degrees hotter than the lower floor. I think adding the attic insulation will help this." I agree that adding attic insulation could help. But, having a Dutch Colonial house with a barn-like roof that is covered in dark shingles on the east and west sides causes a lot of heat gain through the second floor walls. I'm not keen on opening the walls to determine the amount of insulation or add to it. Changing to a light-colored roof would make the house look out of character with the neighborhood. There are newer shingles that reject heat gain that I will investigate. Mike Home also said, "You could also zone the first and second floors, but this is expensive and probably not feasible with your current duct work." There is but one main feed duct and it runs through the basement. There is no way to segregate the room feeds in this scheme without doing each one individually. I'll leave that expense to the next owner....See Moremaryland_irisman
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