I have had a Cleaneffects since Oct 2007. I am very disappointed in its effectiveness. It was recommended highly by Consumers Reports at the time. They don�t recommend it that highly any more. We have severe respiratory problems here, so I was anxious to get it. I am embarrassed to admit that I was such a sucker, but hopefully it will help someone else. I was told by two different installers that the filter wouldn�t work with my old furnace, and modifying the furnace to make it work would cost more than a new furnace. I got the new furnace (Trane) even though my old one worked well, and it wound up costing me about $7000 to get both the furnace and the Cleaneffects filter. It would have been worth every penny if the filter had performed as Consumers Reports claimed, but it hasn�t even come close. I still had a couple of old room filters around and one night my wife got so stuffed up that she decided to pull one out and put it in the bedroom. It cleared her up right away. I bought a couple more room filters and we are using them extensively now. The air is much cleaner and the room filters cost a lot less than the whole-house system. I have maintained the system with diligence and in accordance with the manual, so those who say that system failures are due to laziness of the maintainer are wrong in this case. Here is why I think many users, such as me, are disappointed: When the contractors talk about how these things work, they say that enough air moves through the filter to account for changing all the air in the room several times a day. That is true, but it is misleading. If all the air in each room went through the filter even once a day, I believe the system would work pretty well. But in reality most of the air in any room takes the shortest path from the furnace output to the furnace intake. Some of the air gets exchanged (and therefore cleaned) over and over again, but most of the air remains undisturbed and un-cleaned. In my home, furnace outlets are near the ceiling as are the furnace intakes. So air near the floor doesn�t get churned up and seldom gets into the filter. A small room filter cleans the air near it, so the best solution is lots of small room air filters. In other words, a furnace-mounted whole house system is a flawed concept. In order for the system to work properly the furnace fan would have to run constantly at high speed and the house ducting would have to be designed so that the air will always be well-mixed. Air can�t be cleaned by the main filter if it never gets into it. You can make it work better with a lot of small fans, but if you are going to do that you might as well use small room filters. I wish Consumer is Reports had done a better job of reviewing this a few years ago, and I wish I had applied a little more common sense to my purchasing decision. It is true that I have a much better furnace now and possibly the best air cleaner I can get using a furnace-mounted system. That is looking at the bright side, but I often think about how I could have used that $7000 for other things. It was an expensive lesson.

Are you sure you have Andersen windows to begin with? I was not aware of any situations where Caradco (now Jeld-Wen) was making anything for Andersen. It is likely that you just have the Caradco window. In terms of what you have in aggregate efficiency, it is probably about a R-Value of 1 - 1.25. If your existing windows where properly sealed, relatively airtight, and not rotting, there would be zero rationale from the standpoint of energy savings to replace them with new insulated unit. Just improving the R-value/U-Factor in that window from and R-1/1.5 to an R-4/5 would take decades to payback and any benefits for solar control could more cheaply be supplied via applied films. In terms of what we want for this region, you want the lowest U-Factor you can get in any application. Whether you are a triple pane candidate depends largely on whether or not you are okay with the slightly darker window. If you were wanting to take advantage of the passive solar, you could go with a standard 2-coat low-e on the South facing windows and leave the triple pane to the other elevations. In a coastal application, the larger impact on efficiency (if you are comparing two similarly outfitted windows with Low-e) is going to be on air-tightness. That applies to how the window was both installed and how tight the window is. When we talk to clients about windows, we usually stick to the 4 aspects of: - Thermal resistance (U-factor) - Air Tightness (Air infiltration) - Visible light (VT numbers and profile thickness) - Warranty Feel free to ping me with any other questions.

Hi everyone, Thanks for the responses. It's been more than four months since my original query so I thought I'd post an update. After talking with several other contractors and vendors, we decided that going with replacement windows was clearly the wrong choice, so we switched contractors to someone with more large-scale remodeling experience and went with new construction windows. In the end we chose Anderson 400s and used Azek trim on the outside. The old windows came out and we found some damage to the underlying sheathing and framing, but not too much. The new windows were installed and insulated properly and the difference is huge. While we were at it we also replaced most of the edge and corner trim and drip caps on the house as this was rotting off as well. The project is taking a lot longer (we're hopefully wrapping up this week) and is costing a lot more than we thought, but I'm glad we caught this when we did as the damage would have been a lot worse if we had waited. Interestingly, the cost of the new construction windows was actually less than the replacement windows. The labor was more, of course, but we were already being forced to replace the rotting exterior trim so that was all equal. We did have to replace the interior trim, which was not inexpensive, but in the end the project wound up costing the same because the windows were less expensive. The difference in the new trim is amazing- it's nice to have real window sills and stools, with a less generic casing around them. The question of new windows vs. restoration was never an issue- the old windows (only 18 years old) were of poor quality, poorly installed, and leaked cold air to the point that we had to install plastic sheeting over the openings in the winter. Also, many of the window sills, mullions, and jams were rotting, so the amount of work to restore the existing windows would have been huge, We were going with new windows one way or the other. Thanks again for your help, Josh

There are new ducts in the 700sf addition, but the existing HVAC unit was over-sized for the original old house, so the installer said I don't need to replace it. There are replacement ducts for the old kitchen (will be a den), dining room and two upstairs bedrooms where I moved walls. Most of the supply ducts are on the interior walls, but the two old air returns in the floor are under windows. Everything in my renovation/addition is permitted by the city and inspections have all passed. They also inspect the "old" part as it isn't grandfathered in when doing a renovation of this size. I've replaced any electrical and plumbing that weren't up to today's code. The furnace is located in the basement that has brick walls and a concrete floor, but there is also 21 foot section that is chest high that is open to the dirt floor crawlspace. 6 mil plastic is being added to cover the dirt. R-15 insulation was added since I wrote this and it seems to be helping. All window sashes have been replaced with new energy-efficient wood sashes (had to be custom made to fit the old window openings). Thanks!