> Does Miele have the same plug as the standard US 240V outlet? The later Miele 240V washers have a plug that fits into a four-prong 240V electric dryer outlet (the plug is called a NEMA 14-30P, the outlet NEMA 14-30R). The outlet will be fused at 30 amps though and the washer really should be limited to 15 amps. This can be done by swapping out the circuit breaker, by adding a fuse or circuit breaker inline (between the washer plug and the outlet), by using Miele's easy installation kit, or by pairing it with a Bosch or Asko dryer that has a fused 15 amp outlet on the back, allowing both machines to be powered by your existing dryer outlet (but note that you may need to change or adapt the plug on your washer if you go the last route). Older Miele washers apparently used a smaller 20-amp plug (14-20P) but these seem to be less common. What will you use for a dryer? Also note that older U.S. homes often have the old ungrounded 3-prong dryer outlets rather than the normal 4-prong type. Personally, unless you don't have the extra 4" of depth, I prefer the 1986 to the 1918 - it holds 20% more laundry, and for some reason can heat water up to 190°F rather than 170°. The 1918 does have an option for faster spin speed (1600 rpm vs. 1200) for better water extraction and less time and energy use in the dryer, since the same motor is used on both machines and it can spin a smaller, lighter tub faster. If you don't need the extra capacity, the 1918 may be better for you - you also won't have to reach quite as far into the tub to get that last sock at the back. Otherwise, the two machines are essentially the same. Of course you have no way of knowing if anyone will have a W1918 for sale anytime soon, or if anyone who does will ask a reasonable price. See also this thread which has alot of info about plug/outlet issues (and lots of unrelated stuff but you can sift through it).

I am not going to tell anyone what to buy. We all have different situations. Many on this forum are having good success with the 4840. It seems like if you need the jumbo capacity then it would be OK and you can get the heater to work just not on normal. I think older Whirlpools don't use their heater on normal either. I don't need a washer the size of a house. I separate clothes by fabric and color especially since higher temps can remove dyes faster, and will also cause anything with spandex to quickly deteriorate. I do wash comforters in my 6K with no problem but that depends on the bulkiness of comforters. So in the future if I need a new comforter I won't buy a bulky one. The 5 and 6k machines have been in use for many years in the U.S.A and all over the world, but it is only here in the U.S.A that we feel that things must be big to get things done. I understand the idea that 20 sets of jeans can be washed at one time. I also understand that folks want to wash comforters, but I also find that I can wash larger loads in my 6K machine than I could in my super capacity top loader and they get cleaner. So I guess it depends on what your needs are. If you sort your laundry are you going to wash the equivalent of 20 pairs of jeans in each load? Here's my trick. If I have a particularly large load, one with heavy soil, I will use the extended cycle which washes and rinses longer. Otherwise I don't need extended; things get clean with the regular shorter cycle. If the load is large and dirty and can take higher heat I use the regular short cycle and increase the temperature. if the load is small the machine reduces the cycle times and everything still gets clean. so there are a lot of variable you can play around with the achieve the result you want. The new 5.5K washers are 120V so that it will be easier for folks to install them..but they don't heat to 200F either. Will the older 220V models continue to be sold or phased out? I paid $75 to have the 220V line run from the electric box to the machine. Do you already have 220V? Are you willing to pay for it to be installed? I have not needed to use LCB since having my FL. Are you willing to LCB for heavy stains? Regular use of LCB is not recommended (or needed for cleaning) for the smaller ones because I think they contain a SS outer drum while the newer units do not. Does this matter to you? This is a new model only released to the U.S.A. I am sure Miele does a good job of production and testing but do you want to buy version one of anything or would be be better to wait for release two? Sure incremental changes have been made to the smaller units but the basics and footprint have not changed that much so they must be on version 150. The smaller previous miele models contain some of the same cycles the 4840 does, difference is they are smaller, use 220V and can heat the water hotter and faster. So like I mentioned every ones situation will be different. For me - I have had my washer(W1986) wince 2003 and there is nothing wrong with it. So I don't need a washer and plan to keep this one and have it repaired as needed for as long as possible. I do like having the option of higher temps, higher rinse levels and water consumption if I want it. This is a minor thing but I like the heavy SS door and lock on my machine too. Situations will vary. Do what is right for you.

What DW did the new Miele replaced. For example, on the other former 2 Mieles's in the same cavity, the holes were exactly the same spot on it's new replacement. On the new Miele replacement, the holes were smidge off. I can't recall if I ended up scewing into `new holes~ or did I tweak the angle and uses some toothpicks in the old holes to make it work... At the end of the day, as long as the machine is level , and with door on the correct plane both in Hortizonal/Vertical and Flush, those screws we speak about are just retainers, per-se The screws are not that long. I would say around 3/4 or 1" in length. It's not rocket scientist. With the DW level and flush, it should not move already with it's weight. The screws are there just to help keep the unit from ~walking~ due to vibration/in use, etc. CJ. Are you DIY handy ? If so, I would attempt to *reinstall* it yourself if a option. More attention to details than a installer possibly. It's really that simple. Level it out. Make sure front panel dool looks level against the 2 sides of te adjacent cabinetry. Open DW door to test level height. Then put the sidescrews in..

We bought a new Steam Combi Oven from Miele, just delivered and we removed our old oven. We paid for Miele installation but we found out the old oven was wired directly in the electrical box, new Miele oven uses a NEMA plug. Do I have to pay extra for Miele installation for electrical work? Will they do the work the same day? The salesperson never told us what's included or not included. Much appreciate any information, thanks.