Before you do anything......check out this link. The guy has the part I think (not sure) you need. He has excellent feedback and will answer questions. I think this part can be easily installed yourself through the top of the machine

Here is a link that might be useful: Duet link

Mark - Thank you! I did contact him and he said he *thought* he could fix it and offered to look at it for free, which I thought was really great service. I really needed this fixed quickly, though, so I ended up ordering the part from Appliance Repair Pros on Tuesday for $182. It got here today and 20 minutes after I took off the top of the washer it was working properly again. I never would have thought to just order the part myself without reading your post, though, so THANKS! You saved me $200!

Dh couldn't believe that I passed up his offer to get a brand new washer. I am just so relieved to know why all of my dark clothes were running and fading. I never noticed that the water was getting hot on the cold cycle because I only very occasionally throw something else in there after the cycle has started, and usually before the water has a chance to get hot. I kept thinking it was my detergent causing all of the fading and color running.

You're Welcome! I wasn't sure until I re read your original post. It was the MCU and not the CCU....Oh well, glad you figured it out and ordered the part and did it yourself. I watched the repair guy replace my board a long time ago and it was a snap....I said to myself then and there that if I ever get electrical problems with my machine, I will do that myself......Now, if the bearings go or something like that, it's a different story!

Mark - no, it actually was the CCU. I used the wrong term in my OP, but you linked to exactly the right part. It was really ridiculously easy to replace. You're right, though, I would NOT tackle bearings!

Well, it seems that the new CCU didn't really fix the issue. When I use the cold cycle, the water starts out cold, but gradually turns hot during the wash cycle. I have a friend who says that a repair tech told her that it's normal for a Duet to add hot water to the cold cycle if the water is too cold, but that seems odd to me. The clothes feel warm when I pause the cycle.

I'm frustrated! Does anyone have any insight?

Well........from what I understand, if you select COLD, it's NOT tap cold, but the machine mixes warm water with the cold *if the cold water is frigid* because the cold water can only be so cold or the detergent wont work properly.......Still, it shouldn't heat the water AT ALL unless you have it set to HOT water. Odd! I've never tested this because I rarely use the cold setting. You're sure your hot/cold hoses are not hooked up wrong? That happens a LOT ......People hook the hoses to the wrong connections.

Okay, I think I have a better understanding now. I have verified in the past that the hoses are hooked up correctly, btw.

I just did a test with all 3 selections. When I select COLD, the water runs frigid for about a minute and then hot water starts being added. When the washer stopped filling and started tumbling, I paused it and opened the door. The water in the drum wasn't *cold*, but it wasn't too warm. When I did the test on WARM, the water started out warm and then hot water came on at the end. The water in the drum was warmer than on the COLD test. On the HOT cycle, the machine only filled with hot water. I have to say, though, that I understand the value of an onboard heater now, since the water in the drum didn't feel really hot, just hotter than the other 2 cycles. So, I guess it's working as it was intended to work.

Honestly, I was used to my old top loader. When you selected cold, it ran cold straight out of the tap.

Yes, it is working as intended, UNLESS when you select cold and the washer is slowly heating the water as it washes the clothes. I don't think that's normal. Not sure if you were intimating that's what it was doing or not...

I have been frustrated with this issue with my Duet for quite a while. The trouble is that to bring the cold water to temp it adds hot, just by pouring it straight on the clothes (through the detergent inlet) with no mixing first. I live in New England and so the cold water is icy cold, but my hot water is super hot. I keep shrinking clothing I wash in COLD cycles! Turning off the hot line stalls the machine. The only way I can stop the problem is to turn off my boiler! This way my hot water isn't so hot, and I don't shrink my sweaters. If anyone has a solution on how to fix the trouble at the washer I would love to know.

If you have a Laundry Tub w/Faucet next to your Washer,
you could install one of these on the Faucet and adjust the Water temperature manually
with the Tub's Faucet Water Valves.
click on picture

I have the Duets and I am not getting them again. I think I'm going back to a simple top loader.

Keadog - I'm so glad I'm not the only crazy person. I think I reached my last straw yesterday with my Duet. I washed 2 Boden sweaters that I paid $90 EACH for on the handwash cycle, which should be cold only. They both shrunk. A LOT. Frankly, the water that end up in the drum on the WARM wash is actually cooler than the water in the drum on the cold cycle.

regus - I don't have a laundry sink next to my washer, so unfortunately I don't think that solution will work for me. Thanks, though!

Sandy - dh has given me the green light to replace my washer and I'm now trying to decide what to do. I'm leaning toward an HE top loader, but I am tempted to just pick up a super capacity standard top loader and call it a day!

Now the question is, what do I do with my Duet? I would feel badly selling it unless I disclosed the issue.

I went into Lowe's today and purchased a bare bones top loader washer and dryer. I wasn't going to get another Whirlpool, but I've gotten to know and trust a nice lady that works there, and she said she has had great feedback on this model....including from a relative who normally buys the most expensive bells and whistles of everything. I don't recall the whole model number, but it had the numbers 5300 in it. They had to order me a set because they sold out, but will be delivered in a week. Hopefully, I can keep the Duet limping along. The nice part? Both the washer and dryer are less than the cost of a front load washer alone. If they last only 5 years I won't be as torked.

I didn't want a computer board, and I wanted to be able to select my own water levels. I don't waste water and have enough sense to wash my clothes without a computer. Any repairs on this machine should be simple.

I found someone who wants my Duet washer and dryer and I am giving it to them. They understand that they will need either a computer board and/or motor for the washer. I'm guessing a motor. The dryer still works fine. I didn't feel right trying to sell them.

If I find that I can't fit a quilt in the TL washer, I MAY purchase an extremely cheap front load washer and set it up in the barn. At least it would have a new warranty and only be used sometimes (only for our quilts or mattress pads). I don't know how good they are, but there was a Frigidaire FL for $399. It may be junk. I wouldn't want it for everyday, but for what I need it for, it might be fine. It's cheaper than fixing the Duet.

Yes. The ATC (automatic temperature control) is an issue for some people. It mixes warm with cold to try to get the right "cold" temperature; you're not getting frigid TAP cold water. I don't have any delicates so I RARELY use the delicate cycle. I think I used it once for a CPAP machine head strap. I will say this, in the winter our water is FRIGID like river water here in Lexington KY.....when I use cold and open the door, the water doesn't feel warm AT ALL. It feels "cool"

My LG does the same thing. Cold is defined as 68F or there abouts. My tap water in the winter gets down into the 40s. The LG will add hot to keep it around 68F.

Warm is around 100f, hot around 120F. The internal heater comes on to maintain these temps during the wash cycle.

The washer uses a 'fuzzy' logic control to mix the temps. It has a harder time when the temperature extremes are far apart (like 35F cold and 160F hot).

Powers won't dissolve, chemicals won't be active at colder temperatures.