I second hvtech's recommendation of downloading specs and find out what may or may not fit without some carpentry and cabinet-making skills. IIRC, most of the "hating" about KA ovens was the problem with some pre-2012 units (both wall ovens and and ranges) that Whirlpool sold under its KA and Whirlpool Gold brands (and maybe Jenn Air, too). . Some owners (not all) found that using their oven's self-cleaning function could sometimes damage the controller board. Others found that self cleaning tripped an internal "over-temp" breaker that protected the circuit boards but which only could be re-set after disassembling the oven to get to it. My recollection is that WP installed a higher capacity circuit cooling fan starting with the 2012 models and that is supposed to have fixed the self-clean problem. FWIW, Consumer Reports performance testing of wall ovens currently gives highest marks to WP made ovens with a couple of GE models and a Bosch model also on the "recommended" list. Electrolux is a bit below CR's top tier ratings, but the membership discussions here have generally been positive and generally give higher marks than CR's testing. (The differing views are most likely due to differences in perspectives between CR and GWers rather than CR being deliberately and obtusely prejudiced against the brand or GWers being self-deluded victims of their own expensive tastes.) The most current CR membership surveys on product reliability (10,300 member responses on ovens) showed GE having a 7% problem rate followed by Frigidaire at 8%, Kenmore at 9% (Kenmore ovens being made by for Sears by a variety of different manufacturers), and then Whirlpool and Kitchenaid at 10%. Apparently, not enough CR members bought other brands (Bosch, Electrolux, Wolf, DCS, F&P etc.) to generate meaningful reports on those other brands. CR's fine print also says "Differences of less than 3 points aren't meaningful." So, the data indicates that there is some durability differences between major brands, but not enough to matter. I'm not sure what you meant by "what's new and exiciting out there?" Do you have a budget or a price range? If you are you just looking for a single oven to slot into the existing space, there's not much new and exicting for electric wall ovens except the availability of widegets and apps for some. (Do you care about having a chicken nuggets function you can run from your iPhone?) If you would consider some additional carpentry, you might be looking to add a regular 30" oven along with, maybe, a "speed oven" or "combi-steam oven." Some folks call speed ovens "glorified microwaves" but others found them useful as a primary kitchen tool. Combi ovens (sometimes called "convection steam" or "combi-steam" ovens have gotten a boost in interest from being a favored tool of Modernist Cuisine and its readers . I think we've had a couple of threads in the last year or so where folks discussed whether to dispense with a regular oven. My recollection of the conclusions were: (a) combis are very expensive; (b) many people think the capacity is too small to be the only oven; and (c) only one model (Miele?) has a broiler. If you research this and find that your are interested in a combi unit but not addting a built-in one to a wall stack, you might want to check out the toaster-oven sized counertop versions from Electrolux and Cuisinart. The little, $299 Cuisinart CS)-300, seems to have developed a bit of a cult following among bread bakers and folks on the chowhound cookware forum and Consumer Reports seems to think it does a good job as a counter-top oven in addition to the steam functions..

I used my self-clean a few times in both upper and lower ovens without incident except for the porcelain flaw, which didn't affect performance or keep me from using it. I'm sorry for you that you've had this problem at all, and especially twice! In my case, a new oven was offered immediately after they received the report from the repair tech. The woman I worked with was very helpful. She also showed me patience and understanding when I initially had a negative reaction about the new oven style replacing the style I have. She also did research for me, getting information from marketing about the new oven since I couldn't see it in person. She answered emails quite quickly and once I made the decision about how I wanted things handled, I heard within an hour that the shipping and installation of my oven was arranged. Maybe you can email me and I can give you the name and email address of the person who was so helpful to me?

We bought a Samsung french door 29' and are waiting for Lowes to come back and get it. The door are curved and so are the handles which makes it stick out WAY too much in the kitchen. The leds are really cool UNTIL you put food on the shelves and then it looks like the lights are out. Kind of defeats the purpose of not having food rot in the back. Mechanically speaking we are not having problems. Just my FYI

Spin speed has nothing to do with tangling. When spinning, the clothes don't move in relation to each other, they're simply compressed against the basket. I have an F&P agitator-type machine (model IWL12), and always spin my sheets at the highest speed (1000 RPM). Slower spin can have an effect on reducing wrinkling, however. The standard cycle spins at 1000 RPM, so manually select a slower spin for wrinkle-sensitive items ... or use the Easy Iron cycle which is preset for 300 RPM spin and also uses the higher-fill "traditional" wash action. All the many options are there for a reason, to get better performance on specific kinds of loads. Loading methods are key to minimizing tangling. As Robyn outlines, do not pile clothes atop the 'agitator' or wrap them around it. Drop each item in as a bundle, spaced evenly around the basket, with smaller items as fillers between larger items. Pick up a fitted sheet, loosely gathered, and drop it in toward one side. Place a flat sheet at the other side, and fill the spaces between with pillow slips. And wash sheets as a separate load using the Sheets-specific cycle. For jeans, place three to four pairs around the basket, then another layer atop that, for six to eight pairs total. Maybe nine up to nine pairs (three layers of three) depending on how that works for you.