I forgot to mention that there are no warning beeps or unfamiliar noises but I'm pretty sure I can smell something which resembles an extra hot old iron that hasn't been used for ages. Pydies05, I am confused about your post because that seems to be your only post on this thread. Are you the OP under a different user-name? I recently had the won't-spin-or-drain problem on my 8-year-old Kenmore washer. There was a hot-metal smell which made me certain the motor had died. However, I looked online and found that cleaning the lid latch could solve the problem. So I dabbed at the lid latch with a Kleenex -- and also the hole the latch went into -- and then re-set the knob, and everything was fine!

Yes, this particular model number came out in 2014 but what really matters is the underlying design. Often they'll make minor aesthetic/interior improvements from year to year and change the model number. My fridge is the same basic design as this one. I've talked to repairmen who've had to repair multiple of the same Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE, Samsung, LG, etc. fridges for no cooling. This repairman's anecdotes, especially given that he works for GE and only sees their appliances, don't really say anything about its reliability compared to the competition. This experience certainly was terrible and I'm not trying to excuse that... just trying to convey to future readers that avoiding one particular brand won't really make you less likely to run into a situation like this. None of them are made like they used to, and there are instances of crappy service with all of them. The only way to statistically improve your chances of getting a good fridge is to buy a very basic, no-frills top mount with mechanical controls, and the only way to improve your chances of excellent customer service are to buy a SubZero.

Thanks Kudzu9. This disposal is a batch feed style, so is impossible to run unless the cover is on (that is actually the main reason why I have always chosen a batch feed style wherever I have lived), so I can't do your test. However, when you lift off the cover of a batch feed disposal, there is a half second in which you can still see the spin. The blades appear to be spinning, but it's hard to tell for certain. That is a good suggestion to call the company. I will do that. In any case, I have gotten 11 years of hard use out of this disposal, so I really cannot complain. It has performed so flawlessly until now, that my first impulse is to replace it with the exact same Waste King 9900TC. My friend has the Insinkerator 3/4 hp batch feed (the "Cover Control" model); my Waste King appears to be more powerful with more torque, and my disposal's chamber appears to be larger also, so I would prefer the Waste King. I am just concerned that now that the Waste Kings are made in China, the quality is not the same. However, the company is offering the same 10-year warranty on this model, so I would think they've kept the quality control; otherwise they would have decreased the warranty. Any input would be welcome.

The entire outer cabinet comes off (with the rear panel remaining standing in place). 1) Pull the machine forward from the wall a little so there's room for the console to swing back in Step 3. Unplug the power cord. 2) Remove the two screws at the front lower corners of the control console. 3) Pull the console slightly forward, then swing it upwards and back. It's hinged at the upper rear corners and should stay up ... although sometimes the plastic hinges break so be careful of that. 4) Disconnect the lid switch harness where it plugs into the top under the console. 5) Use a large flat screwdriver to remove the two (usually gold colored) spring clips that anchor the top to the rear panel. 6) Open the lid, grasp at the front of the loading port and swing the cabinet forward and off the base. The cabinet is a bit flimsy/flexible when not anchored to the base. 7) Set the cabinet aside so you can get under it to access the lid switch. Reverse all that to reassemble. Place the lower front edge of the cabinet under the front lip of the base (may need to give a slight kick with your knee) and set it down into place. There are two tabs at the rear corners of the base that fit into slots in the edge of the cabinet to help stabilize the sides. Sometimes it's a bit tricky to get that aligned. Don't forget to connect the lid switch harness plug.