I think it's your lid switch that's gone bad. It looks to see if the lid switch is indicating the door is shut before it will start the spin cycle. If the switch is bad and it thinks the door is open the spin will not work.

Thanks Jakvis - I think I am going to unplug from the wall power, open her up qnd cut out the switch and bypass it by wiring the 2 wires together. Since I do not have any sm children around, it would be ok for the spin cycle to take place while lid is open - thanks again

Is water left in the machine ... didn't drain?

Yes, first thing to check is the lid switch. There's a striker at the right edge of the lid that presses through a hole onto a switch tab under the top.

First, confirm that the striker isn't broken off.

Next, check if you can see the switch tab in the hole. Press down into it with a pen or pencil, you should hear the switch click accordingly. If not, the switch may be broken. Not unusual that they break with age, or if a grossly-unbalance load causes the tub to bounce upwards and hit the switch. Note that the tab can break, or the body of the switch can crack open ... so don't reach under the top to grope for it UNLESS THE MACHINE IS UNPLUGGED FROM POWER.

If the switch is OK, then there could be a problem with the motor (burned wire or motor gone bad) or the timer. The motor reverses for drain/spin ... so it can possibly run forward for agitation and not reverse. (The lid switch is in the reverse-electric circuit between the timer and motor which is why it will fill and agitate but not drain/spin if the switch is bad.)

BTW, your model number indicates 1994 market year and serial indicates manufacture in 34th week of 1994 ... as per your noted purchase date.

dadoes, great comments and feedback...I will check the basics first as you stated...I should be back out there tomorrow and will post back...

I pulled all the clothes out and removed all the water except for what could not be scooped out, then I unplugged it. And yes, I ALWAYS unplugg everything I work on or turnoff breaker when working w circuits...I should be able to post back tomorrow night- thanks again, tstex

I'm only writing this so my OCD doesn't give me an panic attack :-p

Do not leave a safety device disabled. It's ok for testing but don't leave it bypassed.

thanks jakvis - I'll take a pic of the part and then come back and source it - it seems a unoversal part is only $5-6 so that's a no=brainer for the safety - thanks tstex

If it helps the part number for the switch should be PS334600. Before buying, test as you intended to do to verify it's the switch.

Thank you very much Jakvis. I'll post back after I perform the testing

I found the problem. The switch was broken off from the mount where the 2 screws secure it to the top of the washer on the right front under the lid. I will need to order the switch and figure out how to access the switch to remove and reinstall...Note, I've looked at 3-4 YouTube videos and none of them show anything like accessing the lid switch on my Whirlpool Washer Model LLR6144BW0. Any links would be greatly appreciated - Thank you very much. tstex

The entire outer cabinet comes off (with the rear panel remaining standing in place).

1) Pull the machine forward from the wall a little so there's room for the console to swing back in Step 3. Unplug the power cord.

2) Remove the two screws at the front lower corners of the control console.

3) Pull the console slightly forward, then swing it upwards and back. It's hinged at the upper rear corners and should stay up ... although sometimes the plastic hinges break so be careful of that.

4) Disconnect the lid switch harness where it plugs into the top under the console.

5) Use a large flat screwdriver to remove the two (usually gold colored) spring clips that anchor the top to the rear panel.

6) Open the lid, grasp at the front of the loading port and swing the cabinet forward and off the base. The cabinet is a bit flimsy/flexible when not anchored to the base.

7) Set the cabinet aside so you can get under it to access the lid switch.

Reverse all that to reassemble. Place the lower front edge of the cabinet under the front lip of the base (may need to give a slight kick with your knee) and set it down into place. There are two tabs at the rear corners of the base that fit into slots in the edge of the cabinet to help stabilize the sides. Sometimes it's a bit tricky to get that aligned. Don't forget to connect the lid switch harness plug.

Thank you VERY much dadoes...I will order part and give this a try / excellent forum !

Dados, I'm out here now and looking at your instructions, it says "the outer entire cabinet comes off". How do I properly remove it/

next, any idea on how to remove the gold spring clips? I looked on line for removal videos and none are like my model / thank upu very much !!

Thank you very much Jakvis...I was finally able to figure out how to pop the clips.

The lid switch screws holes cracked in half:. See pic - once I got the clips out, I was home free - it's fixed and works great / thank you all for your help !! This was a success DIY w your help tstex

Glad to hear it. Dadoes and I will send our bills seperately ;-)

Pls use PO 0001 & PO 0002 and send to ts@tex.com lol