Thanks all for posting. I have stalled out on the remodel but will be back in action this next week when my carpenter can start. I have a new carpenter coming to appraise the progress of the job and start next week. Long story, but this new carpenter is actually the one I wanted originally but not unavailable so went with someone else (who didn't work out). Here is a plan view as asked for, and an elevation. The two walls that create the corner where the W/D sit are both load bearing walls. The blue square in upper left corner is the Miele W/D stack. The gray square to the right of W/D is the cabinetry and where I plan to access the shut off valve and dryer venting. These utilities will be in the back wall accessible through the shelving inside the cabinet: This elevation shows cabinets to the right of the W/D and will have the shut off valve inside the cabinet, reachable through the shelving. This elevation rendition is not current. Instead, I plan to have doors above counter height, and have the below counter area open, without a door: Shut off Valve: I have a manual shut off valve with the drain hole (all in one box) mounted by the plumber. This will be easily accessible from the side of the set, inside the cabinet. Hoses: I have the Floodchek hoses on site and ready for installation. Overflow Pan: I was thinking of a overflow pan such as this one I have linked below. It has a 5 gal capacity and has a 24x24 outside dimension. Anti-Vibration: I still have not made a platform for the set but was thinking of 2 plywood 3/4" sheets with a sandwiched mass loaded vinyl sheet in between as recommended by Mongoct on the bathroom forum. Otherwise the anti-vibration feet that Deke mentions might work and a lot less trouble. I have see some anti-vibration feet on the Grainger web site for heavy machinery. I might try those. Here is a link: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/K-16/N-/No-0/Ntt-anti+vibration+pads?Ndr=textsearchesinbase%2Btrue&sst=subset Dryer Venting: I have been planning to bring it out the right side of the set, and accessible in the back of the cabinet, for cleaning ease. I may not be able to place it in the wall as the studs are in the way of the joist space for the ducting. If I can have the carpenter frame out the stud wall for a dryer vent I will. I want ridged venting, and have it accessible to the side of the dryer (not behind the dryer). If this can't be done within the wall space, I will have to put a hole in the floor in front of the wall for the venting, concealing it behind the cabinet. though this will make it vulnerable to bumping with the laundry basket that I plan to keep in the lower area below the counter. My machines are at the warehouse waiting. Any comments or recommendations are welcome! Thanks again :) Here is a link that might be useful: slide-n-fold pan

I have a LG washer/dryer model WM3360HVCA (washer) with matching dryer. I love them, or rather I should say I love it since I only have the washer hooked up. I'm planning to stack them in a closet which I'll have to spend money to have a new outlet put in and front of the closet expanded out. It washes very well, it's gotten out stains that were in some clothes that had been washed at a commercial laundromat. I purchased these last year so they don't have the shortened cycles like the newer ones but I don't mind since I no longer work and I have a lot of time on my hands but generally the cycles can range anywhere from 45 mins up to 2 hours depending on wash cycle selections and added selections like pre-wash, extra rinse and spin cycle. There is a speed wash selection but I'm yet to use it. They come in all the colors you mentioned, I have have the Titanium (gray) but red will cost you more. I'm in NYC so the washer is on a wooden floor, there is very little vibration I can feel it only if I'm standing directly in front, but as long as you make sure your washer is level the less vibration. The only times I've experienced any large amount of vibration was due to having bulky items in when spinning and also the fact I didn't have the machine very level and I corrected that. I also make sure I select the Bulky/Large cycle selection and it spins no higher than medium for bulky items. There are 5 spin options, extra high, high, medium, low, and no spin. It has a total of 12 wash cycle selections including Sanitary which is for heavily soiled items that you can wash on high heat being that is the NY area that really comes in handy in case of bed bugs. There's an Allergiene cycle that you can use steam heat to really remove those allergens from your bedding and clothing, I like this feature too since I have allergies and asthma. O'k, o'k I know I sound like a commercial but I really do like doing laundry now.lol I really like this machine. It's energy efficient. 100 kWh -- estimated yearly electricity use, $9 estimated yearly operating cost Dimensions: 77 1/2 inches high 27 inches in width 29 3/4 inches deep, + 4 inches needed for between machines and wall. Dryer can either be vented from the back or left side. The newer models really don't seem to have many differences other than instead of 4 buttons 3 buttons are on the front panel and they consolidated another feature somewhere else, that's the models that are equivalent to the ones I have but the models with the square doors are the ones that have the shortened wash feature and are higher in price. A while back someone had a video up of an Electrolux. I was impressed by how it didn't move at all during the spin cycle. Before I got the LG I looked at a few Electrolux, loved the blue color (my favorite color) but they seem to run larger than other washers/dryers and cost more. Hope I helped and didn't give you information overload.lol Oh and lastly I purchased mine from Best Buy, I didn't have any problems and I got them both on sale. Home Depot also carries LGs, best to watch out for the sales (usually around the holidays)and sometimes buying on-line may be cheaper. The dryer I purchased on Black Friday for almost half the price at Best Buy but Home Depot also offered the same deal.

Mari, I'm sorry I wasn't clear. I don't own a mechanical dryer, and I don't use any "fabric softeners"; liquid or sheets. We have naturally soft water here, so there's not much point. I've noticed most brands have come out with a "fragrance free" version, but IMHO, they're all still just oily chemicals designed to temporarily give your laundry a soft "hand", but over time, will ruin the fabric. I'm just an original Laundry Luddite with a serioulsy cheap, green streak. I'd hate to waste electricity to heat up (and then cool down) my clothing when I have 100 ft of perfectly good clothesline that can air dry everything but heavy comforters in about 20 minutes - for free. Our clothes smell fresh and clean without resorting to artifically scented (polluting) chemicals, and I get to enjoy the benefits of fresh air and a little exercise, so for me it's win/win. Still, I have a tidy little laundry space with a washing machine, and a place to put the "laundry aids" such as they are. (White vinegar, borax, a bottle of laundry detergent and clorox bleach, a box of baking soda, and a bottle of hydrogen peroxide.) I designed a fold up ironing board with a shelf to hold the iron and a spray bottle, but I have to wait to get the hot water heater moved before I can put it up. Still haven't made up my mind what color to paint the clothesline poles, but when I get it all done, I'll post pictures too. I know that not everyone can use a clothesline; some people are physically unable, some don't have access to a place to put one, some people live in restricted neighborhoods with anal retentive HOAs, and some live in areas with so much dust, grime and pollution their clothing wouldn't remain clean if they did hang it outside wet. What can I say? I'm one of the lucky ones. :^)

>>>I guess there is concern that if the floor flexes during the spin cycle, the stackable unit could topple over. From what I was told, sandiego_steve, the old ATE50s banged around something awful and would not maintain SQ's super-fast spin in many upstairs installs. My dealer said they'd had several returned because they couldn't be stabilized. (Oddly, when he sold me the ATE50, knowing it was for 2nd floor installation, he didn't mention this.) I went ballistic when I was told I was getting the new model because I'd planned the timing of my reno project specifically to avoid the new electronic controls. I ordered -- and paid in full -- for the ATE50 in late Nov. or early Dec. Because I was so pissed, my dealer then offered to sell me one of the returned units if I "insisted" but maintained he was doing me a favor by switching out the washers because the new one he was bringing me had dynamic stability. I tried to download the manuals right then, but no one had them uploaded yet, not even SQ. Then you guys here talked me down, and I felt better. THEN they hauled it up the stairs -- 800 pounds! -- installed it, ran a test load, handed me the manuals, and left. After I read the manuals and exploded, my dealer said he had been unaware it was for a second floor install, but those words all over our email chain, and I had specifically asked more than once about the ATE50's stability upstairs. He was my contractor's vendor of choice, and they worked hand in glove on the whole project, so while he may have "forgotten," he certainly knew. And if he had "forgotten" then why the hoo-ha about switching out the units to avoid stability issues? But like I said, the thing does not so much as twitch. It is more stable than the 20-year old convention kenmore TLs it replaced. They may have needed those weasel words for the ATE50, but IMHO, they don't need them for this new version. I hope I never come to regret keeping it, but I do love it. It is an amazing machine. But now I have hijacked the OP's post, and told her more than she need to know about SQ. And I do thank you, sandiego_steve, for the help you have given all of us in making our SQ choices -- you possess a wealth of knowledge on the topic. I think the OP could not choose a better machine in any version.