It occurs to me that this discussion probably should be on the trellis thread, but since the OP did mention support... ..."With plastic I would have to untangle the vines from the plastic in order to leave the plastic in place... ...If I understand correctly, you tried that and it took too much time." Although I do not leave my trellises up from year to year, I did try to recycle the twine once, as well as to leave all vines in the garden to be tilled under. If the vines were left on over Winter, they were dry & brittle by the time I removed them in Spring. I would cut the bottom of the vertical string, cut the base of the vine, and cut any tops that had grown beyond the trellis. Most of the time, I could then pull from the top down, and the vines would slide off. It took practice, and some varieties were more difficult to remove than others. But in the end, with the wife & I both removing the vines, it took several days. The weather is fickle here, and I don't usually get the luxury of that much time; so I decided that my time was worth more than the cost of the twine. I've actually been wanting to change my trellis system, to reduce the time I spend each year erecting them. I have thought about 5' tall concrete remesh, cut into 5' & 10' lengths & attached to the poles with zip ties. The different lengths would be combined as needed depending upon trellis length. I already use zip ties for attaching the bottom support, so I know they hold up pretty well. SSE uses basically the same system on their farm, where they use thousands of feet of trellis. But there are two drawbacks. The first is that to get the lengths of remesh I need, I would need to cut my own from the 150' rolls. Sounds easier than it really is. The wire is fairly heavy gauge, and after you cut it, you then need to bend it straight... which is also difficult & time consuming. I have 2 rolls now, and might get this done eventually... but it will be a lot of hard work to turn those rolls into flat panels. The other problem with using steel for the trellises (whether remesh, fencing, or cattle panels) is the storage issue. Because of my crop rotation, the trellises will be in different places each year & must be removed before Spring for tilling. As it is, after Spring cleaning, I have to make piles of poles & rebar rod off to the side of the garden. That much remesh (or steel fencing), when stacked off to the side, would be a real eyesore. My main garden is on a friend's property, so that is out of the question. "No one has mentioned trellis netting & it works well and lasts several years, though I am not doing long runs as some are." I considered it in the past, but found it cost prohibitive. Also, although it might last several years, you have to clean all of the debris out of it after the first year in order to reuse it. While that might work for small runs, it would be nearly impossible to clean off 100' or more in a reasonable amount of time. Oh, and on the topic of cleaning trellis material, there is an easy way to clean old vines from wire fencing. Just roll up the fence - vines & all - when everything has dried, and (in a safe place) set fire to it. Presto! no more vines. Cool, unroll, and reuse.

The highest energy use will be if you run the dedicated line partially open with the skimmers. Reason being, you need to ramp up flow to get the suction needed for the cleaner. Depending on the cleaner, this could be anywhere from 30 to 50 gpm. As an example, you typically need about 48 on a Hayward Navigator with this set up. Install an actuator on the dedicated line and you suddenly need about 20-25. This is a significant savings that more than pays for the actuator. You would really have to know the system to set it up. It is a bit tough to put in writing but the best way to start is you need to know whats on the i5 now. How many circuits in use? To properly program, you also need to have the filter cleaned first. There are some initial setting to make before programming and a few software issues to need to work around if you are using any of the on board features. If you're not familiar with the button sequences on the pump, I can walk you though that but it will not be fun unless you address these initial questions.

Always, always, always double check your needle and be sure it's installed correctly before looking any further when a machine suddenly won't pick up the bobbin thread. Make sure that it hasn't slipped down a bit or gotten twisted in the needle clamp. If you changed the needle before this sewing session, re-check and make sure that the thread groove in the needle is postioned directly below the last thread guide. Even better, consult your manual and make sure you've got the right size needle and that it's installed properly. About 90% of "timing" problems are solved by re-installing the needle. Annie

Sorry about the long vent from dryer to porch. Sorry people have to trail through your laundry area. If you want a door between this and the kitchen, why can't it swing back against the wall (bottom of your plan)? Will you be bringing groceries in this door? I'd prefer wider doorways. How will you get appliances into this space? A closet can hold 'things' (mops, vacuum, etc.) and have a rod for drip-dries -- even coats. Making a separate 'compartment' for everything limits use of space. What's on the wall that abuts the kitchen? Coat hooks?