Thanks for the feedback (hope others will reply with more)! OK, I guess that sounds right not to state 'furnace' for electric. We really want to eliminate oil even if it is minimally cost-effective or costs a little more. There would be some peace-of-mind since the furnace is 15yrs old and the tank (and line) is underground and likely 60yrs old. Also skyrocketed price of oil will probably stay or go higher. With all my research thus far I ruled out 13 SEER or lower. One upcoming bid is 14.5 SEER. We will not do propane, so it is heat pump with current oil or new electric. And wouldn't any heating fail with an electrical outage since the fan needs electricity (unless one has a generator)? Also, any advice on recommended brands? I think one guy is going to offer York and Goodman and the other guy Carrier (but there are so many brands out there and I am finding a LOT of unsatisfied reviews).

Hi, we have similar situation to research. We are looking into upgrading our HVAC and have question as to go with Heat Pump with Electric or Oil backup. Background: Central Massachusetts, 20 year old house, 3000sqft typical two story colonial with central forced hot air oil furnace and AC. Currently 5ton AC and heating with 80% efficient and I think 110000BTU oil furnace. Which might be more than necessary. No natural gas available. Oil or Propane. 200Amp main panel. Electric rates are about 11.39cents per KWH. Oil rates are about $4.00 dollars per gallon. AC is only two months or so, heating is more important. So we are thinking of choosing a low temperature Heat Pump with good HSFP, SEER is less important. Questions: We were wondering if for the price of electric and oil if we can move to electric as backup in this area (New England). Would there also be any re-sale issues later too? Our dealer is also recommending Byrant 280A 5 Ton low temperature with 20KW, which we might request to bump up to the three stage 24KW heat strips because we keep warm temperature (70F). Thank you for any help you can give.

I don't know what unit takes 3 -40a circuits or any costing several thousand dollars.Mine is rated at 120a, has two 60a breakers in the house subpanel, and two sets of four ganged 40a breakers in a separate subpanel for the unit. This is a single-family house, 3BR, 2 full baths, 2 half baths (one is in the garage). The house was built 4 years ago by a developer, I don't know what the tankless cost. I vaguely recall that sales literature I saw later for the unit involved indicated $1,025 retail. I've seen it run at full-capacity only during cold-snaps of near/below freezing temps that lasted a couple days which dropped the incoming water temp (well-water) pretty low, when I raised the set-point to 140°F for a specific hot-water task. Typically it runs as little as 7% of capacity to 66% or 70% ... but of course still needs a 120a circuit.

Well the latest quote is in and it's the best so far. It's for two America Standard Freedom 95, two stage, variable speed furnaces. A 60k BTU system for the rental unit ( it gets a $600 rebate after installation) and a 100kBTU unit ($300 rebate) for the larger upstairs apartment. The quotes include everything; permits, thermostats, hard wired CO detectors, and removal of old oil tanks. 60k BTU cost $5500 100k BTU cost $5900 I will get $900 in rebates so the total cost for the install is $10500 I talked to the contractor as I believed that the units were oversized. The furnaces are purchased from the gas supplier and are the ones approved for rebates. He said a single stage 40k BTU unit will be fine for the rental apartment, but American Standard does not make a 40k BTU two stage unit and the 60k BTU unit will cost the same after the $600 rebate and it will be quieter, cheaper to run and will keep the tenants a bit more comfortable. I could get a 40k BTU Carrier Performance 96, there's a $300k rebate on that. He says an 80k BTU unit would be ok for the upstairs two floor apartment as far as heating goes, but from experience he feels that the larger fan capacity of the 100 kBTU unit is needed to get the air up from the basement to the top floor.