robotropolis- sketch out both- and do some math. It used to be we had to calculate openings and drawer width for NKBA layouts. The blind section would not count. If it were an easy reach it still didn't count but you gained the width of the corner fillers. You can see that space better but it is only slightly more useful. You can't fit a big bowl there, any smaller items will have something behind them that is inaccessible without moving what is in front. Blind walls are the same- you can't get what is back there if you don't move what is in front.(I often am planning glasses or mugs for thereso a non issue) If an easy reach, pie cut, or a diagonal wall cabinet starts to cut down the sizes of the adjacent cabinets in comparison to a blind then IMO the blind is better. Attached is a quick example,Blind gives two 30" openings ; the alternative with two 21's and the pie cut .Total openings on the blind at 60 and on the alternate at 63, after accounting for the flexibility of the greater width to me the blind wins. Added-those opening numbers are using 3"fillers in the corner. I most often use 2" on walls since all the brands I use let me do sizes or move stiles. With 2" fillers blind openings go to 62", only 1" less. If you end up with smaller still (9's or 12's) the results are worse. The blind configuration also is less expensive. Another consideration is IF you are trying to match cabinets on two sides of a window or a hood. Which corner lets you do that more effectively without sacrificing storage. (answer varies) Note some brands allow for unequal doors on two door cabinets as a solution. This post was edited by jakuvall on Tue, Jan 7, 14 at 14:06

Somewhere - I can't remember where - I saw a drawing with the height AND the depth listed as being 35" for both the washer and dryer. I have just gotten off the phone with Samsung, and they tell me - after putting me on hold for about 3 minutes while they searched for the info (which tells me the information isn't easily accessible even to company employees) - that the combined height will be 70", so that's in line with the 35" figure. . With the stackability of these machines being touted as a "feature" in most ads I have seen, I'd expect the stacked dimension to be more available. Guess I'll see. I'm having the set delivered this afternoon.

The washer should be level first. Then when you stack the dryer on top, it's feet can all be the same height depending on the stack kit. I know, leveling a washer can be tough. Especially when you have such a tight space. It's hit or miss. Keep trying until you get it even as possible. Also, make sure the washer is solid. Try rocking it from corner to diagonal corner...each direction. If one direction has more wiggle, then slightly extend the leg involved. A quarter turn is all you may need. That being said, I really don't know how much vibration is normal. I'm in the same boat with my front load unit. I'd say, yes, your vibration is normal. I'd say, if the spin is ok, then it's ok.

Okay, without having dimensions, I took a stab at it: - It's a large space, but it's very spread-out, and bigger isn't automatically better ... I'd divide it up like this: - Carve out a U-shaped work space in the middle of the large kitchen. This keeps all your functional items close together /easy to use. Within this main kitchen space, you can have 2 huge drawer stacks + 1 smaller drawer stack next to the kitchen for cooking tools + 1 chef's drawer to the left of the sink + 2 big super susans. - I'd do uppers only on the side over the range, which would leave the whole space wide open ... and with light and breezes coming from both sides, this would be a very pleasant space. - To the right of this main work space, you have either a cabinet run OR pantries ... with the refrigerator in the middle. Loads and loads of one-step-away storage ... and it's space you can step to without walking around an island. So super convenient. - Because you have so much length to the kitchen and because you value table-time, I'd add a bay window to the front of the house /add a small kitchen table for more intimate dining ... then continue the kitchen cabinets (but more shallow) for another huge amount of storage near this small table. - I'd us this by-the-small-table cabinetry as away-space for the kitchen. That is, I'd use this one-step-away counterspace for the things that clutter up /clog up the kitchen counters: the coffee pot, a bowl of fruit or a cake-under-a-dome. This away-space will mean that your real work space is always clear /ready for use. It'll also be a nice sight line upon entering from what I now know is the front door. - Because I think dishware would be stored in the cabinets /uppers by the smaller table, I moved the dishwasher to the front side of the kitchen. - This leaves the back-bar as a large, open space, which will function well as a buffet table when you have guests /will be using the larger table. - This whole layout can function in multiple ways ... the center is the real work space, yet it relates to either the small eating area OR the larger eating area ... or both at once.