Washing Outdoor Wear Using Nikwax TechWash and Similar

16 years ago

I just did what may be my final load of outdoor garments in a top-loader (although one of them may get a second, solo wash). Have any of you front-load folks tried using TechWash or similar products?

The bottle says to cut the dose in half vs. top-loaders. I don't recall ever seeing any sudsing from it. Is that characteristic of soap products vs. detergents?

I've never thought top-loaders with agitators did a good job on rainwear and heavy winter garments (which tend to fill with air and float) and am looking forward to better results with the Duet we intend to purchase.

I'm not sure any dryers (except maybe commercial ones) do a good job on such bulky garments but am looking forward to finding out otherwise. All the snaps and zippers certainly give a drum's finish (and the ears of anyone nearby) a good workout.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (6)

parrot_phan
16 years ago
Hi chipshot --

One of the things I've learned here is to get puffy items like comforters and down vests wet before running them through the wash cycle. I put the item in the washer, let the FL draw water on a high-fill cycle (delicates usually), tumble for a minute or so, then I do a final spin on the load.

After the spin is done, I add the detergent and run the full cycle.

I drip dry rainwear, like Gore-tex jackets, rather than put them in the dryer. For other items, I'll close all zippers and snaps then turn the garment inside out to prevent damage to the washer, dryer or garment.

I've got Nikwax but haven't used it my FLs. I find a good warm wash with a powdered detergent and an extra rinse is all my outdoor wear needs.
housekeeping
16 years ago
I use NikWax and other technical washes all the time in my FLs.

Do use less than you you might in a TL, though, especially if dealing with GoreTex garments as you don't want anything to clog the micropores.

If you have stuff that is particularly soiled in one or more areas (cuffs, neck bands, pocket edges, etc.) apply a little bit of the product, straight, directly on the area and rub with a soft brush before you wash. This way you can provide localized heavy cleaning to the spots that need it. I usually rinse the area after rubbing or brushing to see if I've shifted the soil before proceeding to machine washing.

Don't be afraid of a good spin speed and that's an excellent way to remove water and reduce drying times.

If your garment is fragile, in addition to turning it inside out as suggested above, you can put it in a big mesh bag.

I do machine dry, for a short period and at low heat, jackets and vests because that's a good way to remove wrinkles from the washer. I get it out long before it's fully dry, then hang it up and finger press the lapels and plackets and straighten things up so it looks great without additional ironing (ironing nylon and technical fabrics can be hair raising as they will melt at surprisingly low temps).

For down-filled items you can search on this forum for my detailed instructions; I think it's still here. If not let me know and I'll re-post.

I use NikWax and Neotex (for Goretex and other high-tech fabrics) and Downe Wash and Cuddledown down washing products for down-filled items.

HTH,

Molly
Related Discussions
What are you wearing?
Q
Comments (12)
Update on the peel: Did a TCA peel at home, 30-35%. Results were awesome, I'm definitely glad I did it. I waited until late in the year when I wouldn't be outdoors as much, and don't step out the door wearing less than spf30. (spf50 during peak hours) Before the peel: you have to know someone who knows this stuff or do a good deal of digging to find this out: a common cause for an uneven at-home peel is that most people don't use acetone to clean the skin beforehand. (Washing your face won't do it.) So, I used acetone on a cottonball and swiped it over my face well, avoiding the eye area. Also, I mixed my TCA solution, measuring carefully. Be sure to dilute with a purified bottled water. During: I swiped the TCA solution over my face with a cotton pad, without 'rubbing' my skin. With a Q-tip, I reapplied the solution precisely onto a particularly dark freckle on my forehead. This process is the most unpleasant. If you've ever had anything pierced, the pain is similar to that - except it's all over your face. You'll notice a frosting effect on the treated skin - frosted like frosted glass. Pain subsided considerably after 3 minutes, and my face just felt 'funny' after 5-6 minutes. Frosted appearance was gone completely after 8-10 minutes. After the peel, I washed my face as gently as possible to remove the acid residue with Cetaphil. I patted my skin mostly dry and applied the contents of a vitamin E capsule onto my face. Over the next two days, I reapplied the vitamin E as needed to keep the skin from drying. After that, it required less upkeep to keep the skin moist. It took about a week for my skin to mostly peel, and it was completely peeled after 10 days. As my skin peeled, most of the photodamage and freckling went with it. There is no evidence of the nearly-black freckle from my forehead. Only one line remains on my face, a brow furrow that I've been working on since I was 12 - and it is so much more shallow... not the constant crease it was before. The 'new' skin was sensitive and a bit pinkish, and coated in SPF. All the time. Now, about two weeks later, I am consistent with the sunscreen and hat-wearing. I can't recommend this enough if you've got the guts to try it at home. Especially for what I spent for it - less than ten bucks! (Well, more if you count the numerous sunscreens I've been through.... I'm sensitive to some brands and have settled on Coppertone Oil Free For Faces.) I must stress the importance of treating your 'new' skin well - sunscreen is not optional!
...See More
DON'T use vinegar in your washing machine
Q
Comments (389)
I have a 2014 LG front loader and my wife has been using white vinegar with every load, not a lot, just poured into the fabric softener and bleach dispensers (we didn't know about not using vinegar in the wash cycle which is when the bleach dispenser is released).. Two years in, the dispenser drawer started to leak out of the front. Then rust streaks started to appear under the dispenser. .. A few more years went by and I decided it was time to take the washer apart to clean the door gasket and try to find out why the dispenser was leaking.. What I found was the hose that goes from the back of the dispenser to the tub was badly deformed, looking like it was partially melted. The crumpled and restricted hose obviously caused the dispenser fluids to back-up and leak out of the front. .. Once I got the front door panel off, I could see that the lower main tub drain hose was also deformed and restricted. I was surprised the washer still functioned. Upper hose Lower hose The only products that have gone into the machine are liquid detergent and vinegar (vinegar was also used for the tub clean cycle). This is regular white vinegar you buy at the grocery store. I found this on LG's website: Can vinegar damage your Washing Machine? Yes, vinegar can harm rubber parts inside a Washing Machine, which will eventually lead to leaks if used too often. Whilst washing your clothes with vinegar is a cost-effective, natural way to soften and deodorize fabrics, avoid using it in your washer too frequently. Only use it sporadically when deep cleaning the machine. Can't be 100% sure, but the vinegar we used is the prime suspect. I replaced the hoses and stopped using vinegar. So far, the issue has not returned. Perhaps LG (and others) should make higher quality rubber for their products?
...See More
can I wash down coats in a FL?
Q
Comments (9)
I've been washing down items for more than three decades. Do use special down soap, not the products made for de-scenting hunting gear (even if the label says to do so). Don't use woolite or lingerie soaps, they can gum up down, destroying the natural loft. You can buy down soaps from camping stores and by mail order from Cuddledown. Use only small quantities of the soap (less than a tablespoon, probably more like a teaspoon or two, max.) Here's the drill: Inspect the item very carefully for tiny rips and tears that can leak down. Make repairs as necessary; if you're resewing or patching use tiny stitches, and use oodles of them. Pre-spot any really stained areas with a small amount of the down soap. Rub it in, let it set, then rinse and repeat. In the worst cases, you may be able to push the down aside enough to use stronger pre-treaters, but must work to keep them away from the down and rinse well before going on. I usually err on the conservative side since additional dirt will be washed away, but weakened fabric or too-harsh treatment of the down can do more damage than a small stain. Remove any detachable hoods. Childrens clothes probably dont have draw strings, but on adult items secure the draw strings in way that doesn't draw in the item. Assemble a mixed lot of down things of about the total bulk of an adult's jacket. (Except of course for comforters and sleeping bags, which are larger. These can be done singley, even in the smaller European 5K machines, but present other challenges.) Put the items in the machine and run a cold, or barely warm fill, short or no agitation, rinse and spin cycle, with no detergent. The purpose of this cycle is to force the air out of the down item using the machine's power. If the items look squashed,"drowned rat" is my usual description, you have suceeded. Now, begin another cycle with warm water and a small amount of the down detergent. Do NOT use regular detergent and do NOT use any fabric softener. This is the actual washing cycle. This should should be a gentle action, relatively short wash, high water level cycle. It's perfectly OK to have a normal spin, in fact it will make getting the tiems dry easier. Move the stuff to the dryer and dry on low for about 45 min to an hour. I use plastic rings made of nylon (like Nylabone dog toys) to help get the down broken up but I don't use them for the first half hour or so to limit wear on the fabric. I prefer to remove the items from the dryer at this point and give them a couple of hours outdoors on a sunny breezy day, followed by a final period of drying in the dryer with the Nylabone rings. It can take several hours of dryer time, so don;t be surprised. At each change over I feel the item carefully to locate any hidden pockets of wet down and nudge them apart. The items are dry when they feel and look dry, puffy and lightweight. But if you are going to store them for the season I would hang them in an airy place for an additional couple of days just to make sure all the moisture is out. Down stuff stored with even a trace of moisture will be ghastly when you get it out again. Better safe than sorry on that. If you have a "down emergency" in either the washer or dryer, stop the machine and collect all the loose down and sew it and the leaking item into an amply-sized cloth packet and continue on with the process. For a child's jacket you would need a pillowcase, larger items need larger encasements. Afterwards you can find the hole(s), restuff the down and close things up tidily. Unless forced by an unexpected event, don't start a down cleaning project unless you will have time to carry it through with no delays. Wet down items (or worse yet, wet feather items like pillows)can get irremediably vile in less than a day if the drying process is not substantially completed. Molly~
...See More
Not washing your jeans?
Q
Comments (22)
LOL Marilyn. You're right, not everyone has donkeys, horses and pigs! Too cute. I wear mine a number of times before washing. Even when shovelling snow I wear them again the next time I do it. The bottoms get wet and some dirty, but not enough to wash every time I shovel. Others I wear to the store and wear them a number of times as well before washing (inside out). Mine are cheapie Walmart. I keep wanting to try the Costco ones but haven't done it yet. Hubby loves his from Costco, and like everywhere else, men's clothing is cheaper than women's there as well. I love wearing yoga pants, they are so comfortable, and apparently, those at Costco are good quality.
...See More
chipshot
Original Author
16 years ago
I do run a "pre-wetting" cycle and find it really helps. I wonder why NikWax doesn't include that step in its instructions. Maybe because some people would complain doing so would be wasting water and energy?

I probably should have pre-treated the one garment. It was really dirty. I try to be careful when handling saturated insulated outerwear, as the increased weight of the garment might lead to damage. That's why I never hang dry such pieces (although I have flat-dried them when there was space available). Spin speed in our TL is not user-selectable. I was just happy that the load balanced.

The really dirty parka is one that I'm trying to squeeze as much life out of as possible, as I haven't been able to find anything that would be a direct replacement. It's a synthetic-filled EMS Gore-Tex parka with a powder skirt and insulated hood. Almost everything today seems to have gone to zip-ins, which I find weigh more and diminish the powder skirt's effectiveness.
chipshot
Original Author
15 years ago
Fast forward a few months, and I'm going to wash a few items with Nikwax in our Duet. Per instructions, I ran the machine's rinse cycle to clear out any detergent residue. I wasn't surprised to see practically zero sudsing. While there are a few spots that I'll pre-treat as Molly mentioned, I'm curious to see how the Duet performs on untreated areas compared to the old Maytag we had been using. I'll also probably watch the machine very closely for excess suds and be prepared to cancel.

I think it's time for a couple of the garments to be re-waterproofed. I'll try to remember to put down some newspaper in the part of the garage where I plan to spray them so no one slips and falls. With that done, we'll probably start experiencing drought conditions.
chipshot
Original Author
15 years ago
Fast forward a few months, and I'm going to wash a few items with Nikwax in our Duet. Per instructions, I ran the machine's rinse cycle to clear out any detergent residue. I wasn't surprised to see practically zero sudsing. While there are a few spots that I'll pre-treat as Molly mentioned, I'm curious to see how the Duet performs on untreated areas compared to the old Maytag we had been using. I'll also probably watch the machine very closely for excess suds and be prepared to cancel.

I think it's time for a couple of the garments to be re-waterproofed. I'll try to remember to put down some newspaper in the part of the garage where I plan to spray them so no one slips and falls. With that done, we'll probably start experiencing drought conditions.
chipshot
Original Author
15 years ago
TechWash didn't do a good job of cleaning the dirtiest item, so I pre-treated with Shout and ran it through again using Tide HE. Together, those did a pretty good job.

Washing Outdoor Wear Using Nikwax TechWash and Similar

Comments (6)

parrot_phan

housekeeping

Related Discussions

chipshot
Original Author

chipshot
Original Author

chipshot
Original Author

chipshot
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Washing Outdoor Wear Using Nikwax TechWash and Similar

Comments (6)

parrot_phan

housekeeping

Related Discussions

chipshotOriginal Author

chipshotOriginal Author

chipshotOriginal Author

chipshotOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

chipshot
Original Author

chipshot
Original Author

chipshot
Original Author

chipshot
Original Author