The rings are filled at the factory.

What's the model number ?

It is a WTW6400SW1 - serial CT4171102. With the top open I did discover that two of the suspension rod plastic "ball joints" for lack of a better word at the top corners of the machine were totally rusted to their "sockets" due to the insane amount of rust all over the top assembly inside - it looks like the fenders of a 72 Chevy driven in Chicago for 36 years. A 3rd one was very rusty as well but wasn't totally frozen in place but still didn't move well. When you would try to move the tub assembly around those plastic balls would not budge a single bit even though the tub would move around from the rod's flexibility. I pried them out then sanded the sockets smooth with emery cloth and cleaned the rust off the plastic balls and then greased all 4 sockets with new grease so now the whole tub can shift in the sockets again. Not sure if that was the problem or not, but I can tell that the whole movement is smooth again now that the balls can rotate. I also lubed the suspension springs with silicone lube so now they go up and down much smoother. I ordered a new washplate of the new style 4 lobe design that is supposed to come in this week to fix the tangling problem, so I am going to wait to see about the balance problem once that is installed. I rarely use this machine and put it in the downstairs laundry for rugs and comforters and such because it tangled everything else so badly - it's been a pain from day one. I use an LG Tromm FL for my daily laundry now. But this Cabrio was working "fine" - and I use that word loosely - up until a few months ago then just kept getting worse and worse. It had always had occasional problems with balance but nothing like now. Of course now that I see how badly it is rusted underneath, I figure the whole top will fall thru shortly and the problem will be solved when it goes to the landfill. Ridiculous to pay that amount for this washer 2 years ago and see what has happened - without all that much use! Do you have any other ideas about the balance problem from past experience or do you think maybe those rusty joints could have caused it?

> do you think maybe those rusty joints could have caused it?

yes...

similar Oasis rust problem ...

We use the LG WM2688 Washer & DLG8388 gas Dryer :)

thellmer,

Sorry you're having trouble! I have a washer similiar to yours, the Oasis and I know what you're talking about. I have complained about it to several Sears salesmen and tech support, they all seem to think I'm stupid and tell me to add MORE items to balance this out. I know enough not to wash a heavy item by itself...but sometimes it just goes out of balance FOR NO REASON! And it makes me so mad that I've had to give up washing some items all together (like pillows) in my home washer because I will be standing there for the entire DAY trying to reposition things to get it to drain. I've had my machine two years and have decided to just replace it as soon as I can. My daughter works at Sears and she is always asking questions on my behalf and one salesperson admitted to her that these machines were a huge disappointment and were prone to errors and balance problems. I just had to have my control panel replaced because it was throwing error codes and stopping mid cycle. I would be calling regularly to complain, you should not be stuck with a rusty piece of junk after two years. Wish I could offer you actual help...

Well I put the old wash plate back in today because curiosity was getting the best of me and to my dismay the problem still exists. It doeesn't make horrible groaning noises anymore with the ball joints greased,but it still went off balance just as quickly as before. Seriously there isn't that much to one of these things mechanically, so it's driving me crazy trying to figure out what the balance problem is. Empty, the washer vibrates a lot during the spin cycle, but isn't off balance, but just add one washcloth or one handkerchief - yes those paper thin men's handkerchiefs - and the thing walks across the laundryroom floor and sounds like it's going to burst through the sides of the cabinet before finally stopping with the UL error. Although the balance rings have water in them and do not have any visual cracks or signs of leaking, I still wonder if they have enough fluid in them. They sound like they are about half or less full. What an expensive piece of rusty junk. Whirlpool has lost my confidence, and therefore my business forever.

You said you removed and checked the basket. Did you notice if perhaps the basket hub is loose or cracked?

The balance rings are supposed to be partially filled. If they were topped-off, the mass of the liquid couldn't shift to compensate for off-balance conditions.

Can you take a video of it and post it on Youtube so interested readers can see what's happening?

Trying to figure out how to do a video that will really show the action. I bypassed the lid lock then did the drain and spin. At the initial low RPM the basket spins fine. No noticible movement at all, which is odd in a way because once the next speed kicks in - the middle one - the top of the basket attempts to stay centered but the bottom starts to bounce almost up and down at first, but then starts bouncing around everywhere and then kicks the UL error. I took the basket hub and gear off and they are fine. It's like at the higher speed something in the bottom balance ring causes the fluid to bank up instead of leveling out which causes it to go off balance. Maybe a "fin" or something inside is broken and floats around until the higher speed lodges it against another "fin" which then causes the fluid to dam up. Have you ever taken one open to see what's inside the bottom ring - how it's constructed? I envision a series of fins/baffles and chambers but I may be wrong. Wish I had a spare basket to try without spending the money on a brand new one just in case that's not the problem. However, I really believe it must be as there aren't enough moving parts down there to really be anything else. I did all the diagnostic tests and they all came back fine. There was a historical F51 error but the motor tests showed fine.

How old is the machine?

You know how the basket drive works, yes? The basket floats when there's water in the tub to disengage from the drive so the wash impeller can turn separately. When the water drains, the basket settles back down on the drive so it turns with the impeller. Is it possible the hub "gear" is slipping? I don't know what's the structure of the balance rings, other than being about half filled with water and sealed.

Sounds like replacing the basket may be the next logical step ... depends on if you feel it's worth the expense under the circumstances. Is there perhaps a longer or "lifetime" warranty on the basket?

YouTube - Washing Machine Dance

YouTube - Possessed Washing Machine

I don't think either one of those is much related to the Cabrio problem.

Its about 2 years old, and no I removed the basket to check the gear, hub, etc and they are all in very good almost new looking condition. It hasn't been used a lot since it's always been a PITA and could never leave the house when washing a load because it's always been prone to balancing problems - but nothing like now. Now it simply will not spin a single load or even the empty basket. I bought the Front loader because I hated this machine and moved it downstairs to wash rugs, comforters, etc. I use the FL for my day to day washing. Since this is an "extra" I won't be putting a new $200+ basket in. I'll sell it on ebay a part at a time before that. I'm hoping one of the local used appliance graveyard parts places may have one. Planning to check around this weekend and see. I'd pay $50 for one but that's about my limit.

I took the basket out tonight just to mess around with it, and I've discovered if I roll it across the floor in the dorection in which it would be spinning, it lurches somewhat although I can hear the fluids running inside. If I run it in reverse, it doesn't seem to lurch. That seems to me like there is something restricting the flow somewhat in the spinning direction causing it to build up and become off-balanced - evidenced by how it lurches across the floor when pushed into a roll. Thats also what I notice when the lid is open and it begins the spin, eventually building at the higher speeds until it throws it into a wild banging caliope. Would love to have a look inside or even see a cutaway diagram of the patent to see how it is constructed and if there were any parts inside that could come loose or break off to restrict flow. Oh well, guess it's going to up up for parts on ebay unless I can find a cheap basket to try out.

When it spins mounted in the machine, it's on a vertical-axis. Rolling it along the floor is a horizontal-axis orientation. Stands to reason it'll have different characteristics that way. :-)

My Kenmore Oasis has exactly the same problem. It was working fine and now it won't wash even the smallest load without the UL error. Something must have broken, but it's not obvious. Did you ever figure out what caused the wild unbalanced spinning, and what the fix for this is?

I think your basket is probably fine. The chambers on the top and bottom of the basket are supposed to be sealed, and half filled with water, so you are definitely going to hear sloshing sounds.

From what you describe, I'm guessing that the shock absorbers have lost their damping, and now they are just springs. You can tell this by bouncing the wash tub up and down, and and if it feels "bouncy", then that's your problem. The fix is to replace all four shock absorbers with the latest Cabrio parts. The newer parts have a black coating on the rods, which is different from earlier shock absorbers. I don't know if this makes them better, but it should solve your problem.

Thanks Washerman! That's the first useful suggestion I've found after weeks of researching this problem on the web. I placed my order with Sears PartsDirect tonight (20% coupon code 90008 worked!) and I'll post the results next week.

Who'd a thought I'd find the answer for whether there is supposed to be water in the basket ring at the gardenweb? My Kenmore series 70 top loader shakes like mad, even when empty. I tore it completely down which was easier than I expected, and cleaned all the smelly crust, lubed, and changed the drive coupling, but still it shakes. I was shocked by the prices Kenmore parts dot com asks, and found third party much cheaper. I was searching e-how for three hours trying to decide if I should drain that water, then first try here I got my answer. I did notice you can tilt the tub with one finger, dunno' if that's normal. So now I'll try to wedge heavy foam between the tub and frame, then secure it to the wall. Thanx for the help guys!

Your machine does have a water-filled balance ring at top of the inner basket ... but rest of the construction is completely different from the Cabrio of the original thread topic.

There are three horizontal springs on your machine that anchor the tub to the base pedestal, and a fourth vertical spring at the rear. Make sure all four springs are in place. The tub support also is cushioned where it pivots and slides on the base by six plastic/nylon pads (two sets of three). Not uncommon that the pads wear down after some years of use.

VERY SIMPLE SOLUTION
BUY THE 4 SHOCK STRUT FOR 60 BUKCS REPLACE THEM AND
THATS IT SOVE YOUR PROBLEM
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Here is a link that might be useful: Luis Lopez

I want to thank you Luis Lopez, I to was stumped with my washer, every time it would spin it would go all over the place, I opened up and I could not see anything wrong. I read your post, went to servall got the struts put them in and now she spins and spins. I'ed never thought that was the problem. so thank you very much.

hi luis lopez i change THE 4 SHOCK STRUT,the steel tub and the problem persist. how i change the bering on the plastic basket? thanks

I was suspecting the suspension rods, also. Plan on ordering to solve this violent spinning problem. The verticle bouncing is when it all starts. Drum is easier to push down than new ones in the store. Reading these post convinced me the final 10 percent to spend the 60 bucks.

I stumbled upon this post while searching for solutions to my wild unbalance issue with my whirlpool cabrio machine. Hope the shock absorbers do work as suggested and I would like to give another solution to another problem I had with this dang machine.

If leaking, or flooding more like it, then check your drain pump. Somehow my machine tore a comforter I washed and a huge chunk made its way to the pump. I spent a couple hours pulling a little at a time out of the small 1" drain then cutting that piece off and repeating that a hundred times. All in all it ended up being about half the size of a large bath towel.

Hello everyone. this is my first post...
I have a front load washing machine from Whirlpool Cabrio. It has started to do a rubbing noise whenever it is filled with water and rotating. Manually I can turn the tub forward and reverse without hearing any noise. I dismantled the tub asembly to find out that water is been captured within the metal tub. I now suspect a leak through the seal but it doesn't leak on the floor ? How can I get rid of that water as the tub assembly is all in one piece?

JCere17,

Your details are confusing.

You say "front load washing machine" and "Whirlpool Cabrio" but a Cabrio is a toploader not a frontloader.

If you do have a Cabrio, the inner drum has a water-filled ring that provides gyroscopic balancing during spin. The water is supposed to be there and is sealed-in at the factory. Do not try to drain it.

semichill did replacing the shocks fix the balance issue? I am having the same problem and was reading these post trying to find a solution.

tmaal45,

Answering your e-mailed question here ... I don't have a Cabrio but per service info I've often seen, the springs and dampers on the suspension rods can go bad and cause balance/vibration trouble.

I have replaced the rods on my washer and still getting an UL code. However, one of the blue caps on the new rod broke in the first wash. But it still went UL. Anyone?

junelp, what blue cap are you referring to? If you're talking about the bushing that the spring sits in then yes you will need to replace that bushing.

My cabrio is shutting g off by its self and saying it's off balance any help

Failure Mode and potential cheap fix. Have the violent spin on a Whirlpool Cabrio WTW5000DW0. thought this applies to many. I examined the springs closely and found dirt and hardened old suds on the plastic slider above the springs that is restricting the spring action. Worse case is in picture below...one of mine actually split. I think some WD40 cleaning or silicon grease on the rod might fix many that have not split yet.

Jim Rollins ... suggest you replace all four suspension rods. The may be a design update on them.

I wouldn't put another dime into it. It's junk, designed to fail. I plan to try my fix just for fun and probably give it away. I'm going to keep my old 20 year old Whirlpool that was designed like a tank!

1. I have whirlpool cabrio having same issue unbalance on spin cycle. 1st i replaced suspension rods.....still unbalanced. 2nd change out bearings and shaft....still unbalanced. 3rd changed out motor stator.....still unbalanced. 4th changed out sensor.....still unbalanced. Did some research,and what i found is some washers will have a counter balance ring located on top of basket. It is filled about half way with liquid and factory seal. Some have a removable counter balance ring and some models are permanently attached to stainless steel tub. Our model has the permanently attached ring. and has liquid in it. The bottom part of the basket is another plastic molded ring, and has water in it. I understood the the water in the top ring ,but didn't understand water in the bottom ring. I did some research and found that many different manufacturers of washing machines only had a counter balance ring located on the top of washer and done on bottom........was there suppose to be water in the bottom ??? Did more researching and found a video that i guy, like myself with the same issues and changed out the same parts and still had unbalance issues. He had water in the bottom plastic ,and he drilled where the two mold plugs were and drain out water and reseal holes.........no more issues! So I said what do I have to lose,and did the same thing......RESULTS NO UNBALANCE!

I have a Whirlpool WTW4800BQ1 and after about a year of service it started sounding like the swat team was busting in the back door when it went into spin cycle. I replace all the spring suspension units and it is no longer getting off balance.

I compare the old units to the new and found out what the problem was. The white plastic cap assembly just above the spring on the old springs (seen in the picture above) would move easily up and down the steel rod On the new spring assemblies this cap is very tight around the steel rod and does move up and down the rod but with great effort. This is the dampening mechanism. You can imagine how log these plastic cap will stay tight moving up and down on a steel rod. This would also explain why washing too heavy of a load would cause the machine to start going off balance immediatly after. These plastic dampening caps are moving very rapidly up and down the steel rods with a heavy load. This would quickly overheat them and cause them to fail. I am going to make sure we keep the loads small and when the dampers do fail I plan to rig up some screen door dampers on the tub. Plastic rubbing on steel is a urine poor mechanism to provide damping. but that is just my opinion.

We have a Cabrio wtw6400sw3

We keep getting the UL error code. We have replaced the stator, suspension rods and hub. The washer is still extremely unbalanced. Everything is leveled. We purchased the OEM parts.

The top tub has water in the balance ring. But the bottom does not.

Any idea about what could be the issues here? We have four kids and need our washer working.

I HAVE WHIRLPOOL CABRIO MODEL WTW8500BR0. WE HAVE REPLACED BASKET DRIVE KIT, DRIVE SHAFT AND BEARINGS, AND SUSPENSION RODS. STILL CONTINUE TO GET UL CODE WHEN 9 MINUTES LEFT ON CYCLE. WHAT COULD BE THE ISSUE?? I KEEP THINKING ITS SOMETHING SMALL AND STUPID WE ARE MISSING NOW.

If you figured it out, let me know please.

I had a repairman look at It and it was the Basket drive kit again and the top of screw was stripped out. And while it was being repaired the stator motor was broke. I wasn't spending another $150 and waiting 3 more days so i now have a GE washer. I loved my Cabrio but after $400 dollars and a month without a washer I was done.

I have the same problem and replaced suspension and it did not help. It's level and been. Through all the truble shooting. Any advice would

Here is what I came up with.......THE 2 PLASTIC BUSHINGS IN THE BOTTOM OF THE SPIN BASKET ARE WORN & HAVE TOO MUCH SLOP ! I know that the basket must slide/float up & down on the shaft but my basket is rocking around on the shaft. I put 1 wrap of tape around the shaft & put her back together.......Spun up to full speed just like she did for the 15 years I have owned her ! I am going to repair them, because I am not buying a spin basket ! In all of my research......I believe I am the first one to even mention them bushings. Let me know how YOU fix that issue......I am still working on that without paying a machinist to make me something ! My machine is a Kenmore Elite HE top load Canyon Capacity.....11027087604 Whoops...when I copied & pasted the model # my font got big.......But this is worth having big......Check it out !

Whirlpool could not tell me anything about their replacement basket, except that it was out of stock & their price is over $750 ! The jury is still out on the saline solution in the balance ring ! Just the top ring or also in the bottom float chamber ????? From the manual I downloaded.....Basket—The basket is designed with a traditional balance ring at the top and a flotation chamber at the base. The outside surface of the basket is punched to allow lint to catch on the holes during the wash cycle. When the water drains, the lint will be flushed off and out the drain. Drive Motor Drain Pump Recirculation Pump Basket Hub—The basket hub consists of two splined components that engage or disengage based on the position of the basket in the vertical direction. The outer hub component is fastened to the bottom of the basket, while the inner component is attached to the end of the drive shaft. Inner Hub (Drive Shaft) Outer Hub (Basket) Continued on the next page. Flotation Chamber Basket Balance Ring Balance Ring Good Luck to you all !

@Chris Spadafora

There should be gyroscopic balance rings at both top of your basket and at the base. The lower balance ring and floatation chamber (which is just an open space under the base that captures air to make the basket float slightly upwards to disengage from the drive hub as the water rises during fill) are both integral to the base. The upper ring and the base/lower ring are integral to the basket at manufacture, not available as separate parts. The balance rings are filled and sealed at manufacture, they shouldn't leak unless there's damage to them.

The basket drive hub is Part Number W10820039 and is a replaceable item. It's anchored by three screws. There are three unused anchor holes in the basket basket, the alternate three are used if any of the other three strip-out. Tighten those screws reasonably snug but do not overtighten.

The basket is listed $497.41 at an online source I often use, although currently out-of-stock (says 2-3 month wait, but could be less depending on the manufacturing/supply situation). The drive hub is listed there $17.99. Another source lists three baskets in-stock, $521.89 ea. There's a used basket currently on eBay for $219.99, probably are also other eBay choices.