Call places that sell used appliances and see what they have.

Check Craigslist.

I'm not aware of any dryers with a top-mounted lint screen except Whirlpool-made 29" units. So either you'll have to get a Whirlpool, or do without the top-mount filter design.

Regardless of replacing the "vents" (whatever specifically that means), there very likely is something about your exhausting that is contributing to the fuse issue. Those fuses don't blow unless there's an airflow restriction that leads to overheating. Pretty much all dryers nowadays have thermal fuses for overheat protection, so switching brands may not necessarily solve the problem. Maybe you can find a used unit that's old enough not to have a thermal fuse.

Thanks for the feedback. Since my first dryer was bought almost 12 years ago, I think the thermal fuse is here to stay and I really do not want a dryer older than that since with a large family, energy bills are a huge consideration. I try to always look for energy star appliances. I have never felt comfortable buying used appliances in any case. I would sooner get something new with a warranty.

What I meant by the venting being replaced is the last repair person (the fuse has gone on this one twice before in the last year or so) replaced all the venting from the machine to the outside with solid metal venting (not sure what it is really called but it does not flex. The dryer is right by the vent so we are talking about 9 feet of vent total. It leads to an outside vent hole. I think the hole may be a little too low but it is at least 5 inches above ground, not blocked by anything and we have tried scooping out dirt so that it vents better. Our house is solid concrete so it is difficult to drill another hole, nor do I really want to. I have always assumed there is a venting problem but since the vent barely ahs to go anywhere I do not understand what the problem is. Nor has anyone ever been able to tell us

As for not buying whirlpool, I have to assume a competitors model is made a little differently and may work better in my situation. If not at least I will have a 5 year warranty. The first whirlpool (actually kenmore) started having problems after less than 2 years and I did not have an extended warranty. After my husband learned how to change the fuse, we probably replaced it 10 times, about once a month. This time it is only the 3rd time in a year so we are making progress! Plus we had no problems for about 5 years (just long enough for the extended warranty to expire). Once the fuse starts going, it seems to happen again and again. The way it was explained to me on the first one, there is actually a problem with the electronic sensor and thermal regulator and that board needs to be replaced. So what is happening is the dryer is getting too hot and shorting itself out. We priced it on the first dryer and it was 280 just for the board, not including labor. At that point you can buy a new dryer

As for the bottom lint trap, are they as safe as the top ones? Our first dryer did at one point have a tiny internal fire which went out. I was told it was from bottom lint buildup. They also blamed the overheating on the bottom trap. Everyone that came in to repair it said it was an awful design. I do find the top lint trap much easier to clean

The latest Maytag Bravos models have a revised high-velocity blower that may work better for situations involving airflow restrictions. But they're likely outside your price range. A few other brands/models also have higher airflow, but they're also typically top-of-line models.

That being said, it certainly sounds as if your exhaust ducting is adequate. So the next question is ... how is the dryer connected to the ducting? I've seen cases in which the wall opening is offset from the dryer outlet, either set too high in the wall, too low, too far left or right, whichever. When the typical length of flexduct is used for the connection, it ends up being restricted due to the offset ... and/or adequate length for working-space being kinked/coiled behind the dryer.

My exhaust is a straight shot out the exterior wall, essentially the length is the depth of the wall structure. But an offset to the left, the amount of restriction shown in this picture, caused the dryer to trigger an overheat/airflow restriction fault on larger loads.

Dadoes.....Not to hijack this thread but PLEASE tell me where you bought that rubber mat in the pictures. What is the name and brand. I want to get the exact same thing. Thanks.

Dadoes Thanks for your response. I cannot believe that made a big difference but I guess it does. The dryer vents from the rear and the exit is about two feet to the left of the dryer and up a wall about 7 feet. I will have to look at it again. I think it is still probably too late for this dryer

Maybe look for a dryer that has more than one vent, GE seems to make a couple. A couple in my price range also claim to be designed for extended venting, up to 150 feet, sounds like that might be good

What you said about large loads strikes a cord. It seems to happen when we either wash something unusual, like a bath mat or when the dryer has been used too many times in the same day. I have tried to cut back but I am not the only one doing laundry

Misterz, the mat is six rubber interlocking tiles, 20.5" square each, trimmed to fit the area beneath the machines. I bought them at Lowe's in September of 2007. I don't recall the brand name and didn't record it in my MS Money. Lowe's lists Novalis as a current brand, so that may be it. A Google search reports numerous brands and sources for similar products.