I got back to the splitter and added guard-rails to protect the filter, added a flat plate on the push guide's front vs wood wedging the rod,s end (restricting some play) and etc maintenance. I contacted the donor to Confirmed Over Kill On Fluid! The Log Splitter was Initially Manual and had grown to Hydro before I continued it. It had to be a Monster Manual Bottle Jack splitter and I'll respect it as a 10 ton with the Hydro Cyl 3.5" ID X 24" X 2" rod. Plus, due to the 4X4X.25 rail X 1" pin and adjustable wedge. I H/N found one that compares. "This Explains All I Thought About The Splitter". I felt it was originally manual with the small wheels and front handle. Except, the plate for the tank and pump were throwing me off. The Donor who is a machinist and perfectionist explains the plate that I thought was Factory added (due to how it was formed and welded). He explained the 5 Gal Hydro Fluid tank could have been 2-3 Gals. The 5 Gal tank was the easiest to find vs welding up one or using the 4X4 rail as the tank as many. I'll still test it good with 4 Gals (which has never shown any signs of heat (Why?), "at the pump's 3 GPM rate as below", plus specs below in the same range or above this splitter suggest 3.5 Gals which sounds correct. Too Much To Spell/Grammar Check! LOL. loger PS. I'll be looking for some wood for next season soon!! http://science.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/hydraulic2.htm Let's look at some of the specifics of these components to see how a real hydraulic system works. If you take a trip down to your local building supply center or a place like Northern Tool and Equipment and look at the log splitters, you will find that a typical backyard log splitter has: 1. A 5-horsepower gasoline engine 2. A two-stage hydraulic oil pump rated at a maximum of 11 gallons per minute (3 gpm at 2,500 psi) 3. A 4-inch-diameter, 24-inch-long hydraulic cylinder 4. A rated splitting force of 20 tons 5. A 3.5-gallon hydraulic oil tank

How do I always end up here? I was googling something (not Mr Clean) and one of the results was this thread. Interesting how often these forums show up. Nice to see other people who know about MSDS's. Eucalyptus oil is fantastic. It did leave a pale patch on a timber laminated shelf which DH attacked with a little too much vigour. But on other occasions, for example when he's used it to remove paint spatters on timber, it's been fine. Didn't know about pets. Thanks for the warning. Just wondering if eucy oil is the main active ingredient in OdoBan. Years ago when citrus oil was the big new environmentally friendly thing I tried to buy a cleaner and found most in the supermarkets had the usual ingredients anyway with just a token bit of the citrus oil added. For coffee and tea stains in cups I read about bicarb years ago. Back to what I was doing.

The Fagor never made it onto my radar screen, but it looks like it might be the same as the Ariston, the one I wasn't able to see in person. Honestly, at the prices we are talking about, I cannot see spending so much money for a manual steamer wand machine when for a little more you can get the Miele with the automatic foam and hot milk system. But since you asked, after 6 months I am getting a little annoyed with the Miele. Though we love the beverages and the convenience, I am getting a nagging S2 fault intermittently that requires me to get up and cycle the front door interlock to get it to shut up. I called Miele and they will only send someone out to fix it on my dime. No warranty at all. Why? Because I bought the machine on ebay. The seller was a Miele dealer in New York, but Miele won't honor the new machine warranty. Personally, I think Miele, as a corporation, sucks. I will buy a set of service documents on the black market and fix it myself I guess. To answer mhjohnson, I don't think the problem is Arabica beans, but it may be the roast. A lot of these coffees are over roasted today, particularly from the influence of Starbucks, which really roasts with a heavy hand. I would look for a medium roast bean, set the coarseness of the grind to no more than halfway, and then start making experimental coffees, dialing up the water and down the amount of coffee until you hit his happy spot. One other trick is get a cup, dial up ONE shot of espresso, then use the hot water button and fill the cup with hot water. Stir it up and see if he likes it. Then adjust the coffee up and water down until you hit the right mixture. Once you get done with this, set up 2 profiles so that he can dial coffee his way and you the right way.

Hi guys, thanks so much for all the responses and for sharing your thoughts/experience - it's almost overwhelming how helpful everyone is! So last night I ran a load with gel, and there was still grit but less of it. It could be a one-off result, so I'll have to try going back and forth between tabs and gel to see if there's any consistency. The good news is that the cleaning seems to be back to normal (other than the grit) - the past week or so I'd have to rewash certain dishes, and it seemed to be getting worse and worse. Looks like cleaning out the filters and grinder area did something positive there. ci_lantro, interesting that you recommend that. When I was running a load with vinegar I opened the door shortly after it filled and noticed that there was some foam, which surprised me... I figured it was reacting with detergent residue. I'll definitely try drying out the grit and experimenting with how it reacts to acids. As for aerators, I did not check faucets, but did swap out a shower head fairly recently and there were no issues there. The plumber was also surprised by how strong our water pressure was, so doesn't seem like it's bad enough to clog anything.