For your dryer setup, I would think a 90 degree bend shouldn't be a problem where your total run sounds short. From my Miele's dryer manual, "drying times and energy consumption remain unaltered for 4" duct up to a total length of 66'."

As for the water hoses, I am pretty sure my stacked Miele's water inlet hoses have a 90 degree bend where they attach to the washer.

I would like to see your photos as I am planning a setup like yours in another home.

yes, they do have a 90 degree bend where they attach to the washer, but i also need a 90 degree bend where they attach to the water inlet pipes and i cant find high quality hoses with 90 on both ends.

Another thought...have you planned for the electrical requirements? If you only have one 240V outlet, you'll need the bulky, wall-mounted "easy installtion kit" to connect both machines into a single outlet.

yes, i have it already. 057B and yes, it is pretty big. i will mount it under the countertop to the right of the washer where i plan to put in some shelfs.

as for the 90 degree elbow, i was thinking of getting this guy:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-Manufacturing-Inc-22503-Gripper/dp/B000BP7WFK/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_1/002-8361028-1792029

my design will look something like this:

http://camel.ethereal.net/~jkb/miele1

the electrical box will be inside the upper shelf.

Be sure to plan for a way to turn your water supply off without moving the machines. I turn my water off upstream of the Miele hoses between wash days with lever-handled quarter turn valves. This protects the machine from water line pressure and ensures I'll never come home to a laundry room full of water. Also you need to clean the inline filters (And there are two of them on each water line) from time to time. Access to them w/o moving the machines means you'll spend less time getting it back in place. I can actually walk along the wall behind my machines, so it's easy for me, but it's something to think about when designing a laundry space even if your set-up isn't like mine. Especially if you're determined to have a counter on top. If I did that I would make sure I could easily lift the counter, or at least, remove a section over the back of the machines.

Regarding setting the machines up and getting them level, it's not a one-time deal. They need attention from time to time, and every time you move them you have to recheck (even if is you carefully mark the front feet) as it's possible to need to fuss with the rear ones after a move. Since I find that kind of leveling work tedious, I place great emphasis on easy access to the machine without moving it.

HTH

Molly~

thanks molly... so it sounds like you saying i should consider very hard before i install a countertop, huh? i already given thought to having a small cutout for water hoses since water inlet pipes would be above the countertop.

how often do you clean water filters?

my laundry room is not very big, so every inch counts, which is why i want the machines as close to the wall as possible.

also, i just realized with a countertop it would be hard to use a leveling device to level the machines properly...

ahhhhhh... so many problems :)

My machines are located under a worktop, always have been. No access to the water taps and they've never been turned off since the machines have been installed, nor were they on previous machines... no problems thus far, neither do millions of other people who have the same set up here in the UK.

Turning water off at the taps, while nice to do, is definitely not necessary, especially with a Miele which has a flood proof system anyway. Recommendations in manuals to turn off water are just cover-your-ass warnings to protect the manufacturer.

Jon

Ok, i finished installing the dryer box just a few minutes ago. Tomorrow my friend will help me carry appliances into the house from the garage, i will hook them up and i will be 75% there (cabinets and countertop is another 25%)

so far the pics are here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jkoum/sets/72157594466850632/

as you can see, i ran into a few roadblocks but worked around them, such as:
1. making longer cable for the 057B "easy installation kit"
2. making a groove for the electrical cable inside of 2x4
3. cutting 2x4 to align new dryer hole correctly.
4. etc, etc, etc...

Here is a link that might be useful: pics so far

Q1: Did you use teflon tape or pipe dope on your brass-to-bronze threaded joints, when assembling your rigged elbows?

Q2: What is the Miele "floodproof" system (I assume it includes reinforced burst-proof hoses)?

A1: i haven't assembled it yet. i just put on to see how it fits. i will assemble it tonight and yes, i will put on teflon tape. what is pipe dope and should i use it?

A2. i honestly dont know, but i sure hope it works :)

No, never use both, just one or the other. Tape does the job, and is neater, one less thing to wipe off your fingers. Some old-school types swear by dope, especially on gas/air fittings, as you get some tell-tale bubbles if leaking... not an issue with your water fittings. Tape away!

SO... does the fancy Miele have burst-proof hoses, suitable for use on aircraft carrier arresting gear? ;')