I didn't see any problem with the drain. The transition is hard to see. Is it sheet metal with insulation wrapped around it. From what I see I don't see a problem. The refrigerant line will need armaflex insulation installed. As for the small dent, as long as the paint isn't broken you don't need to worry about it.

offset on supply duct in this pic looks like it was field fadbricated out of some scrap metal they had laying in their truck.
hard to see the area surrounding the unit but it seems like they couldve moved the unit a few inches forward and done without the radical offsets in both the return and supply ducts.
If it was me i wouldve probably turned the unit 90 degrees to the left or right, removed the straight section of duct directly above the unit and installed a TEE fitting with turning vanes in its place.
the reason i would turn the unit to its side is the fact that the width of the units discharge would closely match the width of the duct above it. the result would be a smoother transition in duct dimensions that would be less restrictive and flow air more freely.

http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2008/05/hvac_trunk_line.html

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drain in this pic looks ok other than the fact that its probably running level on the floor behind the return air duct.(water runs downhill) cant see behind the duct so i cant say for sure how far it runs level but it may need a slight (1/4 inch per 1 foot minimum) pitch downward to its destination. it may be functional running a short distance level but i wouldnt reccomend it.
What caught my eye in this pic other than the fact that the suction line isnt insulated is the fact that the suction line looks like its been squashed flat and the elbow at the bottom looks kinked.
Its hard to see the lineset in detail so correct me if im wrong about the squashed line and kinked elbow.

http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2008/05/hvac_drain_routing.html

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linset in this pic just looks like crap. uninsulated and typical hack and slash installer point A to point B soft copper run.
I usually only use soft copper in attics and crawlspaces so i dont have a weld joint in an inaccessible place. I run rigid copper piping in exposed areas and outside. it looks nice and it takes a little longer to install but that little bit of extra time and effort earns me some recommendations and repeat business. Even if i choose to run soft copper in an exposed area (air handler in the attic for instance) i straighten it out, use a bending spring and/or a tubing bender to make any turns and strap it down to the framing.
they couldve at least used a bending spring to bend the copper and strapped the lineset to the ceiling joists. (im assuming also floor joists of the floor above)

http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2008/05/hvac_inside_ah.html

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I would fire those guys if they worked for me but if you continue to use em plz post pics of the finished job if they last that long.

Good Luck

No offense ckmb but here goes. Your condensate lines aren't plumb, look at the last one on the left. And why do they run down the side of the units on the right side but in front on the left side.Continuity! Your liquid line on the left side is dropping way down by the time it reaches the last unit. That sticks out big time. BTW, why are the lines resting right on top of all the furnaces. Must be agrivating to get the burner compt. doors on and off. And is that the gas piping I see running along the floor then running across and 45ing to each individual furnace? Whats with that? More then likely the controls on these furnaces are in the blower compt. like on most units. Gotta make trouble shooting alot of fun kneeling on the gas pipe. And that brazing job! Boy thats alot of stick on each of those small joints to have dripped like that. How many times did they go around each joint? Hope you used nitrogen. How many rolls of duct tape did somebody go through on the armaflex? Cement looks better and will never dry out and start peeling like that tape will. I don't mean to put your work down but this is hardly a picture taking installation. It also makes me think you don't take into consideration the service and maintenance aspect of a job when you do it.

none taken but here goes.
I do take into consideration the service and maintenace aspect because i also maintain and service my own installs.
im 6' 2" and 240 lbs and fit just fine in that closet. space was somewhat limited but we did great fitting 6 furnaces and coils to take the place of one 40 ton Hydronic heat/DX cool Air handler.
all blowers, heat exchangers and coils are easily accesible and pull out just fine.
center furnaces on each side have heat exchangers removed to have spares for the other 4. system is twinned with two 20 ton condensers, furthest two furnaces are twinned masters and the rest are slaves. center furnaces are basically just fan coil units.
Linesets are not resting on top of the furnaces, they are even with the top and slightly in front of em. what you cant see in the pic is shallow unistrut screwed to the top of the furnaces with copper straps supporting the suction lines.
i dont see the dropping liquid line you describe. it may be the angle of view/perspective playing tricks with your or my eyes.

church subbed plumber to run gas lines.

armaflex joints ARE glued. tape was used on liquid line. i usually use zip ties to strap the lineset together but for some reason i didnt on this job. think it was the fact that i was out of town.
I see nothing wrong with braze joints and of course i used nitrogen. do you dribble when you braze? i dont and havent plugged up a strainer yet. you are right about the drains not being plumb. i think we pulled the left side away from the base becuase it was close to the filter rack door. dont mrembe the reason, it was years ago.
I've been trolling this forum (and posting a little) for years and respect your opinion so dont hesitate to disagree or critisize my work. i learn from my mistakes but in this case i dont think i made any.
This system is a like comparing a Ferrari to a Geo when compared to the OPs contractor's hack job. I've seen side-jobbers do better work than that.
I stand behind my work. we made good money on this job, pleased the customer, got referrals and repeat business. we got invited back a year later to replace the other 17 systems in this church's sunday school.

I was just being picky PITA yesterday ckmb. You're right, alot of times the camera lies. Did you do the sheet metal work yourself too or was that subbed out? Bet somebody had fun in that tight area! Please, elaborate a little more on how everything is tied in if you don't mind. Not questioning you just want to learn something I'm not familiar with. I'm assuming these are 5 ton coils and I see 3 on each side. So how did you come up with 20 ton condensers? And did you say 2 have the heat exchangers removed? I'm the same size as you, or was once actually, so I know the pleasures of larger techs working in areas meant for mini technicians. I pictured somebody laying on their side on the floor trying to work over that gas piping. BTW, thats what got me going originally yesterday. IMO that plumber ought to just stick to porcelain! Thanx for being a good sport about it. I've read some of your postings too. You'd be a good guy to talk shop with.
BTW, You asked if I dribble when I'm brazing. I'm gonna be 59 soon! So I'm getting to the stage in my life where I dribble no matter what I'm doing! LOL

I like a happy ending.

Hey you ol' coal burner,,,I figured once the heating season went away you'd go into hibernation! :-)

Yeah, I'm laid off from this forum for the summer :)

nah,,,,,,people still gotta heat their domestic water even during the cooling season. You're not laid off,,just on call for the summer. You can handle all the oil fired water heater inquires.

Please, elaborate a little more on how everything is tied in if you don't mind.
Not questioning you just want to learn something I'm not familiar with. I'm assuming these are 5 ton coils and I see 3 on each side

they are 7 1/2 ton coils, 3 per 20 ton condenser.
so, 22.5 tons worth of evap capacity per 20 ton condenser.
two 20 ton condensers total.
condensers have a 6 cylinder semi-hermetic recip compressor in each with electric unloaders on one bank of cylinders.
On the back wall in the pic is a junction box with a control transformer and relays in it. a.k.a my homemade twinning kit. I guess you could call this system twinned triplets.

used one 2 stage heat, 2 stage cool digital stat. all fans run simultaneously on call for heat or cool. (set stat to energize G on call for heat as well as cool)
fans run same speed for heat and cool by design so needing a lower fan speed for heat wasnt an issue.

I would have to draw a schematic to explain how i wired it all up so ill just describe the sequence of operation...

1st stage cool energizes all fans, both condensers unloaded and opens 4 solenoid valves. (roughly 27ish tons feeding 30 tons of evap capacity)

2nd stage cool opens remaining two solenoid valves and loads remaining 2 cylinder heads. (40 tons feeding 45 ton total evap capacity)

1st stage heat energizes all fans first then back two furnace's burners.

2nd stage heat energizes front 2 furnace's burners.

Supply duct runs thru ceiling above each coil and manifolds into a single large trunk duct in the attic above it. trunk duct runs into chapel attic to large round diffusers. Guys in our sheetmetal shop fabricated the duct.

there is a normally closed sail switch in each supply duct just above the coils. R circuit from main control transformer is wired in series thru all the sail switches then to the stat. it was set up like this to sense reverse airflow.
if one fan fails the sail switch on the failed unit will trip on backflow of air, shut the whole system down and energize a red LED on the stat's subbase.

And did you say 2 have the heat exchangers removed?

The heating load didnt require the use of the center furnaces but identical blowers are required for twinning so we just needed the fans and coils.
they're basically just dummy furnaces. Church full of people in the mild central texas winters doesnt need much heat lol.

the church's maintenance guy asked me to remove the heat exchangers and such so he could have spare parts readily available if needed. so we removed the HXs, gas valves and inducers out of em. we then patched the holes with insulated sheetmetal.

Made this twinning kit to twin two 20 ton package heat pumps and a few dampers. Yea, thats my coffee table under it.

1 blower in the whole system fails to start due to door switch, wire, fuse, capacitor, motor, or whatever and the entire building has no heat or cooling?

I understand the reason to prove each fan to not allow recirculation but I think something else could have been done.

Having done multiple furnaces in a church before myself (we all know their budget), which was only a bank of 3, I installed gravity backdraft dampers with rubber seals for sound and still used pressure switches to prove fan for the ht/ac on each unit.

Thanx for the explanation ckmb. Makes sense now but I'm afraid I have to agree with Mr. zl700 on your use of the sail switch. Although one things for sure, they'll certainly know pretty quicklike that they have a problem!
Unfortunately I think I see another problem now that you posted that second pic. I seems to me that coffee table is way oversized for this particular job! :-) BTW, whats with the O circuit?

Makes sense now but I'm afraid I have to agree with Mr. zl700 on your use of the sail switch.

We tossed around the idea of using backdraft dampers but 6 sail switches were cheaper. have seen twinned systems where one fan starts slightly slower than the other(s) and got spun backwards. didnt wanna risk that happenning in this case and making the faster-starting fan force a backdraft damper shut. We were on a very limited budget. for instance..the year after this project we came back to replace the other systems and remove the boiler and associated hydronic piping.
one of the church elders tried to talk me into demoing all the piping with the asbestos insulation still on it. of course asbestos abatement wasnt in our contract but he tried to pull a fast one on me to save a few bucks.

Although one things for sure, they'll certainly know pretty quicklike that they have a problem!

that was kinda the idea of also tying into the trouble/alarm LED on the stat

BTW, whats with the O circuit?

second pic is a control board/twinning kit from a different project. it controls 2 packaged heat pump roof top units. 3 stage heat, 2 stage cool. O is for reversing valves.

sorry to jack the OPs thread but since he hasnt replied again i guess he doesnt care :)

I know O and B are reversing valve circuits. Thats why I was wondering what that board had to do with the church job. Yeah we did kinda shanghai this post huh? Sorry gunny.

Oh, I care...was both waiting for you guys to break and getting the installer back out here to address my issues...the owner that gave me the quote came back out and the guy he had doing the install was new to him...he spent another 2 days out here "teaching" him the way his company does business...I'll post some pics in the next couple days..they fixed the connection at the top...squared it off...had just put that there to work out the dimensions once the unit was set since there was so little room, also redid the lineset, insulated it, sealed and rewrapped the insulation on the entire return, sealed all gaps/cracks between the AH and the plenum, reworked the outside unit plumbing, ziptied all lines, bracketed the waterline return to the drain, removed the humidifier control and wired straight to the infinity control..I think that was it...looks better, waiting for some hot weather to see the real effect...much happier now...I'll get to the pics...thanks guys!!