marzhere have no idea what Equinox is and would never recommend Goodman unless it was a case of budget consideration. obviously, you are grossly oversized with current furnace. I like the Lennox quote better with their modulating furnace. what stat was quoted? one thing though with the Lennox G71 is I don't believe it modulates up and down as demand changes. They may have worked this perculiarity out. ask dealer about this. don't think your load calc would be reliable. however, living area below grade usually calls for only small amount of heating and cooling. you would want a damper at the very least to help control the supply line airflow to this zone. Insist on a written load calc on software letterhead and review very carefully. you will need some type of air filter cabinet. was one quoted? and I would recommend new and correctly sized refrigerant lineset especially since you are going down in size on AC by 1/2 ton. post evap coil mdl number quoted. IMO

An old AC man. This has been an old problem I see, but for anyone that might hit this sight I offer the following. From the picture the drain from the furnace condenser (high efficiency furnace) at the top drops down to the drain hole. BUT, just before the drain hole is the drain from the bottom of the furnace which must be a drain for coils or what ever. The furnace fan is pulling a negative pressure on this drain pipe and pulls water into the bottom of the unit. I assume it is leaking out of the lower portion of the unit onto the floor. I do not think the flow is too much for the drain. A portion of the drain water is being sucked into this lower section and then is draining out of the lower section onto the floor The solution is to break the two drain pipes apart and have each drain drop into the floor drain. I think this will solve the problem. No condensate pump is required.

JROGJROG, YOU HAVE A 4 TON COOLING COIL THAT OF COURSE IS NOT CONNECTED TO YOUR 100K FURNACE. WAS A LOAD CALC DONE ON THIS PLACE I HAVE A LINK FOR YOU BELOW FOR THAT MATTER. I INSTALL THE EWC DAMPERS , THEY ARE THE BEST TO MY EXPERIENCE. I AM QUESTIONING A LITTLE ABOUT ABOUT THE BY-PASS ABOVE THE FURNACE. DO YOU HAVE ANY AIR FLOW ISSUES ALSO? BACK TO YOUR QUESTIONS. THIS IS NOT A SAFE HVAC INSTALLATION. SERVIABILITY IS VERY POOR. THE INSULATION ON THE DUCT OF R4.2 IS OBSOLETE IN CODE, IN YOUR NECK OF THE WOODS IT SHOULD BE R8 MINIMUM IN AN ATTIC. IF YOU WERE TO CLOSE IN THE FURNACE INTO A " MECHANICAL CLOSET' YOU WOULD NEED TO BRING IN COMBUSTION AIR BECAUSE THE FURNACE WOULD BE IN A CONFINED SPACE. tHAT MIGHT HELP. YOU SAID YOU WANTED TO INSULATE MORE AROUND YOUR REGISTERS THAT ARE JUST METAL, THEY SHOULD INSULATED UP TO CODE. I SURE HATE TO SEE THIS WHEN THEY HOOK UP YOUR AC. INSULATING THE STAIR CASE IS A GOOD MOVE, BUT THE LIGHT BOXES I WOULD BE CAREFUL OF, FOR SOME MAY HAVE CLEARANCE REQUIREMMENTS Here is a link that might be useful: ACCA AND ASHRAE CERTIFIED LOAD CALCS WITH DUCT DESIGNS

Thanks for your comments so far. Yes, we are definitely on heat and not aux heat. We do have 2 thermostats and they are installed correctly. We agree that there's something causing our electric heat to work overtime for some reason. Don't know why yet. We've had the installing company out after install. There's no gas leak and wiring gets inspected by the county tomorrow. We did a large comparison of our daily electric charge from comparing last December and January to this year. So we compared last year's daily electric charge from our electric company and this year's daily charge. We then compared these charges based on the daily temperature so we could compare correctly. The daily electric charges are 50% higher every single day in our comparisons after the furnace was installed. We need to figure out why our heat pump is working overtime.