Hi njr, I believe the cv down by the pump is to keep the inflow full and the pump doesn't need to suck air in the intake line and lose prime. I don't really know what the one closest to the pump is for but it is probably insurance that the pump doesn't lose prime and worried about the other one leaking. JMHO. The check for leaks is any visible fittings soap up(dish soap solution) or listen for sucking noises and tighten up fittings. If there are any buried fittings you are out of luck unless you know exactly where they are. Probably fittings closest to the pump vibrations would be the likeliest ones. JMOHO. There has been many types of threads on these types of systems on this forum. You may want to do some research in the old threads. JMLHO. Aloha

well, i hired a company that tried just about everything, to no avail. I hired a second fella and he turned the sprinklers on, and of course, it didn't change zones. So immediately afterwards, he took the top off of the Fimco and it was still full of water. He immediately said, there's your problem. Know that this was a brand new Fimco, and because I thought it could be the stem from reading a bajillion other suggestions, another new Fimco was put on and it still worked exactly the same - no zone changing. Anyway, the new guy immediately said, well here's your problem. It took him 10 minutes to evaluate. Here's the specifics - I hadhave a 4 zone Fimco and I was using 2 (one for the front yard; one for the back); the remaining 2 were capped off. All he did was remove the caps on the 2 unused zones on the octopus. Turned it on, and whalla! Has worked perfectly ever since (been about 6 months now and still good). Apparently, the inside will suction down keeping it from leaking while in use; but once off (as it does for a few minutes between changing zones), it has an opportunity for the seal/suction to stop (but it doesn't because the water is still inside holding the suction down). When the water drains, this allows the suction to let go inside and it can then move to the next zone. I couldn't believe that quick alteration fixed my problem, being that the first "Einstein" said I had to chane the foot valve; the check valve, put in new piping (as long as I had to dig out for the foot valve); had electrical/current check; had the pump taken apart and entirely cleaned ($100 for the pump cleaning in and of itself) - and I had all these things done from reading all the experts online saying, "I guarantee you, it's the stem; I guarantee you it's the valve; I guarantee you that your pump needs cleaning has debris in it, etc. etc.") I would suggest, first go to the Fimco (or whatever brand you're using) and after it stops sprinkling and didn't change zones, remove the top and if it's still full of water, take the caps off the octopus for the unused zones. The water has to drain out somewhere in order for the suction inside the Fimco to break loose and allow it to move to the next zone. If you take the top off after sprinkling and it didn't change zones, and you find there isn't any water in there, then this obviously isn't your problem. But if it is full of water, you just may find that removing the caps from the unused zones on the octopus is all you need to do. Of course, I found out after having spent more than $500 with the first sprinkler company that obviously needs to go back to school, and he still had no idea when he walked away (I replaced him.) Thank God the second fella knew what he was doing.

Thanks, Carol. Well, the result of my overnight valve leaking test are in! Not too bad. Bottom line: If I extrapolate the results from last night to a full day, those valves are leaking just under 5 gallons in a 24 hour period. Given my current water/sewer rates, about 4 cents a day. I'm still going to replace all the diaphragms though since they are so old. More to prevent a huge failure vs this weeping issue I have. For anyone who stumbles across this string (thank you, Carol, for starting it!). Here is my information: Toro Flo Pro Valve: Model #284-16-04 Replacement Diaphragm Part Number: 89-9861 Replacement Solenoid Part Number: 89-0114 As of this writing, 8/3/22, both replacement part #s are available on Sprinklerwarehouse.com If I ever replace those valves, I was told by Toro that the Jar Top valve part number 53708 is the current replacement. I checked and it is available on Amazon. If I don't have to replace those valves, I'm not going to. I'm a DIYer and that job, although doable, would be a pain.

I had read about the Hansgrohe valve, but I didn't care much for it. Can't understand exactly how I could control temperature, volume and diverter with only 2 handles... We recently installed a new shower with a rainshower head and handheld head, run by one of the Hansgrohe controls. It's very simple to operate. The temperature is controlled by the smaller handle on the outside. I think I've touched it once; after putting it on a temperature both my wife and I apparently find desirable, we never touch it. The larger, inner handle controls volume and diverter. With the Thermobalance II, shown above, you turn the handle left of center to use one shower head, or right to use the other showerhead. Want to be able to use both at the same time (as I did)? For a few more dollars, you get the Thermobalance III valve and trim... This unit could control three different showerheads, or the plumbing can be configured to control two showerheads -- which is what we did, and what I think you're saying you want to do. Turn it left to the for one showerhead, turn all the way to the left and the second showerhead runs; in between, both showerheads run. It's easy to adjust the volume between the two, although I have to say I just go mid-way and let them both run full force. I like the simplicity of having only one control and one handle on the wall. You can certainly configure it with three different handles if you prefer; I just wanted to explain how the Hansgrohe works if you're interested. -- Eric