Flushing a water filter before use is helpful information. Soliciting your "Auto Flush Technology" is against the rules of this forum. If you've made the effort to get a patent, I know you spent many hours and many dollars to accomplish that. Your time spent marketing your idea here would be better spent securing a manufacturer. Contact your local SBA (Small Business Association), Our local SBA will provide lawers at no charge to develope your business. I know the start up costs would be high and thats probably why you are looking to sell the patent. You can also retain the patent ownership and license/authorize a manufacturer to make your product. We have local inventors workshops where you can exchange ideas and bring your product to market. A true Entrepreneur never believes he can fail.

Thanks for the informative post Nicpedia and others. For those unaware of the energy and indoor air problems introduced by recessed lighting, Ban the Can and Kick the Can might help. Uncontrolled air movement (even with ICAT) is the main issue, contributing to ice dams, wasted energy, moisture transport and possibly backdrafting combustion appliances, sucking in attached garage air or soil gases like radon. Non-AT cans reportedly leak as much as 20 CFM but even 2CFM times X number of can lights can add up to the same amount of air movement as a fan. I think well designed can lighting has a role to play, particularly for artwork and kitchens. David's threads in lighting forum is helpful for novice can designers and this kitchen design article in FHB has graphics but requires subscription. LED and evolving lighting technology requires special dedication for best enlightenment. From what I understand, manually sealing holes in any recessed cans is a fire hazard and why most experts recommend custom enclosures or tenmat hats as outlined at bottom of this recessed can lights article on FHB. It's a laborious PIA, falling outside typical subcontractor scopes adding to can's upfront costs. Be careful thinking that 1st level or conditioned, unvented attics are safe for cans. Homes leak at floor framing bands and the attic, even with spray foam throughout. Blower door tests prove that recessed can lights are major pathways for unwanted air movement. The bulb acts as the "fire" for the micro-chimney effect. As for gaskets included in trim kit, don't expect the electrical sub to include them. Roof details are often contentious and I agree that spray foam at roof deck is on the rise throughout, mainly thanks to stricter building codes. The point is to never install ducts outside the conditioned space (vented attic or vented crawlspace.) Spray foam at roof deck doesn't necessarily mean better. The main thing is that the spray foam industry is falsely advertising and recommending below code levels of insulation. R-value is a different measurement than air-leakage (blower door). Spray foam insulation should not be allowed to use anything "air movement" to prescribe R-value. R38 = ~11" of open cell (R3.5 per inch). Others seem to go with 5.5" - 7" thick, which is R20 to R25, barely half of prescribed code minimum! Along with the pathetic energy performance of thin spray foam are the moisture concerns. From the research I've read, best practice includes a supply and return from the HVAC system in the attic. If not, spray foam could be contributing to high moisture content in the structural sheathing. Tough to argue with Joe Lstiburek who points to a best case vented attic AND having ductwork in conditioned space. Building higher performing vented (unconditioned) attics requires some important considerations. Eliminating storage, raised heel trusses, and sheathing/taping entire upper ceiling before building interior walls is often necessary. Flat roof lines and full vault ceilings do best with insulation at roof deck but on top of structural sheathing. We often use SIPS for this, especially with timber framing. Open web trusses and walkout basements are better at hosting ductwork. Achieving current code minimum or better energy performance can eliminate the need for long duct runs to exterior walls and windows. Well designed systems have centrally located mechanical spaces, cleverly hidden trunk lines, and supply registers at interior walls. Ducted and ductless mini-splits are other possibilities. It's great to involve an energy rater in upfront decisions but be careful with applying simple paybacks to individual components. Few raters have the experience for proper input, often involving many assumptions at the design stage and the software is designed to not overpromise. Best to follow or exceed current international code minimum prescriptions, especially blower door requirements for cost-effective results.

I'd cross post this in the Kitchen forum for some ideas on layout. You have a lot of space to work with. A larger version of your plan with readable measurements or individual sections will help. 450 footcandles at the counter for work surfaces is good to shoot for. Under cabinet lights can help. You have a lot of pendants over that slim island. Those Liteline fixtures are used in RVs and boats where there isn't any space above the ceiling. But they do put out light at up to 600 lumens for 9w. If you want to see them in action visit an RV dealer. A 5th wheel like a Montana or Jayco Pinnacle will also give you a feel for a slim island. For ambient light you can use 6" recessed IC fixtures and regular A19 bulb configuration leds. These are maybe $4ea in dimmable at Costco. They use 15w and produce 1100 lumens in a flood pattern that lights up a large area.

I don't usually weigh in on discussions like this, because mostly the finer points of decor are lost on me. In my world, kitchens are mostly about utility: how well can I cook there? And the first thing I thought when I saw that countertop was something utilitarian: "If I were changing the disc on my food mill and laid the hardware down on that counter, how would I ever find it again?" What's great about that counter is that you could cook on it for weeks and not bother to wipe it down. It would never look dirty. In all fairness, from a distance it actually looks kind of nice. And I agree that a more rational neutral backsplash would be a vast improvement, especially from that same distance. The idea of a black or very dark backsplash makes me feel slightly claustrophobic, but whatever. Up close, IMO busy just brushes the surface. I didn't know Mother Nature ever made granite like that, but if she did, she's probably down at her local pub right now, weeping quietly and muttering "I'm so, so sorry" again and again over her third bourbon. As for the backsplash itself, I just have no words beyond "wow." I think it might even surpass the 1970s fake brick on the backsplash in one of my rental houses. You are NOT out of your mind, IMO. Follow your instincts. PS - you needn't apologize for your English. It's way better than that of many native English speakers on the net. I wish I could write in other languages as well as you write in English.