Please save yourself some money on the electric work and do not put in an overhead fixture. Do your first option to have sconces on either side of the fireplace, but lower them as bronwynsmom (a designer) suggested. Get some nice lamps and put them on tables around the room, and it will be much more attractive and warm looking. The fixture you show is one that I might picture in a kitchen or over a dining nook, but not in your living room. This is from the link below on living room ideas - Lighting "Nothing kills a room's style like bad lighting. Don't depend on overhead lighting to be the main light source in your living room. Overhead lights cast a lot of shadows and can be harsh and cold. Instead, make sure you have plenty of lamps, they have a softer light that will make the room feel warm. A lamp at each end of your sofa and a floor lamp by your chair will encourage folks to curl up with a good book. With the proper amount of lamps you can avoid using the harsh overhead light altogether." Here is a link that might be useful: Living Room Decorating Ideas

You can look for families of lights... You will have pendants, flush mounts and wall lights all coordinated.... And you can keep the soffits if they style nicely like these: Or tear them out and put lighting on top of them if you don't want the taller cabinets to go to the ceiling with crown: Are you working with a kitchen designer? They should be able to put the plans into their design program so you can see the space 3 D. This is important - there are a few changes I would make to the plan... I would strongly urge you to get a full 36" lazy susan in the corner. I have seen the 33" ones and they are not great. Most garbage units are 21" wide ( there are a few 24s) - you don't need t balance the lower cabinets when you turn a corner on each side of the stove - just balance the uppers - the island blocks that visual anyway. Your wall cabinet all the way left of the hood and the pantry right of the ref. will need to have a filler next to them or an odd overlay on the door or extended style - the contractor needs some forgiveness to install level. Even though you are doing a counter depth ref. you should do panels on each side. or the pantries need to be 27" deep.... Just some suggestions! Good luck! Looks great so far!

The solution to fixing your ceiling is not a patented method that is associated with a certain contractor. Any contractor can build the appropriate solution that is dictated to them. And other things play in selection, like if this same contractor will be installing your cabinets or running the whole project by G.C.'ing the electric/finishes/etc. The extent of remodel plays into how much ceiling is removed. Most people interpret "complete kitchen" as a necessary gut including much more than just a change in cabinet style or color - electrical requirements are different now, insulation/moisture control methods are much better than the 1960s, layouts can be greatly improved, etc. And with that spending a ton of money on new cabinets/counters/appliances/floors/lighting justifies the ease of starting fresh rather than dealing with limitations of swiss cheese walls and patchwork. There are some possible concerns to note with this project: - Large attic with "full walkup stairs, catwalk, 7'-8' ceiling": It seems this is more than a roof attic used more than for maintenance; so already overspanned 2x6's that also have a heavy deadload with the radiant and double plaster board, allow no storage of items, and will deflect with spread or point loads (e.g. walking) should be evaluated. Putting a new LVL splitting these does not (wholly) change the capacity of the 2x6s mounted into it, and the LVL will stick up 6" above them. As I already stated, 2x10's are the proper size of lumber for this span and some light storage. - Radiant: solution should consider extent of it in the ceiling, method of heat compared to rest of house, existing radiant works with new cabinet/circulation/lighting layout, demo doesn't raise risk of errant destruction, single layer of new drywall may require additional reflectors/different insulation. - The physical method of straightening the existing 2x6s: Realize that you cannot just lift a sagging piece of wood and immediately all is right - you incrementally lift, by say 1/8" or so, over a long period of time. If, like most contractors would prefer, come in one afternoon, build a tall wall to bang under the sag to lift it, you will get cracks everywhere in the ceiling that is left, and the wood will probably not keep the shape. And, if you just slice the middle of the sagged wood to install a LVL in the middle, the joists to either side of the LVL will still have some sag.

Hi - I’m back as my contractor notes that he can’t install an electrical box in the wooden ceiling…. I’m a little confused as the existing light fixture is done this way ?? (Can see this in pic above - above the square hole is an electrical fixture which was / is my only switched kitchen lighting.) Is this not ‘code’? (He hasn’t recommended changing this fixture but maybe didn’t notice it yet) My preferred route would be to patch the square hole in the ceiling & then locate 3 globe pendants where appropriate. One of which I think will be in the patched hole, but the other two would need to be new holes in ceiling. I also suggested the extra large canopies - he said they won’t work on sloped ceiling. He hasn’t been super collaborative … he wanted to build a drop ceiling out of drywall - which doesn’t seem at all right to me as I want to maintain the 60’s vintage look. It’s one of my favorite parts of the house! (Even if a pain in the @$$ for plumbing and lighting issues 😜)