We have just installed Hard floors on Concrete using the glue down method. Unfortunately, my husband also got glue on our floor as he was installing. We saw in another chat thread that Mr.Clean Magic eraser works on the dried glue. I had my doubts, but decided to try it anyway. It REALLY works. The Bostik and Mopei cleaner does work too but leaves an oily residue on the floor, which then needs to be cleaned up, I've heard that denatured alcohol works good with this, but have not tried it yet. Has anyone else had experience with that? I've used Magic Eraser, Bostik adhesive remover, Mopei adhesive, and then cleaned with Bruce and Bona cleaner, and so far nothing has hurt my floor! It's hard work but gradually we are getting it all up!

OMG...this is VERY difficult. I don't know how you (and all the others) did it. I've realized I'm covering way too much surface and need to go much, much smaller. Of course, after I applied PA7 to another large space that I get to remove today. Yaay. So far, The Green Monster is winning this war. I can't seem to rinse off the brick well enough to remove all the PA7 and the paint residue. How did you rinse off the brick well enough and not create a huge puddle on the floor? Did you find any specific brushes/tools to be most beneficial? I've noticed the grout is soft and I have to not use any metal/wire brushes. Nylon only. I'd love any suggestions/advice as to techniques that worked for you. I'm going thru nylon brushes like M&Ms. Just how long did this take you from start to finish? Five years? Eight? I don't know if I can do this...it feels daunting. I'm not sure PeelAway7 is the right product for this. Take a look at the pics below. Fireplace with first coat of PA7: After...still needs more scrubbing and rinsing (w/out flash). This is after 3hrs of scrubbing and 2 coats (two 24hr segments) of PA7. Same w/flash: Got ambitious before I knew what I was in for. I get to remove this section today.

"Reality is, it will be a major issue when you need to sell the house in the future." Fact is, this is the smallest house on the biggest lot in a very desirable neighborhood. Houses similar to mine that sell are typically gutted and redone by folks wanting a larger fancier house in this school district. It would be next to impossible to over improve- the neighborhood can support a home worth five times what mine is. So chances are anyone who bought the house would be doing a very major reno anyway. In other words my lot and location are the value of my property, not the dwelling itself. But I have no plans to ever sell so there is that. We bought this home specifically to retire in and the only way I am leaving is feet first :) I have done several highly customized things like kitty access doors through walls and other things no one else would want. This is just one more :)

As jfcwood suggests, having a better look at the floor will determine what is possible. If you have a floor vent, go ahead and lift that up to see if you have MORE than 3mm of wood above the tongue (3mm = 1/8"). If there is then you have a CHANCE at paint removal turning into a finished hardwood. Then the question becomes how old is the house? Is it *possible the paint has LEAD in it? Paint was allowed to have a substantial lead content right into the late 1970's. It looks like something was covering the paint - was it carpet? That's possibly why the paint looks in good shape. In essence, someone painted this floor for a reason. It is possible that reason was simply to save money (we see it all the time on Houzz), but it is HIGHLY POSSIBLE that paint was the only option - because they were OUT of options. So...before you set yourself up to fail, have a strong look at what is going on with the WOOD. Check the amount above the tongue. Start there. It is homeowner friendly so long as you can find a floor register. Get your tape measure out...and write down what you find. If you have MORE than 3mm above the tongue you call in a hardwood flooring professional to give a price.