I have been eyeballing one of these reel mowers since December but had a hard time pulling the trigger to purchase one when my push mower still worked. Well, I just "happeend" to be walking through the Lowes lawnmower dept a week or two ago and spotted it sitting on display - at $190 how could I NOT buy it! :) First of all, let me say that I only have approx 7000sqft of lawn to mow. The front yard is full KBG and the back is a mix of KBG and Tall Fescue. I love having a nice lawn and mowing my yard, but have always had a hard time telling my children "I can't play tonight, daddy has to cut the lawn again and you can't be in the yard when I'm doing it", so this was one of the main reasons I purchased the Fiskars. Here are my bullet points on likes/dislikes so far: LIKES 1. It is very quiet! I goofed around and talked with my children as I mowed the lawn right next to them last night. I now can also cut my lawn when my children are asleep or taking naps. 2. It is no more difficult to push than my "non self propelled" craftsman mower, and may possibly be easier. 3. It cut right through my 4-4.5" high KBG down to 3" without breaking a sweat, and the fine clippings it kicks out just drop into my lawn, unlike my old gas mulcher which tended to clump. The grass in my back yard is extremely dense and thick and really should be mowed every 2-3 days as fast as it grows. The Fiskars cut right through it with only a little more effort than the front lawn. 4. It gives a very nicely groomed and level cut. This style of cutting is also healthier for my grass 5. It is so easy to just brush off and roll into the garage when i am done. Less space needed to store it as well. 6. No gas fumes or exhaust! 7. Love that it cut's up to 4" high. 8. It is fun (at least right now)! I enjoy the looks I am getting from neighbors and cars driving by :) DISLIKES 1. I am 6'5" tall and have had a little bit of trouble getting used to the height/angle of the handle. But, I have this trouble with all sorts of things, so it's just a matter of getting my back and muscles used to the new positioning compared to my old mower. 2. I miss not being able to cut the grass on the "pull back" of the mower. it obviously only cuts when being pushed forward, but this is a small complaint. That's it - I love everything else about it! I'd be happy to answer any questions if you have them.

Nice looking mower. Appears to be in good shape, particularly the reel. Appears to have been sharpened with a relief grind in the past. Only the leading edge of the blade is bright, rather than the entire edge. Looks like it could use a back-lapping, however. That being said, let me focus on the engine. First, the Honda GX is a great engine. Your mower is 24 years old, and a new Honda GX would last at least as long. However, the Honda is a serious piece of change. The Briggs 9 CID "Classic" is also a competent engine, and unless abused should have plenty of life left. Here's what I would do: 1) Remove the carburetor, and then separate the tank and carburetor. The long plastic tube is the main pickup, which lifts gasoline from the tank via diaphragm pump and spills it into a small well directly underneath the carb, The second pickup is a casting projecting into the small well in the tank. The long tube has a screen on the bottom, and it must be free and clear. You should be able to blow gently on the tube, On the other hand, if you suck lightly on the tube there will be no flow as one of the flapper valves has closed. The cast tube has a metering jet pressed into ot and it must flow gasoline. I normally use a set of welding tip cleaners to gently ream out the metering jet. 2) While yo have things disassembled, you should replace the diaphragm in the carburetor. You can only do this when the carburetor off of the engine as the muffler is in the way. The diaphragm is inexpensive ($2 to $4) and widely available. 3) Lastly, while the carb and tank are off, I would check intake and exhaust valve clearances. The valve chamber is directly below the intake and exhaust ports and has a cover held by two screws. Proper clearance is .008 intake and .015 exhaust with the piston is 1/4" beyond TDC with both valves closed. Use a feeler gauge to measure. Usually exhaust clearance is OK because Briggs used relatively high quality steel. The intake, however, is little better than a nail and will stretch causing the valve to lose clearance. If clearance is OK, close up the tappet chamber and proceed to reassemble the engine. 4) If you have insufficient clearance in either valve, you will have to remove the cylinder head, and pull the valves out. Additional clearance is obtained by grinding the end of the valve stem. Remember, you can take metal off but not replace it. Grind slowly and measure often. Reinstall the valves, springs, and retainers, and remeasure with a feeler gauge to insure clearance is correct. Now you can reinstall the cylinder head, put the carb back on the tank, and reinstall on the engine. You should now be good to go.

1. Reel Mower --> not recommended, miss a couple weeks and you are hosed as they don't work well on tall grass or long stems. I like the electric - corded models - same $ as a fancy reel mower 2. Wheel Barrow --> yes, agree with renee :) If you plan to mix concrete often get a metal one... 3. Pruners --> Felco, cheapest price is at Frostproof. 4. Rake -- bamboo if you will rake around plants, but it's better to leave the leaves there anyway. For the lawn the big plastic one is best 6. Shovel - get a digging fork and spade which have the U or T handles. Stainless steel looks nice :) 5. Tiller --> biggest waste of money I ever made... Don't get one - layer mulch/amendments on surface and 'fork' in. 6. Composter --> also a waste of money, just make a pile 3x3 or use some old fence boards to make open bin(s) 7. Hoe --> get a scuffle or hula hoe, small and narrow for weeding around plants 8. Garden clogs/ gloves that will fit a small hand. I buy gloves regularly, the Nitril coated ones are great for touch, but wear quickly, aren't padded and make your hands stink :) Expensive leather ones are cool, but turn your hands yellow...clogs are whatever slip on shoes I have which are no longer clean enuf for work. 9. Anything else you use often.. Gopher traps...Sluggo...Garden Knife... Automated Watering System !!! Chad

You can find reels of twist ties in the gardening department of many stores (used to tie vines, tomato plants, etc.). I've included a link below to show what they look like, or to order. You can also cut 1/2" off the top of any type of plastic bag and secure the bag by tying it on. This is what I use if I lose the zip-ties for oven bags, since you can't use regular twist ties in the oven. I have a large decorative mug in my kitchen, and all twist ties from boxes of plastic bags, or those I use to secure produce bags from the store and reuse, get tossed in there. I also use this mug to limit my "collection". -Grainlady Here is a link that might be useful: Twist Ties - Amazon.com