Advice on old Trimmer reel mower....
okgardennut
15 years ago
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bm_owenby
8 years agoPete
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Reel Mower for Chicago?
Comments (11)Ron It sounds like you and I have the same tastes. The UK has an excellent climate for growing fine fescues and colonial bent. Those grasses can be closely mowed to around .05" Mowing them short creates the putting or bowling green appearance. Having a reel mower helps but you will not find reel mowers in the US like the ones in the UK and the ones in the US are too expensive IMO. Forget about trying to import one as it's cost prohibitive and nobody will want to ship it. You can grow these grasses but during the somewhat short period of time in between unbearably cold and unbearably hot, you can mow these types of grasses short. I grow similar grasses, creeping red fescue and creeping bent and use a manual reel mower and a Snapper 19" rotary which is the only rotary mower makerketed in the US that will cut to a half an inch. It can be adjusted quickly for mowing the other grasses I have taller. You can get an optional bag kit which I have. Good equipment to start out with considering your close-mowing season may be short. I've tried a TruCut gas powered mower for a couple of weeks and was happy with it but I couldn't justify buying one for my small yard. Compared to every other residential yard out there it looks enough like a putting green to me and everyone else so who cares. Grass less than .75" doesn't stripe all that noticeably and to do it you need a lot of weight and the universal rollers you can attach to mowers suck - don't waste your money. The snapper does some degree of striping on it's own. Subtle stripes that last about a week if there's no rain. Maintain the grass higher in the summer then that's when you have stripes. In my back yard I grow tall fescue and KBG. I don't recommend cutting either one of those short. KBG can tolerate close mowing but it is not dense enough and grows way too quickly so it doesn't really lend itself to that close mowing. Using a reel mower on tall fescue or KBG and mownig high is not going to accomplish what you want. 'Twill look nice but it's not going to be a bowling green....See MoreReel mower performance expectations
Comments (27)I have both a Brill and a Scotts classic, and they both have their own advantages and disadvantages. For sure, I wouldn't use them on a big lawn (my house sits on slightly less than 1/4 acre). For the purposes of comparison, here's a rundown if anyone is interested in either mower. AFAIK, the sunlawn is similar to the Brill Maneuverability: The brill is much lighter than the scotts, and the rollers on the Brill make turning around obstacles much easier than the Scotts with the wheels. However, the Scotts is a bit easier to stay in a straight track because of this. Also, I find the Scotts better for hills, because the Brill is so light, the cut is compromised especially when going uphill or cutting sideways along a hill (where the wheels are slightly "lifted" up due to the light weight and slow the blade down). Advantage: for flat lawns with many obstacles, the Brill. For hilly lawns with no/few obstacles, the Scotts. The Blades: A lot of hype is touted with the contact free blade system of the Brill (and Sunlawn) over the scissor contact type blades of the Scotts (and many other traditional reel mowers). Yes, the Brill is much easier to push around when "not cutting grass", but when you are actually mowing, the difference is very little in the force required (and I'd attribute the difference to the narrower cutting width of the Brill). I also find I need to adjust the Brill once or twice a season for optimum performance (not the 4 years or whatever they claim) though it is very easy to do. There is also a good reason the Brill only has a maximum cutting height of 1.8": the cut quality suffers at its highest setting (in unevenness), but cuts awesome at the lower settings. I guess the blade needs to dig in lower where the leaf blade is stiffer and doesn't cut as well when the grass is longer and "floppier" You also need to maintain a decent speed when cutting with the Brill to get the best cut. The scissor blades of the Scotts are much less dependent on height and mowing speed than the Brill in getting a good cut. I'm not sure about sharpening interval, as I have only had the scotts a few months, but it is still cutting great. So, in my opinion, the contact free blade system might have an advantage in sharpening interval (with easy adjustments now and then), I prefer the cut of the Scotts overall, unless you are cutting short (under 1 1/2 in), where the Brill is probably equal. The dreaded wheel lines of the Scotts: Yes, you notice the lines, but they are less pronounced the shorter the cut, and depending on the grass type (I hardly notice them on my front lawn which is KBG, whereas it is more noticeable in the back with the KBG, fescue and rye mixture even at the same cutting height) The Brill with it's rollers has a much less noticeable track, and in fact due to it's slightly less quality cut (compared to scissor blades), looks more "natural", or like the lawn hasn't been cut recently (but nice and even, not that the lawn hasn't been cut!) So, I think neither is better than the other, it depends on your conditions. For a lawn with few obstacles and turns, but has hills, I'd recommend the Scotts even though it is heavier. For flat lawns with a lot of obstacles and curves and only minor grades, "and" you always cut shorter than 1.8", the Brill would be good. I'm glad I have both, as my lawn is in between the conditions that would prefer one or the other (some hills out back, flat in front, some obstacles and curves). If I only could have one, I would pick the Scotts mainly due to the higher cutting setting available. I will be pulling out my Brill when it gets cooler and am cutting shorter. As for my lawn, I get many good complements from the neighbors, who all use power rotary mowers, and some who even have sprinkler systems ( I use oscillating sprinklers when needed, and fertilize organically 90% of the time)...See MoreAnybody here using an old-fashioned push/reel mower?
Comments (12)Hey everyone, wow thanks for the quick responses! Pam, I'd LOVE to have it if you're sure ya'll won't need it anymore. I was prepared to buy one but this would be doing me a big favor. I'll send you an e-mail and we can discuss the pick-up details. Shot and Buford, thanks for the advice on using one. I'll be sure and not let the lawn get too unruly. Since it is such a small area I'm hoping I'll be more likely to mow it on schedule. Harriet, I appreciate the review about the Scott's mower. I looked at those on Amazon too and that was one I was thinking about. Pam's offer is too good to pass up though but I'll keep the Scotts in mind if I ever do need to buy one new. Ya'll have a good day and I hope everyone got some rain yesterday. Sincerely, Danielle...See MoreNeed Tool Advice, Lawn = Jungle, mower or trimmer or ?
Comments (4)Thanks everybody for excellent points, explanations, tips and advice. Won't buy a trimmer. Would never let anything harm a bush or tree! Will have to look at a variety of tools carefully before deciding and buying. I think in our case, because there's so many thousands of slugs, we would have done just as well and saved lots of money using the erosion control mix of dwarf perennial rye and strawberry clover instead of the hundreds of dollars we spent on ecolawn fleur-de-lawn, since there are no flowers due to slug feasts. We needed the grass and self-fertilizing clover that's in the fleur-de-lawn (also available just as erosion control) as erosion control to bind the mud that was washing out of the yard daily. This thick lush green cover provides protection to the baby bushes and trees against the fierce burning sun and helps with moisture retention. Eventually the redwoods, sequoias, sweetgums, willows, maples, cottonwoods, thujas, etc -- huge trees-to-be, will shade out the grass, but by that time the tree roots will bind the earth and the trees will shade their own roots. The fleur de lawn really doesn't get higher than 6"; it's the weed grasses that poked through it that grow really tall. And the clover mounds in coils since we have to water to wet the ground for the 300+ trees' roots. At the moment I'm OK after using the hand shears and having my yard guy liberate the flagstones so the washer and dryer delivery men can find their way to the back patio and up the deck to haul away the old and deliver the new. Also liberated several baby bushes by hand. But that takes a whole lot of time and crawling around on hands and knees. When I find just the right thing I'll post the solution back on this thread. Thx everybody for all this wonderful help!...See MoreCAM Cabinetry
6 years agoGreg Goyeneche
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okgardennutOriginal Author