Each drawer has a heating element. You can easily see it. Remove the rack, wash arm, drain filter, and the large stainless steel filter. The heating element is the circular ceramic disk that surrounds the pump impeller. If the heater is bad, the machine will throw a fault code and/or cycle progress will get stuck for a very long time in the main wash and/or final rinse when it's unable to reach the target temperature. You didn't say which cycle you normally use or which model is your DD (603 or 605). Depending on which model and revision is involved, Fast may be low as 115°F and Fast Eco 105°F. Household water temp has more of an effect in that case if it's already higher than the machine's target temp. If you have the standard model with LCD, I can tell you how to get a display of the internal water temperature while a cycle runs. The integrated model without LCD doesn't have the temperature diagnostic. I've gotten a milky-white residue on plastics a few times, such as on these dark blue lids. Seemed to happen when the detergent dose was a little skimpy, and for sure when the detergent I use (WM GreatValue) went phosphate-free. It *hasn't* happened any more since I've been adding STPP and using no less than 4 teaspoons detergent for the main wash.

Yes, I will say that F & P did send out the repair guy a lot of times - for free. Since the trouble started before it was out of warranty, we finally got them to agree to pay for the calls that were past the 2 year mark (or whatever it was). We did pay for parts - after the 2 years, maybe $300 into it for parts, and one labor call before he started coming over for free. But the time off work, the time spent waiting, the sheer number of calls, and the two repairs that resulted in flood damage and a chipped granite countertop, after which both the repair guy and ourselves agreed he had no idea how to fix the thing...was too much. Obviously, this would vary from place to place. BTW, the Kenmore we bought last week arrived with water dripping out of it (about two liters), wet insulation and water all over the outside panel. According to Sears they "test" the pump before they send them out the door, and the pump should have pumped *all* the water out (this one obviously failed its test - the warranty literature, etc., was drenched). We decided to put the older Bosch into the butler's pantry and order an extra set of drawers to go where the dishwasher was in the main kitchen - we're giving up in a DW in the kitchen. The one flood (which ruined the brand new DH-installed floor - so much work) was enough, the parts on the Kenmore were so cheesy looking when we finally got it, it's a no-go (if we had linoleum in mind it would be different, but we're convinced we want wood in the kitchen, and we already have it purchased).

golferdude, I have a WP Cabrio 6200 agitator machine and the matching gas dryer. We have had it for 8 months. It washes very big loads easily. It does not twist things up in a ball. (I did have the HE Cabrio before the agitator one - it did twist things up in tights balls - so much so that sometimes the clothing was dry after a cycle where they were twisted)It was also hard to get all the wrinkles out with the dryer alone. We improvised by setting the spin speed lower. I like that you can set the water level manually or let the Auto feature decide. It washes a pretty hot wash. The display panel is always steamy during a hot wash. It cleans clothing well. I have 2 small children and a hubby who works in a factory on the metal line. I have cut down on loads I do weekly as the capacity is so large. The only con - it can use alot of water depending on how full your load is. Also I can't speak for it's longevity as we have only had it for 8 months. But, so far 8 months have been trouble free. Good Luck. I guess if I could do it all over again I would just buy a standard top loader and standard dryer. In the end I spent around $1600.00 Canadian for the set I have now. In my opinion I probably could have bought a FL for the same $$ or saved myself $1000.00 and just bought a $600.00 standard set. Oh well, you live and learn I guess!

Hi AMS! You're getting brave and creative;) If you stay with IKEA for this, I'd hack a 24" base for MW with drawer. It comes with a shelf, the Forbattra cover strip and fasteners that you'll need to use as horizontal filler piece. Not sure which model FP dishdrawer you want, but I'd do the tall height which requires a cavity of 18"H x 23 5/8W x 22 1/16"D. I would mount it at the top with one 10" drawer at the bottom (add an inner drawer if you want). This makes the installation hack easier and no worries about water ruining the drawer base and front. Your 36" cab to the left of the sink will give you plenty of room in the top drawer for cutlery and more. And you have the drawers by the range for cooking utensils. I'd put your wraps and tupperware in the bottom drawers below the DW. Now the hack: I would cut the two sides to meet the cutout requirements, leaving the back and 1 15/16" of the back sides intact. The filler would be cut and attached between the opening and the drawer (18" dishdrawer + 2" filler + 10" drawer = 30"). If you try it this way you can still mount the cab to the rail and to the sink cabinet and 12" pullout cabinet. I would add a Fixa countertop support fixture on each of those two cabinets to make up for the missing cabinet sides. Of course, you could still do a 5" above and below, but it will be a more complex install and I'd plan to get extra drawer fronts and bottoms. I would apply the moisture tape to the bottom of the top drawer too. You could apply the same installation hack as above but swapping the bottom drawer for a low maximera with 5" front and adding the 5" at the top. You'd still have 2" of filler. Hope this makes sense! Let us know what you decide!! Hello to benjesbride!! Hope you and the family are well! Great to see you!