Make sure you take ag and ag business courses in college. Many farmers start out in the same boat you are in. The typical progression that I see is to start out renting land and buy your own small homestead as soon as you can--which you would already have. Then continue to rent nearby land while you build up to a size you can handle without getting too much, and replace rented land with purchased land as the opportunity arises. Renting is also a way to control risk--you can expand or cut back acreage relatively quickly and without risking a lot of money doing it. Once you have a homestead so that you don't find yourself having to move at inopportune times, then you can build up to purchase additional land or continue to rent land--there are emotional considerations--but rent vs buy is also a business decision with pro's and con's to each depending on your business model. A lot of farmland is priced based on other factors than its productive value--the biggest factor probably being its proximity to population centers and therefore its value for subdivision. So, inexpensive land is often cheap because you are far from markets or in climates where your ability to produce high value truck garden crops is limited. From your stated preferences, you want to produce high value crops (fruit, veggies, etc) rather than commodities (field corn, soybeans, etc) so will need to be located relatively close to populations sizable enough to absorb your production. With these crops you will need to select ones with a high value per acre which also means you shouldn't need a lot of acres--your production methods will probably limit the acreage you can handle. Truck garden usually involves a lot of labor and can be even more labor intensive if you choose to follow the "organic" marketing model rather than conventional production. The good news is, once you start buying land, the high value crops should generate the kind of revenue needed to pay for that land.

Seeds- I habitually try to "hold some over" just in case I do not get the lil ones to grow on- and that is if there is enough to do that with- and I really want to try that plant. There are many more seeds that will keep a high germination rate for years- there are a few though that are best sown fresh- a little research should give you the info you need to know to save or sow. Now- with established plants that I collect seeds from- I try to get those seeds out there to folks who may want to try them. Swaps- Exchanges- and bringing them to other gardeners and garden groups I know. Seedlings- I grow on what I can find room for- and seem to add new beds every year.... But I do offer up MANY MANY seedlings/plants to friends and gardeners and garden groups for their sales- and bring to local exchanges in the spring and fall. It is a good feeling to be able to share what you have with others. And when you can do that on a large scale- well- the feeling is even better! Every year- there are far too many seeds to try- and far too many seedlings to plant- but- there are also many more new people to meet and share the wealth with also. Last year- my sister found a country food shelf that actually wanted all the excess vegi seedlings I started to give to their folks in need. Had I know that was an option open to me- I would have started every vegi seed I had to give to them! As it was- they had a bunch to share around. Last year was the first year that I had plants still in their sowing containers come fall. It was a bit sad to see the lost potential of those that did not get planted soon enough- but- I did get them planted. It is a bit much to be planting out seedlings all summer long- but know you are not alone- there are many of us in this forum who's "eyes" are bigger than their garden beds (look at some spring and summer past posts)... And- there are ways to not be wasteful- Share- Swap- Give- Enjoy! And, if it comes down to it- compost. Natures way of using what was- to give to what will be. Enjoy your new WS experience- plant with abandon! Share your joy! Julie

I would contact your local ag folks and ask them, there may be some grants available, take a magnifying glass for the small writing-they may require you to grow a certain crop for x amount of years, or get involved in your land more than you'd like. Take a few courses in bookkeeping and find a mentor if you can. Perhaps you could look into starting a CSA, where your future customers buy into part of the farm & in return they get a % of your produce weekly. It's not easy to make ends meet on a farm and it's a lot of work. I personally feel that vegetables are much easier than livestock, but that is just my opinion. As far as what to grow, I would choose 2 targeted vegetables and add as I grew. Maybe pumpkins or butternut squash & tomatoes, research what your customers prefer. I would also set up a small greenhouse to grow plant starts to sell in the spring. How will you maintain the organics of the organic produce? This is something you should research & make sure it's sustainable in your area. I guess I'm not clear on just what you are asking nor if I was much help. Brenda

I am not the heat pump expert but I will give you my opinion on some of your questions. Most people on this forum view Goodman as a second tier brand. The prices for the equipment is generally cheaper and is preferred brand of low cost installers. The prices you have received for the Goodman quotes seem high. Trane is a well respected equipment especially in the area of heat pumps. However installation is very important. You should not just concentrate on a brand and ignore the capability of the contractor. I think some of your model numbers are incorrect. Check them again. You want the model number of every piece of equipment . This includes the heat pump, coil, and air handler. The quote is not complete without the correct model numbers. I am not a fan of humidifiers or electrostatic filters. I agree they become expensive maintenance items. If you want good humidity control in the summer then I suggest getting a 2-stage heat pump. Low humidity in the winter usually is caused by outside air infiltration. Houses built on slabs tend to be drier than those built with basements and crawl spaces. If you think your house is tight, then there are some good humidifiers on the market which can work well if properly installed. I suggest getting a 4 inch media filter instead of an electrostatic filter. A MERV 8 fitler is fine, but you could move up to a MERV 10 if you think it helps your asthma.