Revereware copper bottoms and BlueStar

11 years ago

I'm revamping our 1986 kitchen, and still have and use our Revere copper clad bottom pots and pans from before then. Gettting a BlueStar range, and wondering if my old pans be up to the task? They are in great shape, and I'd love to keep using them if I could, but I saw an ad for a 10 piece set of "Demeyere Industry 5" at Sur La table. Are these worth the price? (a grand for a ten piece set) Would these be better suited? Maybe I should wait and cook on the Revere and see how well they perform, but not having cooked with anything else, how would I compare?? I should add I'm currently cooking on an old Thermador open burner, with one 12k BTU burner, and three 9k's. Quite a jump to the BlueStar with two 22k's a 15k, and a 9k

This post was edited by ctycdm on Thu, Feb 7, 13 at 10:15

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (6)

sushipup1
11 years ago
My old Revereware was pretty thin on the bottom when I got my new rangetop. The new pans I got have a much better bottom construction, from Costco, a set for about $200, and I didn't even need/use several items in the set.

I sure would not pay $1000 for any set of anything. Get it piece by piece, and get only what you need and will actually use. Sets are almost always overrated.

Yes, try the old stuff first. And check the Cooking Forum, too. Almost everyone has mixed sets and that includes Lodge cast iron, enameled cast-iron like LeCrueset, maybe a non-stick fry pan or two for eggs, and a mix of other items.

Enjoy your new toy!
anoriginal
11 years ago
Sister has "VINTAGE" set of copper-bpttpm Revere-ware from house we grew up in... from late 40's-early 50's. Two sauce pans (with lids), a decent sized skillet and SMALL "stock pot"... also with lids.

She has it at her rental place in WV mountains... but not out for renters. Since most renters are more the "non-stick" type cook... she doesn't want pieces totally destroyed.
Related Discussions
1200cfm oversized hood...Overkill for 30" BlueStar range?
Q
Comments (47)
Well, "any" is potentially a very small amount, and I'm sure that there is some slight amount. My attic, however, is vented all around the periphery, at the ridge, and also with an attic fan housing. Ice dams at the roof edges tend to occur when the outside air warms up during the day and heats the snow bottom up through the vents instead of top down. In my present half-completed configuration, the ~ 2 x 2 ft heat exchanger sits above a Cooley and Hart 3 x 3 diffuser in a hall ceiling. There is a furnace filter taped down on top of the heat exchanger. This style of filter (Honeywell Filtrete) needs significant pressure drop to move much air through it, and I was pleased to observe that warm air doesn't seem to rise through it in the winter, or hot attic air settle through it in the summer. The sides of the heat exchanger and its plumbing are buried in insulation. When kitchen fans are running and the house is closed up, air is pulled through and the thermostats, the larger-than-typical-size Taco pump, and the furnace controls do their thing to heat the air. (The circuit is capable of well over 100k BTU/hr depending on furnace and air temperature.) The problem, as I have pointed out a few times here, is that pulling air through a filter and heat exchanger requires a pressure drop -- a drop too large for combustion appliance safety. My only combustion appliance is an oil furnace, and it now uses its own MUA system to avoid back-drafting. Nevertheless, if I were to run both kitchen fans at once at full power expecting all flow to be made up through the heat exchanger without fan boost (possibly 1400 actual cfm with restricted MUA), the pressure drop in the house causes some furnace exhaust to be pulled into the house via tiny cracks not normally relevant when there is a positive draft, so I don't do dat without an opened window. My intention is to duct the heat exchanger to a mushroom air intake already installed on my roof via an axial in-line fan and a four-inch pleated filter caddy so that at the maximum possible flow rate (possibly 2000 cfm, say) the house pressure can be balanced and all the MUA comes from outside without mingling with the attic air. A damper may be needed, although as noted, the Filtrete coating will be pretty resistant to air passage without some deliberate pressure drop from the in-line fan. kas
...See More
Best 36" Cooktop, BlueStar? Something better?
Q
Comments (16)
Just went through the Blustar "cooktop vs rangetop" research myself, just bought a 30" cook top, but not installed yet. The grates on the cooktop are exactly the same as on the rangetop, so you lo se nothing in cooking space (unlike other brands). Re wok cooking, you can remove the grate and that leaves a perfect bowl that fits the bottom of the wok (there is a video of this out on Youtube somewhere) Re dimensions: the cooktop is a bit deeper than most other cooktops - 22", so plan your countertops accordingly. It is also thicker and will take about a 9" deep cavity to hold, so you will lose a drawer below the cooktop (vs. 4" for other, lesser, cooktops). Good luck!
...See More
48" BlueStar vs Wolf DF
Q
Comments (8)
In picking out your cooking appliances, there is no one appliance that is best at everything. Cooks are a diverse lot and a very individualized assessment should be made looking at how you cook and what other needs might be considered. There are many threads on this very subject Wolf vs BS if you search back on this forum. These ranges are on opposite ends of the range spectrum. These are some of the physical differences that do not require someone using the oven to know about. BlueStar burners BTUs are higher, but unable to compare simmers because BS rated theirs by temperature, which is meaningless uncapped burners- if you wok, this feature allows the flame to go straight up, more to the middle. This allows more heat to the middle of the wok. The cap on Wolf causes more flare on the highest heat. star shape burner- burner ports are dispersed over greater area open burner tray with pull out underneath -some people have strong opinions about which is easier to clean. BlueStar oven gas oven- although moisture is released as a product of combustion, the oven requires more ventilation so that moisture and moisture from what is cooking along with more heat go out of the oven into the kitchen. Because this removes more moisture superficially from whatever is cooking it promote the Maillard and other reactions that produce browning. convection is simple, on and off no other cooking modes much bigger oven, holds a full commercial baking sheet or 2 half sheets infrared broiler-hot but smaller Wolf Ring burners-dual stacked so it allows for a different range of heat on each burner. This keeps the spread of a sealed burner down. sealed burner tray-again strong opinions about which is easier to clean black enamel capped burner, more spread than BS but not as much as something like 5star The cap and sealed tray were developed to make burners easier to clean in the 1980s but not everyone thinks it easier to clean less BTUs on the top rating, but very low simmer If you are wanting a built in griddle Wolf's infrared heat source is superior because it provides even heat to the griddle which is rolled steel and will tend to hot spot. Wolf oven Electric oven-More of a closed system so holds onto the moisture from what you are baking. This can give a longer rise for what you are baking but if you have been using a gas oven, you might not notice this as much. Computer boards are necessary to control direction of heat from top, bottom or back(called true or Euro convection) elements. The oven cycles through all of them but more from the bottom from baking and more from the top for roasting . There are also two fan speeds. Not everyone likes having all of the electronics. The oven is much smaller. The broiler is much bigger. Sad to say this and any blue enamel lined Wolf product has the problem of chipping from to time. It has been going on for 10 years and there are a few class action lawsuits going on. That last one reported here was about a month ago on a range about a month old. I have the Wolf DF and I did like the oven until it chipped. The burners worked for me because the flare was just right for bigger pans and I have very heat conductive pans (aluminum and copper) so don't need the star burner. I would love to replace this but have not found any dual fuel ranges that I have confidence in. I have used real commercial ranges, one with star burners. It had no simmer and BS users report the simmer to be good. If I were buying now, I would buy a rangetop and separate wall ovens. You can pick what is best in each. I would pick electric because I do bake a lot. I can use the fan to have that evaporative loss you have in a gas oven. You would most likely be better served with BS burners and the gas oven would be good for what you bake and roast, except cakes so aside from ergonomic issues with a wall vs range oven, the range would work for you.
...See More
Viking, BlueStar, La Cornue, Kitchenaid? Help choosing a range ASAP
Q
Comments (68)
" Because all you non pros say it's ok, then that must mean it's ok? As opposed to listening to the Pros on this forum or doing your own research by asking in the appliance forum?" Wait, what makes someone a non pro vs one of the "Pros on this forum" and is that different from having PRO under your picture? Only one person with PRO under their picture has answered here. It is actually their "pros" telling them it is OK. Are you saying that "non pros" giving their subjective opinion is somehow invalid? Are you saying if you are a "Pro on this forum", whatever that means, your word is infallible? I think no matter who you profess to be, you have to make a case for what you are saying. If I were doing this now, I would have a few questions myself. It's a lot of money especially if you have to install makeup air. There are a lot of ways to calculate how much ventilation is needed but how are these ways and numbers validated? I think this is the thread mentioned above that has the comments by kaseki(no PRO under his picture). He references certain people that have worked in this field. https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/5161173/hood-faq#n=21 "Any ventilation hood over 400 CFM requires MUA. Your locally adopted amendments to code can be stricter, but not more lenient." Some codes, ours in particular, call for it at 600 CFM, so you really have to see if it is required in your location and what the requirements are. This is our code. Not everyone needs the motorized version. I don't think makeup air was required when I put my fan in, at least none of the inspectors said anything. I have not had any issues anywhere or blow back from the wood stove. We have a lot of open areas in our house. I do think I have naturally supplied makeup air with a gravity damper. ;-)) It is also close to the furnace. We went to a restaurant recently with no makeup air and a giant hood. I could not pull the door open, until my husband pulled on it too and we broke the suction. Not good!
...See More
angie_diy
11 years ago
I do turn the full fury of my Bluestar loose on my Revereware all the time. However, I only have Revereware pots, which are obviously filled with liquids. A frying pan would be a stiffer test, but I don't have one.
berkeleydan
11 years ago
My poor mother still uses Revereware on her Wolf cooktop. She can burn water with that garbage.

Buy some decent cookware that does your range justice. Industry 5 is not great, but it's better than what you have, and it's simpler to say 'yeah buy that' than to explain the value of a mixed set (debuyer+falk/demeyere atlantis+staub+lodge) of quality cookware.
arley_gw
11 years ago
Ditto what berkeleydan sez. I have a Capital Culinarian, and it is very responsive. You'll find that the responsiveness of your pans makes a difference in your cooking.

If you haven't stumbled across the posting at the link, do take 20 minutes or so to read it. You'll be far better informed than the average cooking store salesperson.

Some of your decisions will be guided by what type of cooking you do. If you make a lot of thermally sensitive sauces, then it might be worthwhile to invest in some brutally expensive but wonderful Falk Culinair copper/stainless or All Clad Copper Core; if you never do that, it would most likely be a waste of money.

I don't really recommend a 'set'--while it's nice, invariably there are some items you won't use. Buy what you want to fill a specific need. Skillets, for example: I have some Sams Club nonstick ones, some well seasoned cast iron ones, and a Paderno carbon steel one; none are expensive.

The copper on the bottom of Revere ware isn't really enough to affect the thermal transfer very much. For warming stuff up, they're okay, but you can do so much more with a good range that they might be holding you back. You don't have to spend a lot to get good pans, but you have to know what it is you plan to accomplish in your cooking. For instance, for low/slow braises Le Creuset enameled cast iron (ECI) is wonderful. I have some, but I also have some Lodge ECI and I don't see a huge difference in performance between the two; certainly not enough to justify the difference in cost.

If you do want a set, FWIW Consumer Reports raved about the Costco Kirkland stainless pots. I've never cooked with them, but I have seen them up close--they are nice and hefty and seem well made. Certainly a step up from Revere ware. (But I don't seem to see them on the Costco website at present...maybe they're no longer available)

Here is a link that might be useful: understanding stovetop cookware
wekick
11 years ago
There is a big difference in Revereware. The oldest type had a lot more copper than what it has now. They cut the amount in half in the sixties and reduced it to just a flashing now. The old stuff generally will have rivits in the handle and is much heavier. I can't find anywhere how thick the copper is but it does heat evenly. I have a few pieces I like- some saucepans and a couple of "stockpots" with bail handles a handle on the bottom.
I would agree with collecting different pieces over time. Here is another article on cookware and its properties. I have some cast iron, aluminum, multi-ply, heavy copper and steel.

Here is a link that might be useful: Common materials of cookware

Revereware copper bottoms and BlueStar

Comments (6)

sushipup1

anoriginal

Related Discussions

angie_diy

berkeleydan

arley_gw

wekick

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US