Thank you all for posting the pictures -- it helps me visualize. The look definitely works for transitional or traditional cabinetry. I'm still trying to figure out if a modern look requires wider. Fouramblues, I asked my architect and GC a few times about whether our city has a MUA requirement. They both said they had never heard of one (and they both appear to be allergic to research). I tried researching myself online without any luck. We live in SoCal (no AC) and leave the kitchen window open most of the year for fresh air, so that is our MUA plan, lol. We also have a 50-year-old house that is not even close to air tight. Secondhalf, is that the Kobe RA-02-1? Are you satisfied with the finish? I was considering the 42" 1000 CFM version of that hood. I could only find 1 Kobe hood in a local store. It was a different model (pyramid with straight corner instead of beveled) and there was a visible seam all the way up the "corner" where the front panel overlapped the sides panel (i.e., the pyramid part was made with 3 pieces of metal instead of 1). Is that how your hood is constructed, or is the lower part seamless? Also, how much space do you have between your uppers and the hood? GreenDesigns, I thought I could offset size with higher CFMs. Would I be better off with a 42" 715 CFM hood? One hood in my budget that I find aesthetically pleasing (other than the mesh filters) is the Zephyr Venezia. I'm not sure I will ever use the grill on the range, as we grill outdoors year round. I only bought that model because it was a floor model at 35% off. If I had realized what venting my "bargain" range would cost, I would have skipped it. Now I wish I had bought induction, as it would have been cheaper to replace all my pots and pans if I could use a simple 600 CFM hood.

From the KP manual The Turbo Boil burner (18k BTU) is the most powerful burner for cooking in larger pots, for canning, for large amounts of soup, or for boiling water, and it is located at the right front of the cooktop. • The Simmer burner (5k BTU) is best suited for simmering delicate sauces, and so on, and it is located at the right back of the cooktop. • The Power burner (12k BTU) is recommended for bringing large quantities of liquid to temperature and when preparing larger quantities of food, and it is located at the left front of the cooktop. • One standard burner (7.5k BTU) may be used for most surface cooking needs, being designed to fit most cookware. It is located at the left back of the cooktop. • The Simmer Oval burner is located in the center of the cooktop and consists of a center burner (the 5k BTU Oval Simmer burner) and an oval burner, consisting of two, 12k burners. The center, Oval Simmer, burner can be set separately from the overall Simmer Oval burner. This is badly written bc it makes you think the center consists of 5+12+12 but does this actually mean the center is 5+12 = 17? If so, total of 59. If not, and center is 12, then 54. I am looking at all gas too.

Not sure if you’ve already selected your range hood. I do a lot of Asian wok cooking too, and that’s one of the main reasons we bought BlueStar 36” RNB (just stainless steel) last month. With the appliance store salesperson’s recommendations, we paired it with Best by Broan PK22 insert pro-range hood - 1200cfm on internal blower. It worked fantastic and low noise on low and medium settings, the highest setting is kinda loud but i can live with it as i can still keep the same tv volume in another room. We had our hvac contractor to put in the new 10” duct to the exterior of the house and a makeup air component as part of our county requirement. We did consider Bluestar range hoods to pair with but we didnt see the need to spend that extra $ since we can still achieve great results with this particular Broan hood which is less than half the price of a BS one. For us, the installation costs adds up too, especially we‘ve never had an external duct in the kitchen as we use to have a microwave hood.

I may have left out some words due to repetition. The number of square feet refers to the entry aperture of the hood. For example, a 36 x 24 hood aperture would be 6 square feet, and would require 6 x 90 = 360 CFM actual, likely needing a blower rated at 540 CFM. Pressure loss not only entails the ducting, but the baffles and the MUA path. Leaky walls are not exactly a free path for air. A leaky house may be sufficient for MUA in practice (given that the blower rating takes the pressure loss into account), but the OP may live where aggressive code enforcement will demand at least a damper in a duct to the outside. The rationale for 90 ft/min is based on ensuring entrainment into baffle gaps that typically are around 50% of the baffle area and have to deal with upward plume velocities of as much as 1.2 m/s. See also the table (Figure 4) on page 9 of the Greenheck Guide available here: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf The discussion leading to that table should prove useful for background information. In particular, the Greenheck method vs. the linear feet of hood edge (all the way around for an island hood) method is discussed. (Note commercial cooking rarely is true island type; even located in the middle of a kitchen the hood is connected to the cooktop via a back section. There may also be side skirts on the hood.) Last, let me point out that capture can fail under cross draft conditions, which are almost always worse for island/peninsula configurations than wall configurations.