24" oc is not a "cheaper" solution, as in not as good of quality house...its simply a different and SLIGHTLY more energy efficient solution, depending on the details. True AF wants 1-2"+ of XPS sheathing, using either osb or cross strapping for shear bracing. Determining your ideal exterior insulation thickness depends on your climate zone, and how you want to handle interior wall condensation. Drywall clips, properly sized headers, etc are all part of the equation that the builder needs to do. AF is not intended to be mixed with 16" spacing. AF, using 2x6 walls, is structurally sound, assuming it is done correctly. Trusses align with 2x6, which align with floor structure, which carry the full point loads to your foundation. It does reduce the thermal bridging slightly in the walls, as well as replace some of the wood with more insulation. However IMO all houses in at least cool and cold climates should be using exterior XPS over whatever structural surface is in place, whether its osb over studs or no osb. I read these forums and too many people get caught up in R value and adding more insulation (actually most do not care about efficiency at all..."i am building efficient- 2x6 walls with batts! please........). Problem with that is, insulation is not an air barrier. Any air infiltration through your walls will give you an r-0 no matter how much you stuff in there. Design the shell to stop infiltration first, then worry about insulation. Affective products are sealed and taped exterior XPS, ZIP sheathing, osb sheathing with seamed primed and taped under a house wrap, and caulk. lots of caulk. Sill and head plates, studs to sheathing, outlets, etc. The spray foam guys like to tell you their product stops infiltration. While it does to a certain degree, it doesn't stop it at the sill and head plates, in or around headers, not to mention its very expensive. You can add exterior insulation which will give you more benefits for half the price. Focus on the shell first, insulation between studs 2nd. (however when you do, use a spray product, such as cellulose or fiberglass instead of batts) Back on topic, if done correctly AF can be just as strong and stable as 16 oc spacing. However do the math. Most cases, the $ in lumber savings is only a few hundred, like others said, the costs are offset in thicker drywall and more insulation. Trimming and attachement points are easier with 16" oc spacing, but thinking ahead in the design allows you to place blocking in walls for cabinets, closets, etc.

I got the LG. It's quiet. I like the heat near the door gaskets. In the kitchen forum someone posted an image of his LG inside cabinetry. I got an extra door bin. The door held a lot before, and really holds a lot now. These door bins are reversible. You can turn them around and reattach them. One way you get a low divider wall in the front, better for taking things out more easily, great for the door bins higher up. The other way you get a high divider wall, better in terms of psychology alone. Storing things without seeing too much of them. Also in terms of psychology, it makes you feel the things stored there are more likely to be held well in case anyone ever tried to make them fall. Never happens. Just a psychology. Nothing ever flops over and falls. And the door opens easily so nobody ever has to give it a yank. Also, with the handle being where it is, it makes people use a finger or two instead of yanking with their shoulder. Little things like this make a difference. The freezer has three drawers and an ice cube tray. I fit large frozen pizzas in the freezer drawers. Also, I could remove any one of the drawers if I wanted to have a bit more space temporarily. Never happens. What was the best thing before buying it? The number of shelves and the options given to raise or lower them. Also, two separate veggie drawers. Two is best, because some organics rot when placed with certain others (there are two kinds, so two drawers keeps Type A from Type B) The meat drawer is a good thing to have. I was surprised how much difference it made in the fridge's "smells" when meat and sausages have a separate container to hold them. I also got a drawer fridge, btw. We now have too much fridge volume available, so we deliberately go hunting for large amounts of edible organics at farmers' markets. I think the air movement in my LG is good. It's minimal. It's not "Passive cooling" but almost. Better for foods. Previously my old fridge moved air too much and this caused stuff to dry out, rot, get freezer burn, etc. This has never happened in my new fridge. Things keep a long time. Leafy greens are still leafy greens after a week, or two, or three. Cheese doesn't get a hard dry crust on it where the plastic wrap is opened. Soft fruit like peaches still look good after a long time; they don't shrink and shrivel up. After researching this subject (refrigeration and the fridge business) for while, I'll say that I would trust Blomberg to have good product. From what I know of European, Asian and American fridge manufacturers. Each of the Blomberg models is quite different once you look at the mechanical systems and parts. The Summit CP171 is another good fridge, imho, based on what I've read. Passive cooling is better for foods. A Danish company (Vestfrost) makes 24" fridge-freezers that passive-cool and with two compressors on two independent circuits, all at a low price point. I saw both the "old' and the "new" Vestfrost in operation. Very good. We almost bought one. Rebranded under the name "Conserv". The cp171 is a Vestfrost or a copycat. Fagor is another 24" fridge. I heard the noises it makes, that are well described in the PDF. Apart from that, it seems like a good fridge. In terms of interior volume, use a measuring tape if you want to compare different manufacturers' products. Do not rely on numbers given to you by the manufacturers. There is a huge range of (acceptable) methods used to calculate volume, in nominal terms, not in any way related to the real volume inside the fridge. A fridge with one shelf less than another fridge will give you a great deal less space. So the number of shelves is more important than the apparent volume. In each of the topics covered above, the LG is the best. Alone or equal to others also at that level "Best". The PDF explained what I wanted to know. I found it on their web site. That clinched the deal for me. It even told me the fridge exterior would be warm near the door (among other places). Sounds like a good idea, to tell the customer where the heat goes when it gets transferred from inside the fridge to the outside. When a fridge has its heat coils all on the back wall and only there, it needs air circulation behind it, and you are forcing the system to work extra hard if you back it up close to the wall. So, to have some of the heat being evacuated all around the sides Makes Perfect Sense to me. hth

The shower in our last house was 60" wide by 34" deep from the back wall to the sliding glass door. The big glass expanse made it not feel at all closed in, but occasionally with 2 people in there I wished I had just a couple more inches of elbow room. We are doing 42" x 60" this time. I think you will be fine with 44" depth in the shower. I also think clipping the corner to make the bedroom feel more spacious is an inspired idea, and your long vanity will still look good. The area that looks tight to me is the distance from toilet to vanity. You do not want to feel like you could wash your hands without getting up. The Toto Aquia Wall-Hung Toilet projects 21 1/16" from the wall. It would be worth it to me to buy a new toilet to save over 5" in a tight space. That would leave you with about 40" between toilet and vanity, which lets you put in a decent sized door. Maybe you could do a pocket door that splits in the middle so half goes to each side? It looks like your bedroom door blocks a closet when it is open. We have that too, and it drives me nuts, so we are reversing the swing when we remodel. Depending on the placement of your bathroom door and width of the bedroom door, you may want to change the swing so the door opens towards the bathroom instead of the closet. Here is a link that might be useful: Toto Specs

Stop searching open forums and you tube videos for random opinions. There are way to many variables with individual projects that will not reflect yours. Heat, humidity, ac, tile temperature, proper procedures, amount of dry time, amount of water used in clean up, type of sponge, many more. Do a mock up made with scrap tile or try the product in a closet. Follow manufactures instructions. If you have further questions call Mapei tech line. 800-992-6273 Manufacturer video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8SA7d4DLlc Or search the internet and eventually you will find the answer that you want to hear at the risk of making yourself crazy with everyone's opinions:)