I think you're killing your lawn with kindness. I assume you have a fescue or Kentucky bluegrass lawn (or mix). It sounds like you are watering far too often. Once you get temperatures into the 90s every day, then you should be watering once per week. With temps in the 80s you should be watering once every 2 weeks. Why? Couple of reasons. One is that crabgrass seed must have continual soil moisture for several days to germinate. Without that, it cannot germinate. If you water once, deeply, the surface of the soil will become dry long before the root zone dries out. Just doing that prevents crabgrass. PREVENTS! You don't need a preemergent if you just do that. However, sometimes Mother Nature steps in to ensure there is continual moisture. That is when you might need a preemerge. The second reason is that if you water every day, the soil dries out down below and the roots only grow at the very surface. If you miss a day of watering, the soil surface can dry out and kill the grass. But if you water deeply, the grass roots will penetrate as deep as they need to to find that moisture. Growing deep roots takes time if all you have is short roots, so don't try to go cold turkey with your watering plan. You should wean the grass off of the "day and night" watering until you are watering a full inch, once per week in the summer heat. Doing that will stop most new weeds. It will not kill out the current crop of crabgrass. There are some herbicides that apparently work. I'm an organic kind of guy and have not had appreciable weed problem in a long time, so I don't keep up with herbicides. Someone else will come along and help with that. What I would do is suffer along through the summer. Then in early September (in your area) I would kill off the crabgrass, rake it up, reseed, and try to establish as dense a turf as you can before next spring. Crabgrass is an annual plant so it has to come back from seed. If you are watering correctly next year, then you can have all the seed you want but it won't sprout on the dry soil surface. Crabgrass is lighter color than most turf grasses. That might be what you see. Otherwise, have you fertilized? Usually that evens things out. If you want an absolutely hassle free fertilizer, use organic anything. My favorite is alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). Get it at your feed store in a 50-pound bag for about $15. Apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Since it comes in a plain bag, there are no directions to read and hassle with. Just apply at 20 per 1,000 and let Nature take Her course. In 3 weeks the grass will become much greener, more dense, and will be growing slightly faster. Here is a demonstration picture taken by mrmumbles a couple years ago. Organic is also no hassle because you cannot over apply it. If you double the dose, it just lasts longer. If you apply as much as 80 pounds per 1,000 all at one time, you do run the risk of smothering the grass - not to mention severely denting your lawn care budget.

Thanks Vagas and Tclynx. I had the cocoons in a plastic bag w/o air or food. Just worm doo and cocoons which aren't that recognizable to me yet. I could not imagine leaving them in the plastic bag vagas, so I prepared a bed of peat moss/a couple cups of cornmeal/ and a couple cups of wellllll rotted bagged cow manure that has been laying out in the weather for about 3 years/and a few handfuls of small shredded paper to break up all that dirt looking stuff. Well Mixed and damp. I poured the plastic bag of worm cocoons out onto this mixture in the bin and covered it with a layer of dry shredded paper. I did put some drain holes in the bottom, and I did put another container w/o holes under that to capture any liquid excess or baby worms that might fall through and of course the brick to keep the upper plastic container from falling down below the air holes. And I did put a soaked piece of cardboard box down in my bin to cover the holes for the babies to lay on,first thing. I did that about 3 days ago with the cocoons and I don't see any babies yet, but since I am still afraid I will damage them if I put my hands down in the mixture to look, that doesn't mean they aren't there, I'm sure. In the meantime, I am down to opening and looking at the worms only about 3 times a day and that IS a struggle for me. I put the 3 containers together like Vaga said. The worms are awfully skinny and aren't moving too fast just yet. It has been only about a week and a half since I put them(1000) in there and NOW I can see that they are eating the bedding up and pretty quickly. So, Friday, I set the second prepared container that makes the tiered bin on top of that W/Oa brick (The worms around outside are all laying under heavy stuff so I figured the small weight of the container could be helpful) and I put about 1/2 lb or less of kitchen scraps and coffee grounds and of course shredded paper in it in case they wanted more to eat. They really are skinny. I have never seen such skinny little worms. I am sure they must grow (red wigglers)bigger. Anyway, Today when I looked at them, I DID find that they are migrating up into the food...or at least about 20 of them have so far. Out of fear that they would attempt to escape and inadvertantly commit suicide, I placed the whole 3 layer bin in a large black garbage bag leaving it open and loose in case they try to explore outside the box while I am gone. That way, I won't find them dried up on the floor or step on them. Once I saw that they weren't trying to get away, I took the bin out of the bag. Not one fatality due to escape...not one worm in the bag either. =o) So, I am learning not to sit and prowl through their bedding to see what they are doing.....all the time. Just nervous about them I guess. Trial and error is the way of life, I suppose. I will either get more worms, or they will not do well for me. Thanks so much for your input. It helps to know that you guys are out there willing to share the information with me. =o)

You are wise to ask questions becasue you have a serious systems issue priority. This is classic example of why everyone needs to get your appliance specs and HVAC and electricians involved before beginning to design, especially if you want the commercial sized gas ranges. (Which you did.) Not every home can or should have gas or oversized appliances. Choosing the commercial lines adds huge costs for ventilation safety. Most people have no idea that a fan is as important as any other appliance. Call a few MORE HVAC companies and get them out to look and get some quotes. I cannot imagine any one with a gas ticket is putting in a line without checking the whole home balance, including the fan over your gas range and the range you chose. You simply cannot have gas without direct venting. You may have to compromise your range and change your BTU's or even go to induction. You need to hire a local Kitchen and Bath designer who will work with the HVAC contractor to get what you need and hopefully what you want. There are far too many details that are not even listed by yourself to address on line. Realistically, any advice here should be to have another qualified tradesperson look at it on site and work from there. This is one area where Houzz advice is not beneficial compared with a qualified tradesperson on site. Once you have this resolved and can pick the best appliance for your needs and wants then... we design. Best wishes and good on you for sharing your dilemma.

This plant is a noxious weed here (and many other places). It usually takes over very wet areas, or shallow water. The only problem from over watering would be if your temperatures are too low. That plant is still very small so could indicate low temperatures and/or light levels too low.