Two Cost questions: Building Plans, & 1 Level vs. 2 Level Homes:
rachelpants
14 years ago
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mightyanvil
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Which 3000 sq ft 2 level plan would you rather live in?
Comments (24)Kirkhall, I actually agree with you, but I have heard that prep is 80% of the work. Plus DH, who is also in the kitchen, prepping, cleaning, etc likes the idea of facing the TV while washing dishes and prepping. Me, I like that I was able to shave 3 ft off the plan - and was a little worried having a 17 ft wide dining area - seems a little wide for a 6 seating table. Approx 14ish seems more reasonable (kind of like plan 1). I am kind of neutral to which way it faces actually and see advantages both ways. The only arrangement I am actually not that fond of is kitchen, dining and great room all in a row left to right. As far as fridge placement, I can work that out if it's not ideal. It was just a quick revision. Thanks for the link to CamG's house. I like the upstairs, and it could work with a few modifications. But both DH and myself do not want a WIC off the bathroom, we need a soaker tub as well as shower for the master, no water closet, and I would like a master 17-18 ft wide and a width of about 15 or so. The rest of the upstairs would be flexible I think. I would welcome any more opinions about the modified summerfield plan (hallway etc) vs plan 1 (no real utility hallway) . I think these are my 2 working choices at this point....See MoreFlat island vs. 2 level... crazy thinking 2 might be better?
Comments (31)Like Holly says, it is a function of how you live. My stuff collects on the desk/tiny office which is not in the kitchen but slightly outside of the main kitchen. If the stuff lands on the island, we just move the stuff to the desk.... We don't ask anyone to claim it, we just move it... Dropped junk does not bother me since I don't need the surface to cook. I clear it daily but it does not impede the 'kitchen function'. So it works for us. Many people are taking the kitchen desks out of their kitchens. I actually like having a designated drop zone/kitchen office area because it keeps the junk out of the kitchen. If your habits do not change, the stuff will get dropped on the upper zone of the island just like they do in many homes I walk into. When I see that in people's homes, it just seems like a huge waste of real estate where the upper level is a huge planned drop zone and nothing else. I like my way where there is a 'planned' drop zone slightly outside of the kitchen. Most people need a safety net. To me a well planned drop zone is a safety net for those of us that cannot be so disciplined about everything. I pick up my stuff at the end of the day, but it allows me the latitude to leave it there couple days without driving me nuts or getting in the way of cooking. Most homes that manage to keep the kitchen counter clear have a near by office/desk/drop zone where there is a pile of junk/paper. I know very few families that can live pile-free. Fourkids4us: one of my first remodels was to cut up my gigantic pantry into a smaller pantry and a kitchen desk/office/command center. This was the best thing I did. I made sure that I kept that functionality when I did the big remodel. I can't imagine not having a command center near the kitchen in a family home!...See MoreCost of building - comparing two plans
Comments (23)It sounds like it's just you living in the home most of the time, right? The first house that my husband and I ever bought was 800 square feet. We lived in it with two dogs and never felt like it was cramped (aside from the lack of closet space which was par for the course in a house built in 1910). I'm a big fan of smaller homes if they are well-designed and not so tiny that it feels silly. One of my favorite small home architects is Ross Chapin. Check out his website. He builds pocket neighborhoods of smaller homes, but also has a ton of plans on his website. I think that you can do better than what you're currently looking at, but think that you're on the right path. Be careful that in your quest to build as cheaply as possible that you don't end up with a house that isn't very livable, especially as you age....See More2-stage/2-zone vs 1-stage/1-zone & foam vs fiberglass ?
Comments (12)Those prices are high. When you pay that much for HVAC, it really makes sense to superinsulate and then just use electric baseboards. Even 1/2 of $17k would get the structure to a level where you could fully heat with electric baseboards for what you want for $100 a year. If you need a/c, do a minisplit for $4000 installed and that $100 goes to $30. By superinsulate - sprayfoam is not it. In your climate, you want R40 walls which is achieved by 12 inch thick walls with cellulose/fiberglass or 3-4 inches of rigid foam on top of 2x4 wall. Sprayfoam has its place but filling a cavity with it is not what it is best for. Are you really looking at R20 walls? Is that even code? Or is there rigid foam that you have also? There are no drafts in a modern wall - fiberglass or not. $8k for sprayfoam is a waste. If it is 2 inches of rigid foam on the outside - then it is not. My walls in NC are zip R3 over fiberglass bibs in 2x6. The small amount of rigid foam just helps with the thermal bridging of the framing. The bibs fill voids much better than batts. It is blown in. We have foam in small areas that bibs would not work with. I think $10k did our 3800 sqft house (not counting the zip R which was $3k upcharge over zip). I would think you would want R-80 in the roof which is probably best achieved by rigid foam over the sheathing given the rafter space needed. Or you could just do code minimum and minisplit with electric baseboard back up it since it isn't full time use....See Morechisue
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