Two Cost questions: Building Plans, & 1 Level vs. 2 Level Homes:
rachelpants
15 years ago
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mightyanvil
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Which 3000 sq ft 2 level plan would you rather live in?
Comments (24)Kirkhall, I actually agree with you, but I have heard that prep is 80% of the work. Plus DH, who is also in the kitchen, prepping, cleaning, etc likes the idea of facing the TV while washing dishes and prepping. Me, I like that I was able to shave 3 ft off the plan - and was a little worried having a 17 ft wide dining area - seems a little wide for a 6 seating table. Approx 14ish seems more reasonable (kind of like plan 1). I am kind of neutral to which way it faces actually and see advantages both ways. The only arrangement I am actually not that fond of is kitchen, dining and great room all in a row left to right. As far as fridge placement, I can work that out if it's not ideal. It was just a quick revision. Thanks for the link to CamG's house. I like the upstairs, and it could work with a few modifications. But both DH and myself do not want a WIC off the bathroom, we need a soaker tub as well as shower for the master, no water closet, and I would like a master 17-18 ft wide and a width of about 15 or so. The rest of the upstairs would be flexible I think. I would welcome any more opinions about the modified summerfield plan (hallway etc) vs plan 1 (no real utility hallway) . I think these are my 2 working choices at this point....See MoreQuestion...add-on 1 large single level or smaller 2 level, $$$?
Comments (10)I guess it's still not clear. The 2 story would NOT be adding onto existing foundation. It would be a two story addition on a whole new foundation and I'm trying to figure out if it's cheaper to do one large room addition (new large foundation) or a totally new two story addition tied it into our current house (new smaller foundation). I'm located in the northeast just outside Boston. I would try to plan on just a slab foundation, we already have a basement, and there's no reason to enlarge it. The plan would be for a single floor addition: expand the half bath on the first floor to a full bath and add on a family room and small bedroom. For a 2 story addition, have the family room on the bottom floor and the bedroom above it. We could still either expand the 1/2 bath on the first floor to a full bath or add on a small full bath upstairs too. (we already have a full bath upstairs, but we'll really need an additonal shower in the future as the kids get older). It seems like there's conflicting info here....with a 2 story it would be less foundation and less roofing, but I know a two story addition probably requires a stronger foundation and the strength of the ceiling to hold up the second floor....See More2-stage/2-zone vs 1-stage/1-zone & foam vs fiberglass ?
Comments (12)Those prices are high. When you pay that much for HVAC, it really makes sense to superinsulate and then just use electric baseboards. Even 1/2 of $17k would get the structure to a level where you could fully heat with electric baseboards for what you want for $100 a year. If you need a/c, do a minisplit for $4000 installed and that $100 goes to $30. By superinsulate - sprayfoam is not it. In your climate, you want R40 walls which is achieved by 12 inch thick walls with cellulose/fiberglass or 3-4 inches of rigid foam on top of 2x4 wall. Sprayfoam has its place but filling a cavity with it is not what it is best for. Are you really looking at R20 walls? Is that even code? Or is there rigid foam that you have also? There are no drafts in a modern wall - fiberglass or not. $8k for sprayfoam is a waste. If it is 2 inches of rigid foam on the outside - then it is not. My walls in NC are zip R3 over fiberglass bibs in 2x6. The small amount of rigid foam just helps with the thermal bridging of the framing. The bibs fill voids much better than batts. It is blown in. We have foam in small areas that bibs would not work with. I think $10k did our 3800 sqft house (not counting the zip R which was $3k upcharge over zip). I would think you would want R-80 in the roof which is probably best achieved by rigid foam over the sheathing given the rafter space needed. Or you could just do code minimum and minisplit with electric baseboard back up it since it isn't full time use....See MoreTub Leveling: Mud vs Self-Leveling?
Comments (9)@Avanti Respectfully, you have missed part of my inquiry. Per my three questions posed in the original post, I am considering using self-leveling to address the slope in the floor before setting the tub. Therefore, again, have you used self-leveling over OSB, and if so, what brand did you explicitly use? I am seeking alternatives to afford myself multiple options. If the answer is “No”, that’s fine. Although, please let's stay on topic We're getting further away from my original post when I am also not requesting instructions (see original post) but rather recommendations for alternative products (explicit brand names) based on one own’s experience that are OSB-friendly - provided options seem limited. Note: As mentioned in my original post, the only lightweight OSB-compatible self-leveling that I could identify - whether at Home Depot or otherwise given I have searched brands sold at Big Box stores, smaller local or regional retailers, and online-based retailers - including brands like Laticrete - and even communicated with an array of manufacturing reps - is by Custom Building Products....See Morechisue
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