clinresga, You are so sweet to look out for me and give Chelsea a heads up, I'm so appreciative, thank you. I think the person I first talked to was Kelsey but I didn't get her name down properly so now feel like an idiot. I'm so tempted to use chelsea's direct number hmmm but really feel funny since she didn't give it to me directly and I'm not sure I should have it? But then again who cares, I want, need and gotta have my future, Lucy, Danielle, hmmm gotta think of a name now. LOL And I don't even have it yet. LOL. Chelsea must be use to desperate owners of Lancanche's want to be's. Frangipane was one of my color choices I'm thinking about. The woman on the phone said it was like a Kaki? Is that true? I'm also leaning toward, "Marron Glace". She said it was her favorite color. If it really looks like a light brown I will fall in love with it because it would match my granite perfectly like the Kaki color as well. I just had to go to Lacanche's french web site and it's very nice. I put the link for it below. I see a different model in their line that's not here and wonder if that's the one that may be here soon? However I'm not going to wait since I've seen to many price increases I think its time to buy and wait no longer. pluckymama, I guess it's just luck of the draw who I ended up talking to on my first call. I will ask for Chelsea from now on. And you may be right on the vacations right now. Although they are, or rather Lacanche factory has extended favorable prices until aug 1st and I wonder if they are on overload for orders before than. Colors I'm thinking of are Marron Glace or Frangipane. But to be honest with you I love them all! The color palette is truly beautiful I must say. I'm not worried though I know Art Culinaire will come through for me. I will be calling often to get things moving. Projective delivery date if I order before Aug 1st is sometime in November. It would be nice to have it before Christmas. I hope it works out that way. Take care and thank you clinresga and pluckymama, Terry;-)

I bought my Cluny on Craig's list. This price is thousands more than I paid- but there are other considerations. If you could drive to pick it up you would save a significant amount on shipping. You wouldn't have to wait months for delivery, either. That's a french top, not a griddle, but I can see why you thought it was a griddle.

If you have been reading posts here, you probably have seen what I have to say about LaCanche, the Citeaux. So I will be brief. I am very happy with the look of the stove. I was not crazy about how it is finished on the sides for my kind of install (free standing). I have had two service issues and they take for-e-ver to be resolved. One is that you need to be a safecracker to turn on my gas oven; they are replacing the knob today and the repairman told me it has been a problem on these stoves. Two, my electric oven shorted out for some reason and I have been without it (and its broiler) for a month. As to your specific question about a broiler, most emphatically yes you need a broiler. There are all kinds of things you want to make that need broiling to really be done right. From something as mundane as garlic bread or london broil, to special occasion dishes like a creme brulee. Take it from someone who has been without for a while!

I think, snafu mcsnurf, that the question to be answered first is whether the outer shell (surround) that is to receive the insert is combustible (e.g., wood cabinet continuation) or non-combustible (some metal structure). In the latter case, the outer shell can act as part of the overall hood function by capturing and funneling the plume to the insert containing the baffles. In the former case, the wood must be covered on the interior and I would argue for covering the bottom edge even if beyond the combustible distance limit specified by the stove fabricator. I imagine that a sheet metal shop could build an insert extension for a wood surround that would mate with a 'standard' insert. Lighting may be a problem is one has to reach too far up into the hood. However, all this sizing really needs to start with some fundamentals, so let me go over them again. For more detail, read the hood threads in this forum back to 2008. Capture area must overlap the cooking surfaces (pan bases, griddle surfaces, grill surfaces, etc.) by enough given the hood entry aperture mounting height that effluent cones from those surfaces expanding at 10-degrees from vertical are intercepted. This is a more fundamental rule than rules based on overlaps defined by the cooktop or stove boundary dimensions. For island hoods, even more may be needed if there are cross currents (drafts) moving the rising and expanding plumes. Containment air velocity at the entry aperture performing the capture should be aimed at around 90 ft/min, which is equivalent to 90 CFM/sq. ft. of hood entry aperture. (Conversion to metric is left as an exercise for the student.) Note: While it is true that induction cooking lacks the combustion plume of gas cooking, and hence has a lower peak effluent velocity at modest cooking levels, all-out searing or wokking will bring the plume velocities close enough that skimping on the containment velocity using induction as an argument will likely degrade containment. The 10-degree number is just a point on the plume shape so gaining a tiny bit of effective capture area expansion due to inflowing air at the hood edges is helpful. Second note: Moving inserts up into a hood surround is a somewhat desperate act, and I would recommend a custom insert as a better approach. Please realize that in the larger hood sizes, the production rate is less than for the 30- and 36-inch sizes, hence fully automated cut and weld tooling is less likely to be used. Thus the amount of labor needed for a custom size should not be a lot more than for some fabricator's standard size, given similar standards of fit and finish. Blower scaling should account for the blower's fan curve and all the system pressure losses going from the stove top to outside and back to the stove top, so make-up air pressure loss has to be planned for and evaluated, along with baffle loss and duct loss. Lacking such an analysis, I suggest that a multiplying factor of 1.5 be applied to the calculated required flow rate to determine the blower's rated (zero pressure loss) flow rate to account for the fan curve and the various pressure loss 'sins' that are likely, but this assumes that the MUA is not too lossy. (In any case, lossy MUA drives house relative pressure negative, which is a safety hazard in many residential situations.) Noise control is another aspect treated in many threads here. MUA insertion into the kitchen to avoid drafts must be performed with care. kas