Mowie: Thank you, wish I could buy you a beer. I think I'm just going to order all those parts and replace them, except for the differential (the way that gizmo works is confusing to me) I really can't tell how worn they are without a new part. I'm somewhat obsessed with this project because I think It's a conspiracy to make these machines disposable. I just can't see throwing this thing away. I'm a marine biologist, let me know if you have a question about fish...least I can do. Just kidding. Rusty: Can't engage blades in reverse or I would.

"So far so good, but I believe I read the counter should overhang the sink edges? Probably to prevent having to see the caulk?" I don't like negative reveals. You may not see the caulk, but you won't see the crud growing under that ledge either. Plus now you have an additional exposed granite edge that can chip. Not possible with a slight positive reveal.

Agreed. Electricians are not magicians. If there isn't slack, it can be quite challenging (and there usually isn't slack). When you have built-ins, you usually get a pass on the 6 foot wall requirement. Not an exception, just that the built-ins don't count as a wall - at least in my jurisdiction. I just had to move one that was left in an open built-in. I got very lucky that it was an end of line outlet so I just was able to cut the wire to it and put an outlet closer in on the wire. You should be absolutely clear that you can't bury a live wire opening. Meaning you can't have a cover over it and then enclose the space. Just like you can't enclose an outlet. You can't have a junction in an enclosed space so you can't just "bring the outlet forward" without rerunning a wire to where it came from which can be very challenging. You may need to run 2 wires if it is daisy chained. Most outlets are daisy chained with about 5 per circuit - so only 20% are end of line. There can be significantly more than 5 so 20% is being optimistic. So the chances are you have to pull 2 new wires to more the outlet forward.

mostly your goals have to do with looks. I would reinforce a good lighting plan...but if you want to chew on some surface changes I would look at rattan for the drop pendants and fixture..I would get an area rug under the table I would paint the wall area around the windows I would get a new backsplash I would get runners//mats in the work area that coordinate w dinette area rug. dont forget hardware..that can really change the feel of the cabs. I like these wall colors..really saturated... [ but maybe go lighter] it would be interesting w the green in the next room over. any neutral whether creams/whites/taupes in other things you do will work w this color......find a color for that window wall... rugs are easy to get on line..any size..lots of choices.. taking a cue from your lighter woods and simple style of table/ chairs and bar stools....get into rattan .....It will be a more fun /lighter vibe against the existing cabs/ counters. I think youd like such a change . here is a change..... nickel or stainless hardware on dark cabs...more detail for your space...