Right, while you were helping (I'm not fully comfortable yet) I tried with a boot with the Ethernet disconnected. The notebook came up with the wireless detected and a strong signal seen, but would not work and when looking at the "view all wireless networks" a note advised: Windows can not configure this wireless connection....something about if some other program in control, or look at article 871122 in MS Know ledge base. Before doing that I went back to the Broadband Wireless Utility, this comes active on boot and is the software associated with the built-in wireless adapter in the notebook, it appears. So, this must the reason MS couldn't configure. Looking at the various dialog boxes associated with the Broadcom I re-entered the Network Key. I figured I knew it, and noted the number of "*" in the boxes were one character short of the key I remember. So I re-entered the key, and the WiFi started working, I'm using it right now. Thus, I've removed while typing my discomfort noted at the start of this post, it is the Broadcom software that is in control and I made an error when I first tired to activate, wrong key just as you, mikie, suggest. Thanks.

this is why I suggest always taping the passkey to the router and the wifi to the bottom of the router. You might try resetting the router to default and go through the configuration again, have you tried first unplugging the router from the power and let it set a few minutes then plugging it back in? that is always the first thing to try. I would shut down the pc, unplug the modem and router, wait a while, plug in modem let it get fully established, plug in router let it get fully established, then boot pc an see if it seems to hold better.

and since it mentions b/g/n it means it can use all of those technologies with n being the most current. So should you want or need a new wireless router any of those would work but you really want would be best with an N for latest technology and longest distance. I have my modem and router right on the desk beside my desktop so I actually prefer to simply use cables to connect. Just use the wireless for my portable devices.

Update on my original post. I did buy the thermostat from Lowes which is part of their home automation system called Iris. I originally liked it, although to get all the advantages I had to get their service at $10/month. I could track my temperature usage using my iPhone or my desktop computer. Then, about a year later, they discontinued the model of hub and sent me a new one (for free). I am very dissatisfied with the new service, it won't work with the desktop computer. But, most of all, their service is very poor. When I call, it may take an hour or more on hold before I get someone, and the most that person will give me is "I don't know". Before I switched hubs, I needed another WiFi thermostat for my new vacation home, so I got another Iris one, this time with the same, lame hub. Same problems and, in addition, the thermostat itself failed with no compensation from Lowes. The heating installer recommended a Honeywell 9000 series, which he got and installed. It works very well, so when I needed another Tstat for another zone, I got another and installed it myself (the box says "Pro", but I had no problem). Honeywell has a nice free service (mytotalconnectcomfort) which keeps track of my heating and if the tstat fails to connect, I get periodic messages telling me so (usually this is caused by either a router/cable-supplied internet failure or a power failure). I'm thinking about replacing my Iris tstat at my primary residence with the same model Honeywell, just to get the peace of mind of knowing that it's working. The 9000 series Honeywell cost $215, but they have many look-alikes at Home Depot and Lowes for about half that price, and I don't know what the difference is. I would like to have this new one on the same Honeywell as the ones I already have. Any input here?