To educate yourself, I suggest you Google something like "how to waterproof a steam shower." When I entered that, one of the FIRST things I read was not to use tar paper but to use a product like Kerdi, Laticrete, Noble, etc. and there are knock offs of these products as well. Even if he does what he says, from what I understand, there should still be a water proofing membrane under the tile. There are even YouTube videoes of the process, and, of course, plenty of information here in the archives - easier to access through Google than through the search feature here. There is a really good online forum for tiling but the system won't let me post it - initials JB

The Plumber is correct. The post clearly states the house is 80yrs old and no doubt the line in question is original to the house, therefore we can be assured that the DWV system pre-dates ABS or PVC piping. In those days lines 2" or greater were generally cast iron pipe, while 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" branch lines were galvanized iron pipe, copper pipe or possibly lead pipe. The did not have DWV grade fittings for galvanized iron pipe or copper pipe, therefore the bends were made with pressure type fittings, which have a sharp angle rather than the curved radius angles common to DWV fitting. Regardless of what kind of tool you use, when rodding those type of lines you can only go to the first 90deg bend, but the snake cannot make the sharp 90deg bend of the pressure fittings. The immediate solution would then be to open the wall at the offending joint, cut the pipe and snake the remaining portion of the line, then reconnect the pipes using PVC or ABS with a sanitary elbow and Fernco's, however you must keep in mind that the same problem can occur at the next angle fitting on that line. Given that you will have to open the wall anyway, the permanent solution would be to replace all the concealed pipe with ABS or PVC.

Yes I am sure about galvanized iron pipe, however it must be remembered that the International Residential Code and the Uniform Plumbing Code are National Model Codes. Each state, county or local jurisdiction uses these codes as a model to develope their own local code and while doing so they often insert additional requirements thus while the national model code may approve a material your local jurisdiction may elect to limit the list further. By Exampe, The California code is based primarily upon the UPC however while the UPC has adopted PEX as an approved material, PEX is not yet listed as approved under the California Plumbing Code. On the other hand, there are many local jurisdictions within the state of California that have approved PEX for use in their jurisdiction. Now in regards to copper tubing. The plumbing codes and gas codes specifically state the tubing MUST BE LISTED "SUITABLE FOR GAS." Copper tubing is manufactured in numerous grades. General Purpose copper tubing is approved for water, high & low pressure air and some chemical applications. Copper tubing listed as "Suitable for Gas" is primarily the same tubing but it undergoes a higher level of quality control during manufacturing. Copper ACR(Air conditioning & Refrigeration) tubing is then basically the same as gas tubing except it is purged of air and shipped with a slight charge of nitrogen gas to insure it remains moisture free during shipping and handling. (If you check the fine print in the material spec sheet you will see that it is also listed as "Suitable for Gas".) Copper tubing type OXY/MED undergoes the highest level of quality control, is purged of air, precharged with nitrogen and certified to be free of oil so that it may be used to convey Oxygen and Medical Gasses. (here again, read the fine print,,it is listed as Suitable for gas). Taking the discussion of copper tubing for gas service it must also be noted that copper may only be used to convey gas if the gas is certified by the supplier to contain equal to or less than 0.3grains of Hydrogen Sulfide per 100cu.ft of gas and it requires a written confirmation from the gas supplier prior to installation.

I'm in the midst of this now myself and to me what your GC is proposing sounds acceptable / reasonable. That's the way we're doing it: I've taken our (v. detailed) kitchen plan to the various tile places (still haven't decided which to use) and so far they're all coming up with the same amounts (which is what my husband and I estimated when we did the math). Early on in my professional relationship with our GC we did talk about tile choices: once he heard the tiles I was thinking of he said he wasn't going to add an allowance because of the (enormous) cost discrepancies. I appreciated that, that he'd supply the labor but wouldn't make any money off me for the tile itself. So I've not been through this process completely, but as of now, what you wrote sounds fine. With that being said, if you're having any misgivings LISTEN TO THEM. Trust your instinct and seriously think about working with a different GC. What was his response when you told him you expect him to provide all the info? How did you feel about it? It's better to take the time now interviewing away so that you have a good match with the person who will be organizing and, to some extent, overseeing your kitchen remodel. (I write "to some extent" because obviously you and your husband are the ultimate overseers.) Good luck, Tina.