Any chance of rearranging the kitchen so that the range is on the wall instead of the peninsula? I know you may want the island-cooking experience, but it seems in your situation, the costs and difficulty outweigh the benefit. Another benefit of having the range on the wall is that the hood in that location will be more effective and efficient. When you have an island hood, it is quite difficult to contain the smoke/grease from floating around and away from the hood, unless you have a very powerful hood. Especially with the type of cooking you said you do. With a range against the wall, the smoke/grease has almost no where to go except up, and you can get away with a bit less cfms from your hood. As to Danapoo's idea of a recirculating hood, I would not choose that, given what you said in your OP about the type of cooking you do, and also the Bluestar's very high btu's. A recirculating hood is only minimally effective, and a choice of last resort.

I guess it depends on how handy you are. I've been looking at the Bosch Nexxt 500 and the Duet Sport, both of which can be side-vented. For the Bosch, I will need to buy a side venting kit, and a side venting tool kit. But the appliance store is doing the modifications for me--which includes putting an elbow inside the machine. Hope that helps.

Decision has been made. My roofing contractor and I are an the same wavelength. I will have more eyebrow vents than you would believe. They will be as close as possible to the ridge like a few inches. The system will be completely passive. Nothing will wear out. It won't be necessary to crawl into an attic of extremely difficult geometry to install or perhaps service a fan. There will be no fan to vibrate or be heard. The venting at present is so minimal that hot air comes OUT the soffet vents. We don't need a 100% solution just a darn good one. There will be a VAST improvement. All my troubles will be over for ever and the world will be good again. ===================================== I inspected 2 ridge vents and 5 roofing contractors. I found: The ELK vent has only a 3/4 inch flow passage characteristic dimension. I don't believe that is large enough to establish significant flow for aerodynamic reasons. There are an unbelievable number of zig zag baffles to inhibit the air flow. The allowed opening in the ridge for this contrivance is only 2 inches. Not much is it? Thats a 2 inch inlet to a 3/4 inch high vent passage. Squirrels and birds put stuff in the vent openings especially bluejays. Bugs crawl into em. I looked at another brand which also had the same type drawbacks. Its baffles were foil shaped. Well La T Da. They blocked off 70% of the flow area. Its hot here. The ridge vents get soft and difficult to install; like nailing down spahgetti. They are made from polypropylene which in my experience just does not stand the heat and certainly not the sun. Insufficient ridge venting cannot be remedied with more vents as a short circuit will result. Insufficient Eyebrow venting can be remedied with more vents at the same roof level. Ridge vents might work. Eyebrow vents will work. =================================================================== MISLEADING ROOF VENT AREAS I measured 4 different eyebrow vents, 1 gable shaped vent and eyeballed a bunch on various roofs. I found: One eyebrow had a screened opening of 3 3/4 X 20 for an area of 75 sq in. But it had a vertical rain guard flap in front and the shortest distance from the edge of that to the lower surface of the xost pasage was 2.25 inch giving a true xost area of 2.25 X 20 = 45 sq in. The gable shaped vent had 6 louvers at 45º sort of Z shaped each with a rain lip and the top opening was semi-dome shape. The individual screens were about 1.25 inch high but the shortest distance from the rain lip to the lower surface of each louvre was 5/8 inch. The face opening was 8 x 20 overall implying 160 sq in vent. But the actual effective openings including the upper dome totaled 84 sq in. Great diligence must be exersized in any attempt to match upper roof vent xost areas to soffet inlet vent areas. The nominal dimensions of the various vents may imply xost flow areas at a wide variance from and greater than the actual flow areas. ==========================================

So in general a toilet doesn't really need a vent to operate properly. In fact, most people will argue that toilets actually flush better without a vent. If your goal is better operation of the toilet then the code is fine. The code is pretty relaxed, I think UPC is 6' and IPC is 12'. Generally, I prefer UPC over IPC, but in this case I really don't think it matters. Toilet vents are meant to keep your toilet from pulling the water out of other traps. So you want to make sure that you have a vent at / or prior to intersection with other fixtures. Either diagram you have should work, but may not even be necessary. I assume that there is either a dry or wet vent where you tie into the stack, that should really prevent siphoning, but really need to know how far to the stack, whether the stack has a dry vent or wet vent, and whether there are any fixtures between the stack and the toilet.