Shaddy, does this box say Interex on the front of it (brand name)? If so, I have a couple of them here. If that is what it is, plug in most of your components in the outlets closer to the power cord that comes out the back. On the front, you will see either switches(toggle) or push button (depending upon your model). Make sure the toggles are all in on position, or on push button model, make sure they are all pushed in (on position). Now, leave them there, and dont turn them off anymore at all. Everything will be shut down from the master control that is on the far right of the front of the unit. When you shut your computer down, do it the usual way. Once computer is all shut down, just push the button on the master to turn it all off, or toggle, if yours is the toggle model. When you go to turn on your computer again, turn that master button on, and boot your computer the usual way. Good Luck to you.

Accomplish? Only to alert people to the fact that this surge protector has the potential to catch fire. I rather imagine many people leave their computer on all of the time thinking the surge protector will guard their equipment. Perhaps this is naive but there it is, the last thing I ever expected was for the thing to suffer a melt down. The thing is that we have other electronics hooked up to surge protectors (other brands) and none of them caught fire. We have one that no longer works but that is my understanding of what is supposed to happen when they take a hit. They no longer work and need to be replaced. I hope to make people aware of the problem and that perhaps they should not buy this particular brand since the problem seems to be ongoing and with other models. In addition, based on my experience the company doesn't seem to be overly concerned that there could be a safety issue. . I wish I had been better informed before I purchased this item and thought I might be able to help someone else by reporting this. I don't really need any help since I think I have done about as much as I can do at this point by contacting the Product Safety Commission, Consumer Affairs, etc. And by being allowed to post the information on this forum. Thanks for your reply.

I was raised on a farm that did not get electricity until 1947, therefore, we and our neighbors had to use alternate heat. We used coal or wood burners installed in the main living space. A wood burning cook stove was in the kitchen. On very cold days, both stoves were fired and on milder days, only the main stove was used. That kept one room very warm and the adjoining rooms above freezing. Someone above asked what about overnight. We did what was called "banking the fire". An hour before retiring, the stove would be loaded with fuel and the fuel allowed to become fully ignited and then the flue pipe damper was set to slow the draft up the chimney and the air inlets on the stove would be reduced to low air inlets. A properly "banked" stove will burn almost all night and by morning there will still be a healthy bed of coals. By morning, the house will have cooled; Its the job of the first person up to revive the fire. That's how it was done. Old houses with "modern" heating plants were in luck. Those old furnaces did not have forced air but depended on gravity and difference in density of heated air to curculate heated air throughout the house. No electricity was required, although some had automatice fire-box feeders that did need elecric power, however, most of these did have a manual feed feature. Those old furnaces were 'lovingly' referred to as "octopuses" describing the huge amount of ductwork in the basement. Gravity driven air ducts require large ducts possibly with 3 times the cross-section of forced-air installations, but those work without power. Were these efficent? Nah - a lot heat went up the chimney. Many of those old house designs did not have any water piping to the second floor. Water was restricted to a pitcher pump at the kitchen sink - no electricity needed. This pump could not raise water much more than 20 to 25 ft (by suction); It drew water from a rain filled cystern. On very cold nights, the pump was 'un-primed" allowing the water to drain back before going to bed. The only water was in the sink trap if you had one. The next morning, after the stoves were re-fired with room temperature rising, the pump could be primed to provide a fresh supply of water. In the winter, one should not leave the house for an extended time without first draining the pump and connecting pipe. How soon we forget about the life of yesteryear. It takes only one generation to move on to the modern house with plumbing on all floors, a house that is dependent on reliable electrric power, and to forget how to survive without power for a few days. Today's house design makes that very difficult.

@Emily - the "back" button only works to get to the main page if that's the last place you've been. If, for example, I'm following a particular thread & get email notification, and follow the email link to the thread, then "back" won't work. And, often, I'll follow the email & decide that while I'm here, I might as well see what else is being discussed on forum.