I found that I have a small leak coming from the overflow bag during spin / drain. Model is 110-22062102. After a bunch of online research, I concluded that this was caused by a faulty pump. I replaced the pump with the new style motor/pump combo and replaced all the spring style clamps with SS worm gear clamps up on the top end. Got it all back together and still had the exact same issue. Also verified there were no bra wires in the water tank messing with the ball float. Only thing I could see was a penny in the bottom, but it didn't seem to hinder the ball. Not sure what to do next. Original Calypso was replaced under warranty in approx. 2004. This 2nd unit hasn't had any problems until now. Wife doesn't care much for it, so I don't want to invest too much $$ in this one. Any help out there?

hi OB2B, so nice to meet you today? did you enjoy the tour? I had a chance to see a few of the houses this afternoon. It was a great day. steph2000, thanks so much! i think you are right re: the semi-flush. right now I am going to take a breather until the hood is ready. I pushed really hard to get this done for the tour today -- there were so many people here this week. will be nice to take a little break. deedles, I purchased the wolf 20" riser with shelf for behind the range. it isn't up yet. the guys were having trouble sliding the range out. the riser has to attach to the back of the range (i would have assumed it could just attach to the wall) and so the range has to slide out. The marble countertops are very tight to the range with really no gap at all so it was difficult for them and they were rushing so much to get so many things done that I suggested we address it later when they can slow down a little (I was a little afraid of them damaging the doors on my range ... they were pullling on them trying to slide it out and that was definitely not okay with me!).

Holly - your response makes sense and is basically what we have here (although it is not FLUSH with the back - the back panel hangs over, which you can barely see in the picture above. But if this is true and how these are supposed to be, then why do the installation instructions say to drill pilot holes 1" from the side panels on each side. That wouldn't make it into the base at all. My husband installed it, the way gaucho advised above. It seems fine, although there is no oven in it yet. During install, we found cracks on both sides of the front (that go through from inside to outside) panels. (Attached a picture of the worst one.) I've sent pictures to the cabinet company we bought it from to see what is next. I think it should be replaced. Which mean DH has to take this one out and install again. Or they'll do nothing and we'll have cracked cabinet fronts to live with. Very annoying.

sageviews... short answer is I have no idea. Longer answer: I'm not familiar with Kitchenaid built-in models, so I can't say for sure, but... It's not so much the depth with a built-in, or the space you allow beside it, as it is the hinges on the refrigerator door. While you could leave a 1/2" clearance all the way around (and please don't let anyone tell you that looks bad, many current refrigerators require that space, and lots of people have them and it sure doesn't bother them) - your doors may still jut out a bit. Depending where you live and your personal tastes, this might be perfectly fine, or it might not suit you. Sub Zero realized a while back that integrated (flush with cabinetry) was becoming popular, so their built-ins, which are not true integrated, had hinges that operated in such a way that the door does not need to extend beyond the cabinetry beside it to open completely. Thus, if someone had the depth and space, they could install the SZ built-ins very similar to an integrated... flush with the cabinetry. I don't think Kitchenaid did this with their built-in hinges. You'd really have to go look at them, and inquire. The easiest way to tell is to take a piece of flat wood (a 1 x 8 or a small piece of plywood - or even a stiff notepad), hold it just beside the door - flush, and open the door the way. Does it hit the wood? If yes, you can't flush install. Is that horrible? If one really wants panels but can't find integrated or it's beyond the remodel budget, no, I don't think so. Just my opinion. It's kind of hard for me to explain the difference in hinges, but the SZ's allow the door to open in place, it does not need side-room. I can't tell by looking at Kitchenaide's site, but I'm pretty sure they require a non-flush install. Basically, the difference is this: SZ built in flush inset: kitchenaide built in flush inset: Hope whatever you decide, you are happy with it : )