Cabinet Installation Question - can anyone help quick?

9 years ago

We're installing a wall oven cabinet for a 30" wall oven. The cabinet is 33" (Aristokraft OC33) (don't love the cabinet line, but that's what we already have in the kitchen). So the cabinet itself is 33 wide by 24 deep. The base (with the toe kick) is 29 wide by 20 deep. The instructions say this:

"Stand 90" tall cabinet upright near desired installation location. Position the toe kick assembly with toe kick board in front. Slide toe kick assembly underneath tall cabinet. Align right, left and back sides of toe kick assembly flush with cabinet."

This is where the first problem comes in. How do you align the right, left and back sides flush with the cabinet when it is not the same dimension (33 wide) as the cabinet? Also, if we align the back flush (set the back on top of the back piece of toe kick assembly), it would make the cabinet tilt forward because the back of the cabinet has a 1/2-1" lip.

Next in the instructions:

"Using the dimensions shown, mark the bottom of the tall cabinet for pre drilling. Measure 1" from the inside of end panel and 6" from inside of face frame in the front. In the back of cabinet, measure 1" from inside of end panel and 3" from back panel. Mark the holes on both the left and right sides of tall cabinet bottom. Make sure the toe kick assembly is flush with the cabinet.> With a 3/32" drill bit, drill starter holes using the four marks that were made on the bottom. Using four of the #10 x 2 1/2" screws, fasten the tall cabinet to toe kick assembly."

So the marks and pilot holes are to be 1" from the sides of the cabinet. If we marked there and drilled through, it would be into nothing because the base is 2" from the cabinet edge.

Does this make sense? Can anyone understand the problem we're having? Did the cabinet company send us the wrong size base? We think they did (but hope they didn't and we're just missing something because who know how long it will take to get a replacement and this 90" tall cabinet is sitting in the middle of my kitchen aisle!).

If you can help, please chime in asap. Thanks!

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Comments (12)

GauchoGordo1993
9 years ago
1 picture > 1000 words
jakuvall
9 years ago
If what you have in hand can't work build your own subbase with 2x material (or 3/4ply with a top). Finish exposed faces with matching base board or toe cover. If toe cover set it to recess slightly.
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Debbi Branka
Original Author
9 years ago
Thank you for responding. I don't know what to send pictures of. Here's one showing the base under that cabinet. From the back corner. Trying to shoe how much the cab overhangs the base.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
9 years ago
I'm with jakuvall on this one.
GauchoGordo1993
9 years ago
Seems like the base is sized for a corner placement with 4" kick on tw sides, which presumably would be structurally sound. Assuming that's right, then the right/left placement doesnt matter. Regarding screws, they just hold the base in 0lace, they arent structural, so just get them through the floor of the cab and the base somehow and you'll be fine.
snoonyb
9 years ago
The toe-kick should actually be 33" long, the width of the cabinet.

Measure the distance from the wall to the outside of the toe-kick of your existing cabinets, set the finished front of the toe-kick assembly at that dimension and square with the cabinet.

For questions and complaints you can contact MASTERBRAND by mail;MasterBrand Cabinets, Inc.
One MasterBrand Cabinets Dr.
P.O. Box 420
Jasper, IN 47547

Who are the mfg. of ARISTOKRAFT.
Debbi Branka
Original Author
9 years ago
Thanks everyone. DH Is planning on doing as Gaucho mentioned. The cabinet is going into what was a pantry, so there are walls on both sides (and back). I appreciate your quick advice and feel better that someone else thought of what DH thought. Nice reinforcement.
User
9 years ago
The toekick on a AOK pantry is recessed on 3 sides. It is flush with the rear only. The applied decorative toekick bridges the gap when it's in line with the rest of the bases, and is recessed when it is at the end of a run.
sombreuil_mongrel
9 years ago
If at all possible, use a toekick as wide as the cabinet above. Otherwise the stress will warp the bottom board of the cabinet box. If time is of the essence, make a 33" wide base from lumber. Maintain the same overall depth as the unit they sent. I can't tell if the 1/2" lip at the back is a problem, but you may need to notch your new toe kick assembly to keep it even with the adjoining kick spaces.
Casey
Debbi Branka
Original Author
9 years ago
Holly - your response makes sense and is basically what we have here (although it is not FLUSH with the back - the back panel hangs over, which you can barely see in the picture above. But if this is true and how these are supposed to be, then why do the installation instructions say to drill pilot holes 1" from the side panels on each side. That wouldn't make it into the base at all.

My husband installed it, the way gaucho advised above. It seems fine, although there is no oven in it yet. During install, we found cracks on both sides of the front (that go through from inside to outside) panels. (Attached a picture of the worst one.) I've sent pictures to the cabinet company we bought it from to see what is next. I think it should be replaced. Which mean DH has to take this one out and install again. Or they'll do nothing and we'll have cracked cabinet fronts to live with. Very annoying.
snoonyb
9 years ago
If they do nothing, it will accompany an explanation, well, how do we know how the cabinet was handled since it was not unpacked in our presence.

And the lesson is;"it was not unpacked in our presence."
Debbi Branka
Original Author
9 years ago
The rep I ordered from was very apologetic about the condition of the cabinet and offered to order a new one, express delivery, or see if they company would discount for this one. He's ordering the new one today.

Cabinet Installation Question - can anyone help quick?

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Cabinet Installation Question - can anyone help quick?

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