Adding a bed/bath doesn't always add value. If you aren't changing the size of the house by having an addition for the third bedroom and second bath, then you probably won't see any additional value added. In fact, as mentioned above, you could very well have a reduced value based on the newly non-functional 3/2. Any buyer and/or appraiser would have to take into account the cost to restore it to a functional layout. Walking through a bedroom to get to a bedroom doesn't add value. Having a very small bedroom (7x10) would be a detriment in my market and possibly in your market. I agree that the best way to add a bedroom/bath to this home is through a well thought-out addition. It would need to look natural as if it was an original part of the house rather than an after-thought. Consider working with an architect. It's possible that an (actual) architect could come up with a functional floorplan within the current footprint.

I do not like shutters with wide window groups, because they are obviously fake. I would remove them and paint the trim around the windows as well as on the corners of the house and the fascia at the edge of the roof. Below is a home with three exterior colors that accent the lines of the house. The contrast between light, medium and dark tones adds drama. The rest of your curb appeal can come from landscaping. Start by adding a concrete path from the front entry to the driveway. If you can't do a solid concrete walk buy the largest paving stones (usually 18"x18") and set them between the entry and the driveway. This will allow you to make a 36" wide path that is easy to walk on, and looks good. Here is one simple style. It looks like there is already a planting bed between the entry and the driveway. Fill it with plants that stay green through winter, but be careful to choose shrubs that stay small. Dwarf only means smaller than the species, so check the expected mature height before you buy. Be sure to place all plants far enough away from the house and walkways that they don't crowd. If a plant is expected to grow 4' wide, plant it 2' from the house or path. Fill in around them with perennials or annuals to cover bare ground and provide seasonal color. The bed on the side of the garage is narrow and therefore best suited to small upright plants such as phlox, veronica or daylily. If you want a shade tree make sure to avoid underground utilities when you dig. Don't plant a tree or any large shrub between the front door and the street. Don't create a mulch volcano around new trees. If your soil is heavy, deep mulch can lead to fungal disease at the base of the trunk. This applies to shrubs as well. Mulch is supposed to be temporary just to cover bare ground. You can let the lawn grow up to the tree.

Hi - It is not clear to me if I need to ADD additional underlayment when installing my Karastan LVT: Platinum Refined Forest LVT | Karastan I have a dry, clean (swept and vacuumed), concrete floor. The tile says "Underlayment: Pad attached" - does that mean I DO NOT NEED TO ADD A LAYER OF UNDERLAYMENT? I see discussions about vapor barriers and eco-soft noise reduction underlayment but IS IT NEEDED when a PAD IS ATTACHED? Please don't tell me to read the instructions: there are none! Best I could find is this unclear detail on similar but not identical product: LuxeCraft_Herringbone_Installation_Instructions.pdf (windows.net) Thank you! :-)

FYI...if you want room for legs/knees to fit comfortably, the minimum recommendation is 15" of clear leg/knee space for counter-height seating -- and that's for short to average folks. We have 15" and I wish we had more, but we're a relatively tall family, so more would have been better. I'm the shortest and even my knees tough the backs of the cabinets on our peninsula when I sit close enough to eat something. (If not eating, I can push myself farther out into the aisle for more comfort -- but not if I'm eating anything b/c I would drip food on me for certain!) 12" is only good for "perching" for short amounts of time. It would not be comfortable for any length of time -- for all heights (except very short people or very young children). Regardless, you don't have room for 15" or 12". You should have 48" to 54" behind seats (48" if no counters/cabinets, 54" if counters/cabinets). Your work aisles are already too shallow (42" is minimum recommended for a one-person Kitchen and 48" or more for 2 or more people working in the Kitchen). Note that aisles are measured to/from the items sticking out into them the farthest -- appliance handles, counter overhangs, etc. The back panel of your island is probably only 1". That's pretty standard (3/4" panel + install space). That's assuming you don't just have cabinets with a finished back and no decorative doors/end panels. If that's what you have, then you don't have a panel to remove. I agree with others -- you did NOT make a mistake by not having seating at the island.