I love the niches! Though your mom's looks built-out, not recessed between the studs. I could do that, even with the pocket door, but it would have to be very shallow as there is only 11" from the wall to the tub at the closest point. I also love the windows all the way to the deck - wish mine were lower (maybe not all the way down, but so that I could see out when sitting) but I lost the battle on that window and the one over the kitchen sink - I kept putting in bigger windows and they kept changing the plans, every time a study plan came back it had the smaller windows in again so I figured there was a structural reason and gave up. I could take out the linen closet - I've never liked linen closets in bathrooms, always take out lowest shelf to slide a hamper in and use the rest to stock up on shampoos and soaps - towels go in hallway linen closet where they won't get musty. I just need to keep a column at the front corner of the linen closet near the tub, there is a vent pipe running there - though maybe it could be relocated to the opposite wall of the closet, that is shared with the toilet/shower compartment, that's a thick wall anyway b/c of another pocket door (that slides in the opposite side - b/t the shower and the vanity which I'm not crazy about but I don't think I'm into trying to gut the unfinished bathroom around the brand-new tub and shower. Anyway, code says the controls have to be accessible from outside the tub, so faucets definitely have to go in front corner if I don't tear out the linen closet and box out around that vent pipe. I could forgo the handshower completely but it is convenient for rinsing hair and for rinsing the tub after cleaning (which I have to get into to tub to wipe so I usually clean just before or after using the tub). I could just return this small handshower and get a slightly larger one (with multiple settings!) that could mount on the deck and then I don't have to put it right in the middle, on the acrylic rim. I don't really like a big spout right near my face, would have to try it out and make sure it was far enough away not to be claustrophobic (or a hazard!) if I put it at the head of the tub instead of by the drain. The hot and cold water lines are the ones that would require 6ft hoses from the shutoff valves to the faucet handles/valves, the handshower is fine since it won't be that far from the spout (even when I had planned on it being opposite end, I just figured I'd put a 10-ft braided washing machine hose on). Maybe I will put a grab bar under the window - have to see if it really helps getting up/out. But if I were to put on on the deck for assistance getting in (I've only got a 30" inseam and the deck will be about 20" from finished floor), where would you suggest I put it? Thanks

The photos are great. Thanks much. I've been surfing and have found quite a few sites with grab bars that also look good. Here are a few sites: http://www.greatgrabz.com/grab-bars http://www.pontegiuliousa.com/bagnosicuro/grab-bar-collections.html https://www.plumbingsupply.com/luxury-grab-bars.html And here is the cornershelf/grab bar I am contemplating. Moen makes a much cheaper version, but it has a plastic insert, and I want something that will be more permanent. http://www.wrightstuff.biz/cornershelf.html Here is one take on which type to install: "Never anchor a grab bar into drywall , it will not hold and you could be seriously injured. How to properly install a grab bar is to screw it into the wall studs or to blocking in your walls. If your walls don't have blocking, add it by nailing a piece of plywood into the studs. The plywood should be þ inches thick and 6 to 12 inches wide. A grab bar should have 1-ý" of clearance from the wall. Wall mounted grab bars come in several lengths. Deciding which length to install depends on how the grab bar will be used. For example, if you're putting a main grab bar on the side wall of a bathroom tub enclosure a grab bar at least 24 inches long is best. If you're adding a second grab bar for support on the shower head wall, it should be at least 12 inches long. Horizontal grab bars offer better leverage when you are trying to get out of a bathtub or up and down from a toilet, but a grab bar placed at a 45 degree angle to the toilet or bathtub's rim is better when trying to accommodate people of different heights. Angling your grab bar has an additional advantage. A 24 inch bar installed at a 45 degree angle will exactly span wall studs spaced 16 inches apart, and you can screw into the studs on each end for maximum support. Horizontal grab bars should be located 33 to 36 inches above the finished floor around toilets, and 33 to 36 inches above the floor of the bathtub (7 to 11 inches above the rim) and close enough to the shower head wall to support you when adjusting water temperature."

If you'll cut on it, butcher block. Or laminate. ;) I occasionally cut a slice of apple or two on my old stuff, but I hated it and wanted to rip it out. Seriously, don't cut on the counters. Keep a large cutting board stationed near where you prep. As Dianalo mentioned, it's bad on your knives. It dulls them, which leads to more cuts on fingers because a dull knife is a dangerous knife. Given your list, I recommend wood. Thought about that at all? Not shiny, usually not modern, can be rustic, casual, cozy, and not speckled. I have a black walnut island top. I LOVE it. I do not cut directly on it.

It depends. The "rules" ie above post do not work if those using it are not 'average' height. If the person who really needs it is 5', it would go lower than if they were 6'6". 33'36 inches would put it practically at the level of my armpit as I'm 5'2 but with over half my height in leg length.