Usually when you convert from LP to NG you loose BTUs because NG isn't as "potent" as LP. We were on propane for 6 months with all new equipment before i could bring in NG. I have a 20kw Generator with LP, if i switch to NG (which I did) its only 18kw. bit its advertised like that. I would give GE a call. their field conversion kit must not be the exact same NG equipment as the range from the factory. manybe the manifold is different and a field manifold swap is too hard to do in the field. The regulator is any are usually the same for both gases (just needs to be adjusted) other then the reg. a conversion is usually just a orifice swap.

I'm not deeageaux, but numbers of us here have purchased NXRs. There are several long and detailed threads discussing the pros & cons of the brand. Well worth reading if you are interested. Basically, the NXRs are the least expensive pro-style range you can buy in the US. Deeageuax was initially a pretty harsh critic of the early NXR's because of suspicion that it might be cheap Chinese crapola. For the most part, I think he agress \that NXRs have been pretty fine stoves for the money. And "for the money" is the critical phrase here. I think Deeageuax will agree that the NXRs are aimed at a different market segment than the Blue Stars. Think of the Blue Star as a Dodge diesel pick-up while the NXRs are more akin to a Subaru Forester or maybe a Hyundai sedan. Maybe a little less extreme than those differences, but you get the idea. Actually, I think the NXR does compete with some pro-style ranges but the competiton is with the sealed burner premium brands like Viking and Dacor and Maybe DCS rather than open-burner ranges like Blue-Star and AR. Again, I invite you to read the long threads (some going back to 2009) which are pretty informative. I've been happy with my NXR for the year and half since I got mine from Costco, but it does have some limitations that may or may not matter to you. Basic differences between the NXR and Blue Star --- other than price --- different tops (cast-iron on the Blue Star but plain stainless steel on the NXR), differnt burners (BS with potentially higher-powered open-star pattern burners, NXR with "dual stacked" sealed burners) and oven size (Blue Star has one of the larger oven capacities available in a 30" range -- can fit a full size 16x26 sheet pan) while the NXR is more akin to the ovens in Electrolux ranges. Also, Blue Star has something of a fanboy cult following which the NXR lacks. (But, come to think of it, I don't think I've run across fanboy cults for Hyundai's either. That may be an advantage to being a bit down-market.) Actually, for me, with a $2k stove budget, the competitors for the NXR were induction ranges and GE Profile gas ranges. Except for not having a self-cleaning oven, I like my NXR more than its predecessor, a GE Profile dual fuel. While most reviews of the NXR have been very postive --- kind of a Subaru/sensible shoes crowd --- there have been some complaints. Most of the complaints about the NXR seem --- so far --- to be the result of shipping damage and uneven warranty service. Experiences have ranged from just fine to abysmal. Read bmorpanic's woeful saga of trying to get the company to fix or replace an obvious case of shipping damage -- a tale bad enough that recently got her stove bought back and is getting a Dacor. There are plenty of us who haven't had such problems, but caution tells me that I would buy a small brand stove only from a vendor like Coscto who has an absolute satisfaction, full money-back guarantee. I do not mean to suggest that Blue Star has been immune from these kinds of warranty problems. Do a search and you'll find that there are some postings here from very unhappy owners,

Welcome to posting. Things I have learned while reading GW: Duct size (8" is better than 6") and length will affect the performance of a hood--90° turns and long runs will decrease efficiency, so if that's the case, it's better to start with a more powerful hood. A larger capture area is better--6" wider than the range/cooktop. Make-up air is needed for a blower that draws more than 400cfms--check your local building code. Sones matter, too. (Noise level) The following thread from the Appliances forum has some good info posted by kaseki (scroll down): 63" hood over a 48" range You can also ask in the Appliances forum. Good luck!

I've been there, done that with new ovens from several different brands over the years. They all smell, it's due to residual oil from the factory burning off. From my experience, I actually would NOT recommend running the self clean cycle to burn off the initial smell, especially with no ventilation. Yes, it will burn off quicker this way, but there will be a good deal of smoke and a really nasty burning/chemical smell that will make the kitchen and the rooms surrounding it unusable. I'd rather just use the oven normally and let the milder version of the smell burn off on its own, even if it takes a little longer.