Is 3ft X 6ft shower too long and narrow?
auzzy
13 years ago
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rlthomas7
13 years agoRelated Discussions
How to prune and train peaches 2x6ft spacing?
Comments (28)I know it's an old thread, but I came across it and felt I could add something for other people wondering the same thing. Wow, so ok, this thread is... very interesting? Went from somewhat helpful to nursery bashing lol. There are four ways to control vigor/ size in a tree: Precocity, spacing, dwarfing rootstocks, and pruning out large branches. You can plant them 2ft apart in the row and 8ft alleys as a spindle if you want, or 20 ft apart as an open vase if you want (hint: the spindle is going to yield more than the vase per acre). The biggest thing to maximizing yields is maximizing bearing surface and light interception per acre. I use dual-leader UFO (upright fruiting offshoot) training for everything now. UFO was originally developed for spur-fruiting species (apples, plums, pears, cherries), but it can be modified to work with tip and year-old-growth bearing species (some apples, peaches, apricots). You just have to space out your uprights more and allow for limited lateral branching. For peaches, I plant trees 8 feet apart in row, with 7ft alleys (I use a TYM 234 tractor). I plant the trees at roughly a 45 degree angle. I allow the uprights on the primary leader to grow (keep terminal bud upright), and select one below the bottom cordon to train as the second leader. I then remove the other buds below the bottom wire. By the end of 1st leaf, you should have both leaders tied to the wire, and mostly filled the space between trees, you've pruned off the pendant shoots, and you should have some fruiting wood for next year. In the winter, tip back the fruit sticks and eliminate damaged/crowded wood. second leaf- limited fruiting possible, focus on establishing your uprights roughly every 10 inches (6 inches for spur bearing species) and finish filling in the space. Eliminate pendant wood, shoots sticking outside of the vertical plane, and any uprights beyond your "permanent" ones in late summer, after any harvest (limited regrowth that way). Next year's fruiting wood is now on the upright shoots. Tip back the fruit sticks and eliminate damaged/crowded fruiting wood. Third Leaf- should definitely get fruit, goal is to get your upright shoots to the top wire (which for a should be roughly 75% of your alley width, IMO). Same kind of pruning as previous years. At some point, your laterals are going to start to grow together, at that point, you need to do renewal pruning in the winter back to a bud near the upright. Once your uprights get to about 1.25x your alley width, head the uprights back to on bud above the top wire (otherwise you'll shade the bottom of the next row). As uprights approach 3/4 to 1 inch diameter at the base, take the largest one every year down to one bud above the leader (unlike apples and cherries, peaches don't regenerate as readily, so you need to give it the best chance). All renewal type pruning should be done before budbreak, to encourage vigorous regrowth....See MoreIs 32" too narrow for a shower?
Comments (19)If you look closely at the pictures, you'll see chrome channel on the top of the pony wall and up the right side of the shower, which is what attaches the glass piece above the pony wall. The door is frameless, but I was told that the best structural support for the glass on the pony wall was to use channels, and I didn't want clips on the top part of the pony wall because of the water. Because I used chrome, I find that the channels are barely noticeable; that wouldn't be the case with other finishes. I would also think about how you want the door to open. For a long time, I thought I wanted the hinges for the door to attach to the glass above the pony wall, but my glass company convinced me that there were two problems with that. First, it would put too much strain on the glass above the pony wall and wasn't structurally the best idea (I would have to either add clips for the glass above the pony wall going into the ceiling or have a channel running across the entire top of the glass). Second, they convinced me that I'd want it hinged on the left so that I could open the door inward while getting out of the shower in order to prevent water from dripping on the floor and to be able to reach a towel on the towel hook. That wouldn't work if the hinges were on the right because the door would smack into the shower head/valve trim....See More5 ft Slider or 3 ft Patio Door
Comments (4)Bear in mind that you will have a wider clear opening with the 3-0 door, but two feet less of day light opening. You might also want to consider a 5-0 patio style swinging door, (It is hinged in the center and one panel is fixed and the other swings open and folds against it). They are also called atrium doors (little a) and Verandah doors. It will give you just a few inches more clear opening width than a slider, but offers two panels of glass. These come as inswings only, and generally have a sliding screen that slides from the stationary panel to the operating panel to close....See More5 ft slider or 3 ft patio door?
Comments (11)We bought it from Homedepot.com It seems to be a nice solid door for the money. It came Pre-painted and is available in other colors and ready to go. Very happy with the door. We had the trim carpenter that did all our trim and cabinetry install it and they did a fantastic job. It fit right in to the previous slider opening without any tear out or rebuilding of the frame area. Of course my DH watched the trim carpenters ease of installing it and said "I could have done that" : ) Pretty sure ours was righthand in-swing but I get confused on that. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202887216/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=Masonite+72+in.+x+80+in.+Pure+White+Prehung+Left-Hand&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202956615#.UC6rcKPHmKM...See MoreUser
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13 years agoAvanti Tile & Stone / Stonetech
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13 years agoStacey Collins
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