Update: Before the install, I did wind up modifying the track in the air handler for the 1-inch air filter. I used 2 pieces of steel banding, 2 inches wide, cut to length, and placed them over the manufacturer's track using a few dabs of automobile body putty (Bondo) to keep it secure. It is now a smooth track for the filter to slide on. Goodman used the track as part of the frame of the air handler so it had some crimpings in it and the filter would not easily slide in. I also trimmed away some foil faced insulation that prevented the filter from seating properly. A 20"x24" filter now fits perfectly. I am glad that I did these minor mods as I would have been fighting this monthly when I change filters. The unit was installed Friday, 6/22, after I had it for about 5 weeks waiting on the installers. It took two guys 8 hours. I fed them both breakfast and lunch (I treat my installers well). The old supply air plenum and the plenum after the air handler had to be replaced to match the new unit. The old 5/16" liquid line had to be replaced with a new 3/8" line. 3 holes were cut into the finished ceiling and 1 in the wall so that the new line could be run. I'll repair the holes when I get a chance - no big deal. The TXV sticks out about 8 inches from the air handler. Looks funky and I have to be careful not to hit it while moving things around in that area. The old outside unit had sunk about 4 inches into the ground. I filled the hole with soil that I was saving, packed it down, put a plastic condensor mounting pad on the dirt, and used 3" thick brick to elevate the outside unit (which is huge in size compared to the old 7 SEER unit; 14 SEER = more coils = larger unit). The outside unit is much more quiet as expected but the new mult-speed air handler is also a little more quiet than the old one. The fan is set on low speed and I'm not sure of the setting of the old unit as the lables on the motor had worn away after 21 years. The sheet metal in the new air handler is flimsy and the track for the air filter can be improved by Mr Goodman. The outside unit looks decent. These comments were also noted by the installers. I plan on taking the outside and inside coils to a local scrap facility and sell the copper. Maybe I can get a few $$ for a couple cases cases of my favorite beer. I can now start saving 40% on the cooling and heating part of my energy bill and use this to combat the 65% increase in electric rates in the State of Maryland. All in all, I thought that I got a good value for the money spent (only time will tell if I made the right choice with Goodman). I got a 14 SEER system with Copeland scroll compressor, thermo-expansion valve on the air handler, hard start capacitor, 15 kw heat strip kit, bypass humidifier, and 10 year parts warranty for $2477 from a local HVAC supply shop. I paid $1200 for a pro install (needed the pro install for the warranty). Total cost was $2k less than...

Enduring- thanks for responding. I had seen your shower- it turned out just beautiful. I wasn't sure if in your research you'd explored a sliding glass door or not. To answer your questions. One end of the shower is on an exterior brick wall. The other is flanked by a custom linen closet surrounded by tile with the edges grouted. It's not coming out. If I had no other choice but to do doors, I'm pretty sure I'd have to remove tile on one or both ends and add the blocking- not something I'd like to do if I can avoid it. Likely I'd just have one door and a fixed panel on the other- I'm pretty sure the toilet clearance wouldn't let me do two doors like you have. Though I see your point about having a fixed panel- I can't drill into the shower pan so that wouldn't work either. Hopefully some of the glass guys can give me their opinion about using epoxy to secure clips on the bottom. Thanks again for your help- much appreciated. Lisa

Surface protectant is not included in the price. After researching on this forum and elsewhere, I opted for Showerguard in my master bath. It is actually impregnated into the glass and is not a surface substance. So far it is working great as I have no splotches or streaks - I just hose it down when I finish showering to get off any blobs of soap or shampoo. I do use liquid body soap which is supposed to be better at avoiding crap buildup but I have hard water. I knew I was not going to squeegee every time the shower was used so I took precautions. I did not use any kind of protection on the shower in the guest bath as that shower is never used. Prior to the remodel, it had frosted glass and I used it as an additional storage closet for Costco size packages of toilet paper and paper towels along with anything else I could reasonably fit in there :-). It now has clear frameless glass enclosure and beautiful tile work so it is no longer operating as a storage facility :-).

The monkey was for humor, the get a different house was very serious. You don't need to own a monkey -- a rental ferret will do the cleaning for half the cost! Seriously, I'm with you though: glass showers in pictures look fantastic. Crystal-clear clean and IF toiletry products are visible, they're decanted into lovely matching bottles. The real-life glass shower in my own house looks, um ... somewhat different. Since I try to be practical and realistic, I'd stick with the standard glass door only. One last thought: Does this large cost include spot resistant coating?