More of "How I did it". We were in Restore last week, and I came across three rolls of this for only $2 each. It was the perfect size, and very easy to trim to fit the uneven spaces with a razor knife. I held them in place with screws to the logs and daubing. I decided to try tile mortar. Why? Mainly because I had an almost full bag, and figured if it didn't work I could just try something else. But I liked the idea that it is fortified to avoid cracks and help bond to wood. I did mix it a little thicker than usually when doing tiling. I put the first coat up pretty thin, just to secure and harden up the plastic screening. After that was hard, I came back and put on a thicker coat. It was a little hard to get smooth so I used a old paint brush and dragged across it. It work well. The tile mortar probably isn't the best product for this application because it does tend to droop if you pile it on too thick. But if you are patient and and do a couple coats it will work. We thought the white was a little "too white" so for the final coat I mixed in some beige paint and coated it on with the paint brush. The hardest part was coming back with a wet rag to clean it off the logs. Lots of little grooves especially in the bark. I am pretty happy with the final result. I still have a few trim pieces to put on on the side and bottom. It was well work the effort.

The cabinets are stained, but if you want to acheive the same look with paint, our trim paint (the window and door frame in the pics) is done in a custom mix (me with a big bucket LOL). It's a sherwin williams color called "Woodsy Brown" mixed 50/50 with Black paint of the same sheen. Decorators call the color Tint de'negre (tint of brown/black). It's a very rich chocolate color (think semi sweet hershey bar). It flows really well with true chocolate browns and tans, and I like how my white fixtures work with it as well.

All of the "sandwich stations" I have worked with have been commercial, I never seen a residential one. That being said, when building a new home you design what you want. If it were me I would go with a True Remote Condenser unit (remote allows you to run a line set to the compressor assembly which is plate mounted, this can be located outside near your a/c units), the remote will keep the unit silent and insure you don't have heat build up problems associated with sealing one of these units up, which is what I would do. I would take a True 60" or 72" or what ever size you are thinking, and I would have my cabinet maker make me door covers, and then remove the wheels these units normally come equipped with and have the finish carpenter close in the bottom and mount the unit as a cabinet would be. The True units seem to have the lowest tops, other units like beverage airs I have seen have a larger dome top that can make it unsightly in a home atmosphere. I like the idea, and I am confident for under $5K you can have it custom covered and installed depending on the cost of your woods and stone... good luck, I would love to see pictures, BTW, you would get the lower refer part of the unit, so if I were doing it I would pair it with a built in chest (or stand up )freezer, a built in undercounter ice maker and a water cooler filter system with counter mounted dispenser, and at that point you may as well go with a co2 tank and carbonator to have on demand seltzer water.. (We installed a carbonator pump and co2 system in our kitchen, it is amazing, best seltzer water, from our filtered well system.) Our kitchen is half and half commercial-ish, we buy commercial small appliances like a 10 qt Hobart mixer, robot coupe 3hp food processor, Hobart meat slicer, doyon dough sheeter, etc.. Actually looking into our first 36 or 48" commercial stove now...

Here is a very helpful article on how to pick a high quality Engineered floor <- click For the product you mentioned are you ready to re oil the floor once its installed. It will require maintenance oil applications as well. Something to consider.