I have Reward Costa Testa.It immediately began cupping all over my house and replacing it would be a nightmare because we would have to basucally move out. It can’t be sanded enough to remove the cupped edges and it‘s a toxic process to stain and finish it with the UV finish so we are stuck. Very very, unhappy. I’ve now got flooring guys telling me that the 4mm wear layer is thin…made a huge mistake choosing this product. Also, it looks nothing like the sample on the website. Theres a ton of very white areas which also were not represented on the sample boards i borrowed.

ok, this is an area where I actually know something! I sold and spec'ed hardwood for a custom shop before my mommy-life. The information you are getting here is correct. Engineered floors will give you 1-2 refinishings ON A PERFECT SUBFLOOR. One of the issues that sometimes arises if there are inconsistanies in the height of your subfloor. Because there is thinner wood wearlayer (before you get to the engineered wood) there is the chance that you can damage the floor irreparably when you sand it. Now I only saw this saw this happen twice, once on a loft job and once in an older home. The loft was more subtle as it was over concrete, the old house more obvious as they were DIYers and picked engineered flooring to try to negate their irregular subfloor (they neglected to tell us that that was why they chose engineered, we would have talked them out of it had we seen the floor first) Neither of their claims to the manufacturer were fully settled because both times they did not follow the guidelines for floor prep. The loft job was also a materials only job for us with their GC laying the floors but he insisted he knew what he was doing. A good engineered floor will not be cheaper than most of your nail down options because the production costs are higher. Now having said that, GOOD engineered floors certainly have their place in places where you can't put traditional hardwood due to height restrictions or concrete subfloors. My boss had a great engineered floor in his basement and it survived a flood remarkably well (it was ash, Kahrs brand out of Scandinavia and one of the beefier engineered floors and one of the pioneers) My Grandmother also had a Kahrs floor in her ground suite condo and she LOVED it and I was impressed by the milling. I'm considering it for our basement because it's warmer and less echo-y than laminate There has been a lot of 2nd rate engineered flooring coming out of China and being labeled for all sorts of different companies. You should be able to tell an engineered sample because the layers are sandwiched together and the tongue will be a different wood than the top (showing) layer. Distressed finishes are usually more expensive because of the extra step in manufacturing to make it distressed. That is different than just getting a lower grade of hardwood like a rustic or tavern grade (in solid hardwood). Those grades have more character but they often don't carry a warranty and generally have a higher waste percentage. Another thing to think about---if you ever have to replace part of the floor, you will always be able to replicate 3/4" thick hardwood but engineered floors are more like tile, they change and get discontinued over the years. You could go pre-finished, save the hassle of site finishing but with the thicker wear-layer a 3/4" nail down floor offers. Only you will know if you can handle beveling or not. The changes in milling the last 10 years are huge. The bevel in your better milled wood is tiny. I like Canadian mills, Model or Mirage for pre-finished. Remember that if you ever re-finish, the bevel will disappear and you will, essentially have a site finished floor. One benefit that many people don't know about? With a prefinished tongue and grooved floor you can have a good installer cut out a single board (or more) from your floor if it gets damaged which is why we did a fair bit of pre-finished in new homes since inevitably we would get call-backs at move in to repair trade damage (@#$%^ plumbers and their big wrenches!). Prefinished hardwood deals the best with shinkage and expansion issues because the finish is on individual boards. Site finished floors are more labor intensive but the materials are cheaper (apples to apples). They are what many people consider the gold standard however there are more steps and you don't always know how it's going to look until it's done. There is more chance of finish contamination and trade damage during the rest of the building process. We refinished 100 year old floors. I loved the idea that there wasn't 4 generations of carpet and crap in the landfill. Definitely a forever floor and it can usually be re-sanded for all but the very worst water damage (think entire house under water for a few days) If you are going with a wide plank, keep in mind your species and humidity level (and your ability to keep humidity stable). The wider the plank (with 3/4" thick flooring), the more obvious shrinking and expanding will be. If you take a 2" wide board and it shrinks 2%, it isn't very noticeable. If you take a 6" wide board and it shrinks 2% the gaping will be more noticeable and in the case of a site finished floor *could* pull your finish apart. You'll need to find a flooring contractor in your area with lots of experience. Most of the best hardwood shops ONLY do hardwood. Beware of carpet shops and many of the big box stores in many instances. Make sure they are accredited with the NWFA (national wood flooring association) http://www.nwfa.org/member/ good luck!

Shock resistance and strength? That's what one sample board says. It's no wonder why consumers can get confused. I have never used those terms to describe Hickory, nor have I heard any hardwood guys use them. Sure Hickory is a tad harder than White Oak. 20 percent or so. But the variegated color is what stands out for those seeking a floor that shows the least amount of dings and dents over time. Simply put, they are harder to see. Remember, hardwood floors are made to walk on and not to treasure like a fine piece of furniture. Unfortunately far too many younger buyers set high expectations with sales pitches not helping matters.

I installed Duchateau engineered wood floors with a hardwax oil finish in the house we built this past year. We moved in in January of this year and we have 3 dogs and we allow shoes in the house. I am really happy with the floors so far. I did chose an aged character hand sculpted floor, which I think is important if you want to hide some wear and scratches. A perfect smooth finish will show every tiny scratch, but a floor with some character will hide a lot more and make it easier to touch up those scratches so they blend in. So far we have only been doing regular vacuuming and a weekly mop cleaning with the cleaning products sold by the manufacturer. My plan is to use the oil refresh product once a year in the heavily used areas/rooms in the house. The great thing with the oil is that you don't have to do the whole space and can just move furniture out of one area/room at a time. Unlike a refresh coat of poly that has to be applied all at the same time. I looked at a lot of engineered wood floors while doing my research! I looked at Mirage, but did not like the plastic shine on their poly finishes. I also didn't like their medium brown stains as they seemed to have a slight purple tone to them. The other hardwax oil floor that I considered was from Legno Bastone. I really liked their specs with a well finished product and longer board lengths, but they didn't offer a rustic/character finish.