range hood in-between upper cabinets?

16 years ago

All,

We were planning to buy KA gas range

(I posted here http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg0318371113850.html?1)

and Zephyr Savona 685 cfm hood

http://www.zephyronline.com/v2/products.php?col=europa&prod=11&prodname=Savona

There's Capital range on sale and we're seriously considering it. Now, we've been told we'd need good deep hood for the Capital.

Savona is decent hood, but it's not deep.

This hood will also go in between upper cabinets, so we wonder how the doors will open - will they bang against the hood..?

Somebody recommended 27" deep hood. That's the depth of the stove... Won't I bang my head on it when cooking?

Could you recommend any specific hoods, preferably not terribly expensive ;-) (we've spent too much money on everything already :0 )

Here's kitchen photo

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Comments (4)

ken_from_md
16 years ago
We have a 24" deep hood above our range with cabinets on either side. Go to the hardware aisle at Home Depot or Loews and look for a package of small round (1/4") clear self-adhesive rubber feet like you would put under an appliance. Put those on either side of the hood about an inch or so from the cabinet front, one near the bottom and one near the top. The cabinet door will rest against the feet when it is open.

Once on you will never notice them unless you are looking for them and your cabinets will not get scratched by your hood.
ci_lantro
16 years ago
Something to consider, in order to increase capture area on the front side, would be to bump a 24'' deep hood out from the wall 3''. Build a dummy wall that goes from the bottom edge of the hood up to the ceiling and cover the bottom edge of the bumpout with a strip of SS or backsplash material.

No matter what hood you choose, you're going to have a problem with the cabinet doors. The doors need to open away from the hood and not into it. I'm not seeing any inexpensive way to resolve this problem other than to remove the offending doors, install an upright divider in the cabs and use each half to the immediate sides of the hood as open shelving.

Another possibility to investigate might be knife hinges. You might be able to someway hinge the offending doors in the middle of the cab so that the doors would open away from the hood. (Swap the door currently on the left cab to use on the right cab so you don't have to change the knobs & patch the screw hole.) This solution, if it will work, messes up access to the cabinet somewhat but is preferable to big ugly scars on the doors & a dinged up hood. There may be a problem with the knife hinged door not having enough clearance to open because of the other door obstructing it.

Maybe you could post this prob over on the woodworking forum and get someone w/ lots more knowledge than I have to chime in for possible solutions?

Here is a link that might be useful: Knife Hinge example
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i've often wondered why there is no discussion of the cabinet sides' flammability. Hoods are the same width as the cooktop. Flammable material touching the hood is essentially right above the cooktop. This doesn't make sense to me. For 20 years I used to see my oak veneer on the wall cabinets right above the cooking surface, right next to the hood. Steam from cooking caused the veneer to go ugly on me. Yuk. But, if there had ever been a stovetop fire, this veneer would have either been damaged or worse yet, fed the fire and helped it spread. (!) Anyone? Bueller? Anyone? i've often wondered why there is no discussion of the fact that hoods are usually not container-shaped. They LOOK very very container-shaped when seen from a distance, but the filter (baffles) are not recessed into an upside down cup that would contain a few gallons of fast-rising smoke. This is not helpful in a real fire, but it IS helpful in everyday operation = and that IS the main goal, to keep greasy smoke inside the canopy and the exhaust system (not allow it to spread throughout the house). Wok and grill cooking produces bursts of smoke. One can always overcompensate by having the blower suck more CFM's but then this forces the house to provide a lot more make-up air, which forces the AC or heating system to work harder... and then this forces people to spend a few thousand more for make-up air compensating systems.... (!) Anyone? Bueller? Anyone? Hth.
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@jclee77 @shead I found this product today that is intended for this purpose; have the same issue: https://www.build.com/windster-we30/s985450?uid=2432737 2" x 6" x 30" metal filler to help push forward range hood. (Product is Windster WE30 or WE36, for 30" or 36" wide ranges, in case the link dies). Seems to be available from numerous sites.
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ci_lantro
16 years ago
Great Idea, Ken!
vmolesg
16 years ago
We have exactly the same situation, and solved it exactly the way Ken did, with clear soft plastic bumpers. I never notice them on the black hood unless I look for them.

One think to consider, though, is exactly how your doors/hinges work. On ours, the doors never move outside the width of the cabinet. A different type of hinge, though, might have the hinged-edge of the door moving beyond the edge of the cabinet body. This won't work if the hood is flush with the cabinet body.

range hood in-between upper cabinets?

Comments (4)

ken_from_md

ci_lantro

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