I would consider two sinks and other considerations (e.g. more separation for the toilet) more important than two showers, but if taking showers together is something you and your spouse enjoy, then feel free to just stop reading now and ignore this comment. :-) But assuming you are still reading... I just think it's much more common for both people to be using sinks at the same time (e.g. in the AM, husband shaving, wife washing her face) than for both to be showering at the same time. I also use the bathroom sink to hand-wash delicate and/or private clothing, so having an extra sink is handy for avoiding "sink gridlock." I agree that if you're doing a master bath it should have either a bathtub or (and/or) a more luxurious shower, not a cramped little shower stall, but I think you could get that effect without using six feet by three feet of primo bathroom real estate. How fixed is the toilet location? I mean, is that where the stack is, and would it be a major hassle to plumb it so the toilet could be a couple of feet one way or the other? If there's a little flexibility, try this: (1) Use a pocket door between bedroom and bath. (2) Rotate the toilet so its back is to the bedroom wall and it's in that corner where the sink is shown in your plan. (3) Build a pony wall, or possibly a full-height wall, to the right side of the toilet so it's not visible from the bedroom. You could even fully enclose it if you wanted, building two full-height walls and using a folding door that the toilet would face--or for that matter even a curtain--though it wouldn't be spacious in there. (4) Scoot the shower all the way up to the wall between bathroom and closet, and make it 4'x3' or 4' x 3'6" instead of 5'11"x2'10". (Widening it will make more sense when I explain the makeup vanity in step 5). The area of the 2-person shower on your plan is about 17.5 square feet, and that's for two people; changing it as I'm suggesting will make it a one-person shower with either 12 sq ft or 14 sq ft of space, so it actually only costs you about 1/6 to 1/3 of the space the shower occupies on your current plan, and it will still feel luxuriously large to the one person who's using it. (5) To make room for the wider shower, rotate the makeup vanity 90 degrees so it's facing the bedroom instead of the closet. This lets you scoot the closet door over enough to widen the shower, though it would likely require either a slightly narrower makeup vanity or a slightly narrower door to the bedroom. (6) And now, at last, put two 18" deep x 24" or 30" wide sink vanities side by side along that bottom wall (the one the toilet and sink are on in your current plan), down in the corner that you liberated by making the shower smaller. Store the linens in the sink vanities. Make the shower wall facing these sinks glass so it doesn't feel cramped when you're standing by the sinks. (It won't be cramped--you'll have about 30" between the edge of the sink and the shower--but a glass wall would make it feel even more open.) If you make the shower 4x3 instead of 4'x3'6", you might also have room for a small linen tower right in the corner where the shower meets the closet wall. But your main linen storage could be in one of the sink vanities.

Nice plan but a few things you might want to think about before finalizing: 1) This is a very complex shaped house design (i.e., lots of exterior corners). Be aware that the least expensive home to build is a basic rectangle and that every variation from the rectangle increases costs. All those juts in-and-out increase costs per square foot because they result in a higher ratio of exterior walls to interior square footage which means more framing material, more insulation, a more complicated roof-line and foundation, etc. Not saying you should change a thing... just thought you ought to be prepared for the sticker shock you may receive when you start getting bids. 2) You kitchen island is positioned so that any dirty dishes in the sink will be on display to anyone in the Great Room. No problm if you're the kind of housekeeper who keeps the sink area spic and span at all times. Me? I would want the island turned so that the raised section helped to hide my sink from the great room. But that would pretty much require an entire reshaping of the kitchen and thus the rest of the plan. So, you will probably want to keep it as is. 3) No windows in the kitchen itself? Patio deck doors and great room windows may be rather far away to provide much natural light for kitchen. You don't mention the direction your house faces and, if the wall that the fridge is against is a north wall, you might not want any windows there. But, in that case, I would question placing your screen porch on that side of the house. 4) The laundry room and mud room seem a bit cramped...especially for a home with three kids. Since the garage juts forward anyway, unless you're already running up against lot-line setbacks, consider pulling the snout of the garage forward another couple of feet and then extending the mud room and laundry room forward an equal distance into the garage to enlarge them. The cost to do so should be relatively minor compared to overall cost to build because, although you would be adding a bit of square footage, you would not be increasing the complexity of the design in any way. 5) Make ABSOLUTELY certain that your pantry is wide enough to accomodate the freezer you want to put in it... not just the one you have already. Measure the depth of the freezer you want to purchase and then add about three inches. A freezer can't sit right up against the back wall. You have to leave room for air circulation and you don't want the freezer sticking out so far into the pantry aisle that you can hardly squeeze past it. I thought I had left plenty of room for a freezer in our mudroom/pantry but freezers today are bigger than my old one. Our new one just BARELY fits. I have just exactly enough space between the freezer and the counter across the aisle to fully open the freezer door... nor an inch to spare. It works - but if my pantry/mudroom were 6 inches wider, it would feel a whole lot more spacious! Also, speaking of freezer doors, you probably don't want to put the freezer right up against the side wall or you may not be able to fully open the freezer door. It needs swinging room. Finally, make sure that at least one of your pantry doors is wide enough to get the freezer in and out of the pantry! We had to have the interior door of our pantry reframed to 36" wide b/c our builder installed a 32" exterior door on the mudroom/pantry instead of the 36" wide one specified on the plans... and we didn't notice THAT error until after we fired him and took over the build ourselves. (By that time it would have cost us thousands to reframe the exterior wall, get a new exterior door, have the cabinets on the exterior walls remade to fit the reduced space, etc., etc., etc., GRRRR!!!) 6) Similar issue to above...how much room is there between your refrigerator and your kitchen island? Unless you get a "counter depth" fridge, your new fridge could stick out as much as a foot beyond the edge of the surrounding countertop. 7) Have you thought about furniture placement yet? Bedroom 2 looks a bit problematic b/c the best position for a double bed seems to be up against the bathroom wall. But that would mean one would have to walk around the bed to get from closet to bath. Perhaps you could flip the bathroom vertically so that the tub is against the front wall and the bathroom door is close to the closet door. 8) In bedroom 3, would the door fit on that little angled section of wall? If so, I think you'd find it easier to place a full-sized bed and other furniture in the room. Besides, that would give you a nice section of wall space in the landing/hallway for a bench or maybe some book cases. 9) Not sure I agree with zookeeper93 about combining the closet and laundryroom (especially not if you can increase the size of the laundry room.) It can be nice to have a separate closet that isn't subjected to laundry room lint. And I definitely would not want my freezer in the laundry room area. Guests helping me cook sometimes need to access the freezer when my laundry room is simply not presentable. LOL! 10) I do agree with zookeeper93 tho that the angles in your master closet are going to limit the actual useable hanging space. Unfortunately, I don't think you have room enough for a door into the commode room if you try to just straighten out the wall by the commode room. I can't tell what those two little niches are between the master closet and the master bedroom (seats?, inset bookcases? art niche's?). If it were me, I would get rid of them and incorporate that area into my master closet. I would also swap where the shower and commode are. I think that would give you enough room for a closet with nice-sized USEABLE his/hers sections. Maybe something like this with a pocket door to the master bath: BTW, you need to be very careful when using pocket doors to make sure that you're not planning to attach closet rods or the supports for something like an Elfa closet system to the walls where the pocket door "hollow space" is. Remember, there are no STUDS in that space and you need STUDS to support the weight of clothing hanging on closet rods.

My current house is "reversed" as well. It's 3-stories/five levels to maximize the ocean views. First level is the foyer/garage, half-flight up is the master facing the ocean, half up from that are two guest rooms facing the street, half up is a story-and-half great room facing the ocean (over the master bedroom footprint). Half-flight up from that is the kitchen, dining room and library, all with ocean and street views. Every morning, looking at the sunrise and dolphins in the waves I know it's worth it to carry groceries all the way up!

First your questions: - You'll use the front door for your daily entrance? Do you have anything under the "up" stairs? Could you do a small-but-expensive-to-build bench under the staircase? Something with hooks instead of a real closet? And then you could make the linen closet, which is around the corner, a small coat closet. I think this is one of the main problems in this house -- it's going to be a daily hassle, and it's going to be in plain sight -- but the real answer is that you need more space by the door. - No, I don't think the front door to the kitchen is too far for unloading groceries. But I do think the pantry inadequate for a family, and with the sink on that end of the island, you don't really have a spot to set down your grocery bags while you sort and put away. In fact, I don't like the whole kitchen. Oh, It'll LOOK great -- angled island overlooking the main living space -- but you have little storage (the angles in the island are space hogs) and the layout isn't functional (too much empty space in the middle, which means empty steps). The real issue is that kitchens work best when they're rectangular (more wall space, which equals more counterspace ... and this one's a square). Lavender Lass' layout with a square island is a big improvement. I wonder if it wouldn't be even better if it were "flip flopped" with the dining area. That would place the dining room, which is usually neater than the kitchen, dead-ahead of the front door, and the kitchen seems better in that more tucked-away spot. While I'm mentioning Lavender's plan, I think her master bath /closet layout is top-notch. I was thinking that space was too small, but she nailed it. If you want a tub, you could lose the sink against the left-hand wall and put one in that spot. - Before you declare the dining room bigger than necessary, keep in mind that your only back-door access is through the dining room, and those bar stools that back up to the table eat up more space than you might imagine. And as your kids grow, they'll require more space. I think it's fine, but not oversized. - Piano -- no clue. - I'd put the TV above a fireplace. If you plan for this, you can make the fireplace on the short side (no lovely hearth the right height for seating), the angle won't be a problem, and if you go with gas you'll have more control over the heat. - Sewing machine -- I'd put it in the guest room. Maybe a craft /sewing table inside the guest closet? That way it could be hidden by doors. Of course, you should plan ahead for good lighting, if you go into the closet. And my own thoughts: - How is this plan roughly 52x52? It appears to be about 1.5Xs as long as it is deep. - I would bring the master bath, dining room, and hall bath "out" 2' to meet the kitchen's bump-out. Bump-outs are expensive to build, and simplifying the footprint would give you a bit more space ... for about the same price. Using the same thought process, I would bring the front door forward to meet the edge of the staircase ... and I would make the great room's bump out ONE bump instead of two staggered bumps. - Since the great room is on the cozy side, I'd make the space in the "indent" a built-in windowseat with bookshelves or drawers or baskets underneath. It would look fantastic, and it would provide the space for toys that you want. - I'm a bit concerned about the entrance to the master bedroom. Can you get big furniture through that turn? And will the dining room furniture block the doorway? My kids (and my husband) are bad about leaving their dining room chairs pulled out from the table. - I assume the baby will eventually move upstairs, and the downstairs room will become the guest room. That's a good plan, though I see that you're struggling for space in other areas -- you need more pantry space, you need a closet by the front door. I don't know that I'd be willing to devote so much space to occasional guests when the family needs it for everyday life. I like the above suggestion to build in a Murphy bed. I'd consider making the baby's room into more of a den ... make it 2/3 of the size of the current room, allowing for a closet at the front door (though the staircase is still a problem), and this can be a place for your piano as well as the murphy bed. Plus, with an open floor plan like this, it's nice to have a small away-room somewhere. I think a den or a flex-space like this would serve your family better than four full-fledged bedrooms. You could use it as a baby's room now, but I personally wouldn't have any problem putting the baby upstairs as early as six months or so. And realistically, since you don't yet own the lot, if the baby's already here, he or she will be at least a year old before this house exists. Upstairs isn't far away. Another thought: If your main purpose in doing the guest-room-downstairs is to have a baby's room for the next couple years, I'd ask whether this is the right time to build. If you wait a couple years 'til the baby is no longer a baby-baby, would you be more able to let go of that downstairs room /let that space go towards a larger family space instead of a temporary nursery? - If you go with more of a den, consider whether you need the full bath in this position. I just had a shower replaced in my girls' hall bath, and it was not quite 3K. We're not talking about pocket change. - The four-year old's closet is SMALL. Good-sized closets mean the kids' rooms stay clean. I'd look at moving the closet to the other wall; it could be larger, and it would provide a sound barrier between the two rooms. - I'd lose the double sinks in the kids' upstairs bedroom. They'll never use them at the same time anyway, and two sinks means you give up drawer space underneath. - The laundry room looks okay, but if you could make it a scant 1' wider, you could have floor-to-ceiling shelves across from the washer/dryer -- what wonderful storage that would be. It might also give you some folding space. I'd give up the sink next to the washer/dryer (I have never had a sink in the laundry room and don't really know what I'd do with it) in favor of a place to stack baskets of dirties waiting for the machine.