Floorplan review (4BR, 2000 sq ft)
9 years ago
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- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
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Floor plan review please - Almost finalized - Yippee!
Comments (22)Hi everyone. Momto3 - This floor plan is indeed beautiful, as the pictures of the finished house show. And some of the suggestions given by others were little nuggets of gold to keep in mind! MyDreamHome, I love your laundry room - I have not come across one that is in that small a space and yet works as efficiently as yours does. The garbage bins for laundry are a wonderful idea! I too fold in my laundry in the laundry room as soon as items come out of the dryer - otherwise they need ironing, and I am not into that (unless it is part of my quilting - that is a different story). For those many people who were enquiring about how to make this large house smaller (I believe it is 5,000 square feet, give or take a couple hundred): some great suggestions were made about making some rooms smaller (ie - do you need a 30+ by 15+ playroom, and a 16+ by 14+ breakfast area? We would all like it, but...). However I have two other suggestions as well. This house, built as a single-story home, has a huge footprint. That means a huge basement or slab, and a huge roof surface. Furthermore, the roof will be quite high, simply because of the area it has to cover. So... You could consider moving some or all of the bedrooms upstairs, and while this may not reduce the square footage of the home, it will reduce the cost of building significantly (the cost per square foot will go down significantly because this area does not need its own basement/slab or roof). For example, if you put 1500 square feet of bedrooms/bathrooms upstairs, you will reduce your footprint and roof area by that amount - the size of a small-mid size house! With some interesting jut-outs, dormers and some sloped ceilings, you can make a very interesting as well as a light and airy second floor. In fact, a friend of mine did just this - they planned a large single-level house, and the architect suggested that with almost no changes to the roof other than a couple of dormers, they could put in a large master suite and two additional bedrooms and another bath on the second floor. They agreed, and then re-envisioned the main floor to keep the footprint the same size as before, giving them about 1/3 more living space for very little extra money. Just one word of warning: it will impact the layout of the roof trusses, and perhaps even the type of truss used, so that you have full use of the available height. So include this in the plan before you start building - even if you plan to finish the space later (another advantage of reducing the footprint - you can finish off the other levels later if money is an issue and yet you expect your family to grow). Similarly if you build the house with a basement and your land has just a bit of a slope to it, with some forethought you can have a walk-out basement with large windows and French or sliding doors...or at worst, finished rooms with large windows. Then you can put some of the bedrooms and the play room downstairs and still have them bright and airy. If you live where you have to do a basement anyway, you double the size of your (single story) house by utilizing the basement. A current trend in my area is for builders to use 9-10 foot ceilings in the basement to ensure that the area is not claustrophobic (and it allows for bigger windows if the house sits a bit higher). Often with a bit of landscape planning, enough of a slope can be created when the footings and the basement are laid down. Again here, if you plan to finish the basement (now or later), give it some thought so that you do not limit your options when you do finish it. For example, you may want to use longer or different types of beams to support the main floor to reduce the number of posts in the basement. And you may want to ensure that your posts are no closer that 12 or 15 feet apart - so that you likely won't have a post in the middle of where you would like to have a bedroom. It is also important to have a plan so that you can make the best use of windows, and put larger ones in if possible. Every bedroom must have an egress window (which is not very big), so don't plan on sticking a bedroom in the front of the house unless you are prepared to have windows at the front, etc. Plumbing is easier if it is roughed in now as well, although if you change your mind, it can be moved easily enough (but it costs $$). Has anyone tried either of these options? I would draw out a sample, but I don't currently have a couple of free hours - sorry... PS - sorry for the length of this post......See Morefloor plan, please review
Comments (6)I'd put a garage door on the back of the garage for the one-car spot. You say you're going to use it as a workshop, but someone else in the future may want to use it as an actual garage, and it would be useful for that person to be able to enter from the back /drive through. Also, if you ever fence the back yard, it'll be super-easy for yard people, repair people or you yourself to drive through and access the back yard without going through a piddly little garage gate. Additionally, it'd be nice for you to be able to open a whole wall of your workshop and get some nice breeze going through the space. I like the relationship of the kitchen /dining room /living room . . . but it'd be nice if you could move some things around and get a real window into the kitchen. Could some of these things be sandwiched between the garage and the kitchen? I would consider opening the pantry /laundry up into one larger, more versitile room, with the only doorway being the one just as you come in from the garage. I'd also add a pass-through (perhaps accessed through a small sliding door?) from the pantry to the kitchen counter so you could go into the pantry and set your things on the counter rather than needing to make multiple trips back to the kitchen. I'd think twice about that little dip that allows your refrigerator to be counter-depth. First, that little dip will cost more than you might imagine, but even if you're willing to pay it, having your refrigerator flush with the countertops means that the doors will not open "all the way", and you'll have trouble getting big things in/out and you'll have trouble removing the shelves to clean them -- I live with this problem right now, and although it's an aggravation rather than a full-blown crisis, it's something I'm planning to avoid in our next house. Since your master bedroom shares a wall with the living room (and probably the wall that'll hold the TV), be sure to plan for some good sound insulation. I do not care for the master bath. It's rather "choppy" with lots of little things here and there, and (unless I'm reading the tiny words wrong) you have a nice window in your closet but no natural light in the bathroom? I would be concerned about the lack of a tub in a house of this size; although everyone doesn't use a tub, many future buyers would expect one. Yes, I see you have a tub in the other downstairs bedroom, but that doesn't "make up for" the lack of a tub in the master. I'd re-think an upstairs loft. You're looking at a very open floorplan already, and a loft provides only a little visual privacy and no acoustical privacy. Don't get me wrong: I like the look of a loft, but once we rented a house at the lake that included a loft . . . and I knew I'd never want one. With such an open floor plan, I 'd think you'd want a spot where a person could find a little quiet space away from the rest of the family. Finally, I'm sure you know that this is going to be a very expensive-to-build house. A number of things are driving up the price without any real function: For example, consider all the "jogs" around the perimeter. The one in the garage stands out: If you make the single-car garage just a touch wider, you'll have more space in your workshop AND you'll eliminate that expensive corner. The slight indentation at the front door is another example; given that it's under a portico, the indentation will essentially be lost. You can bump your entry way out a touch -- just enough to make the front wall flat and flush. These are two places where you can literally spend less money and get more square footage. This house will also require a very complicated roofline, which adds big bucks. Smoothing out the edges would save you there as well....See More1940s Colonial floor plan (w/ mid 2000s addition & reno)
Comments (4)If the kitchen walls are not load-bearing, you could easily remove them and redesign the kitchen to include a pantry and banquette seating by slightly expanding the kitchen in one or both directions. The kitchen design needs help anyway. A redesign would also give you a open, flow-through space in one or both directions. If the walls are load bearing, you could substitute appropriately sized new beams and re-design/expand the kitchen. 4,000 SF +/- is a lot of house to heat and cool, considering that the air leakage of windows and walls is probably high and the insulation remaining in walls and roof is probably low. Might want to consider some rehab to make the house more energy efficient. That would include checking the age and condition of all heating and cooling equipment and the water heater. Good luck with your project....See MoreFloor Plan Review
Comments (35)I’m not sure were you are located, or the architects you have in your market, but if you were my client I’d recommend you go ahead a get this drawn up at a Schematic Design level so you can make sure you square footages and basic room dimensions are right. Walls have thicknesses and can eat up square footage ... and at 1,800 to 2,000 sf, it will go quickly. I’d also recommend a quick 3-d study model of the house to get an idea if what it looks like - that may impact your. If you have really good contractors on your market, they can give you a ball-park construction estimate based on those drawings too. Keep in mind, construction cost go up 3-5% every year. In my market (north carolina), i would charge about $1k for that kind of preliminary work. The PowerPoint drawing and thoughts you shared here is all I’d need to get started - do you are in good shape to take the next step. Here is an example of the 3-d model you should be considering: https://www.stevenjohnsonra.com/designprocess I can’t express enough how a simple drafted plan and a 3-d model will REALY help you start to understand your project - and will give you the next 3 years to think about it in critical terms rather than just “thinking” it works....See MoreRelated Professionals
Keansburg Architects & Building Designers · Lakeland South Home Builders · Bartlesville General Contractors · Browns Mills General Contractors · Erie General Contractors · Fridley General Contractors · Greensburg General Contractors · Jeffersonville General Contractors · Makakilo General Contractors · Monroe General Contractors · Pine Hills General Contractors · Reisterstown General Contractors · Saint Paul General Contractors · University City General Contractors · Waterville General Contractors- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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