"Grinding", that might be a bit tight (by my definition of "grindingly tight"). There really should not be any "tension" on the feeler gauge at all. What we are trying to establish is the proper amount of CLEARANCE or empty space between the end of the valve and the rocker arm. You really want the feeler gauge blade to slide very easily when it is withdrawn from the rocker/valve juncture, and it should slide back into the same without your having to force it or manually push the valve open to get it back into the space. Or in other words, you want the open space to be exactly the same amount as the thickness of the feeler gauge blade. If you can actually feel the drag or resistance against the blade, you are too tight (too little gap). Do this: Turn the engine while watching the valve action. When you turn the engine so that the intake valve has been pushed down as far as it will go, measure the height of the valve spring from the cylinder head up to the top of the valve spring washer (use a small pocket ruler). Carefully read the dimension and record the value. Next, turn the engine until you see the exhaust valve move down as far as it will go. Measure the same way as before and compare the 2 values. The distance should be identical (or within 1/32" inch) for both valves. If you measure a difference of 1/8" or so between the 2 values, the camshaft is worn out (a possibility on 31 series engines).

Bluestar emailed me back. They said its either the ignitor (glowplug) or a valve issue that controls the gas. However since the ignitor isn't glowing its probably the ignitor. It sucks that since my range is 2.5 years old it is out of warranty. It will cost $68 for the ignitor, not including s/h. They also suggested I get a new "updated" oven floor to replace mine with the broken baffle. That will be $168 without s/h, which I'm sure will cost a lot since its heavy.

Exactly, azinoh. Microwaves do cause interference, An audio signal like Skype doesn't take much bandwidth but any interference can cause a disconnect. Here's some info lifted from a Cisco webpage "In reality, the many other types of devices emitting in the unlicensed band dwarf the number of 802.11 devices. These devices include microwave ovens, cordless phones, Bluetooth devices, wireless video cameras, outdoor microwave links, wireless game controllers, Zigbee devices, fluorescent lights, WiMAX, and so on. Even bad electrical connections can cause broad RF spectrum emissions. These non-802.11 types of interference typically don't work cooperatively with 802.11 devices, and can cause significant loss of throughput. In addition, they can cause secondary effects such as rate back-off, in which retransmissions caused by interference trick the 802.11 devices into thinking that they should use lower data rates than appropriate. "

Hi Derby, I've dug, divided and replanted peonies in the spring after they've started growing multiple times before--it should've only impacted their growth that same spring. The fact that it grew back at your mom's and bloomed already certainly indicates that the pieces you planted should've, also. Spindly and weak stems could indicate too much shade--you said they're in full sun. Also could be planted too deep but you already said your replanted at the same depth (I'd make sure it wasn't more than 2 inches deep, though). You said the root was around a foot across, how deep was the plug that you took out? A peony of that size should probably have feeder roots that should've been around 18 inches deep. If you didn't get enough feeder roots to support the growing eyes your plants could still be recovering. Also could be getting too much moisture from being in water retentive soil, they hate wet feet. Are you in a humid area? Could they be getting mildew from watering too much on the leaves? I wish we could offer a sure fire solution but without seeing the roots and where/how they're planted we can only guess based on our experiences. If your plants are getting sun and are not in really wet soil I'd just give them a good, organic fertilizer, maybe the bulb booster one Kousa recommended last summer, when they start growing this year. Water at the ground as needed while they're actively growing. Established peonies don't need a lot of supplemental watering--they're actually quite xeric. I normally only water mine in the evening if I see them drooping, they'll perk right back up that same night. If you get a lot of buds you might want to think of pinching some of them out, just to give the most likely bloomers a better chance of making it to full flower. As your peonies emerge this spring please post pictures, maybe someone will recognize a problem that you can easily resolve. I'd certainly try the fertilizer, judging from her beautiful pictures of peonies last year the one Kousa uses works well. And if this is the spring that they make it to full bloom just because it's the right time we all like to see pretty peony pictures, anyway!